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Der Gentleman - an interview with Bernhard Roetzel

ManofKent

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Gruto;2125722 said:
For members who understand German here's a new interview with Bernhard Roetzel on his book Der Gentleman: http://www.stilmagazin.de/bernhard-r...-im-interview/

He tells about the birth of book, his interest classic dressing and a lot more. He also "reveals" tThanks - sadly my german isn't up to the task, but the original title makes sense. 'He has a good grasp of the different preferences around the western world. more so than most authors.
 

Gherkins

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And this is why I don't read german sites on style or clothing: no fun.
Everything is *sooooo* important and serious.
 

Gruto

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Originally Posted by Gherkins
And this is why I don't read german sites on style or clothing: no fun. Everything is *sooooo* important and serious.
True, he is no talkshow host, though I think the seriousness is partly due to the non-professional interview set-up. Still, the interview is interesting. Roetzel has written a classic on classic men's clothes and maybe the best selling book on the subject worldwide.
 

Grayland

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Originally Posted by Gherkins
And this is why I don't read german sites on style or clothing: no fun. Everything is *sooooo* important and serious.
What was that SNL skit with Mike Myers doing a German TV show...Sprockets?
 

bowtielover

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It would be better if it had subtitles or something.
 

dopey

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My favorite review has already been posted:

Thought I could also create a new thread to Bernhard Roetzel's Gentleman: A Guide to Timeless fashion, as the title of my last thread with 35 comments is now obsolete.
I've been on them since Thursday Nite - when only a few shops in this great city had received a copy, and she told me she would call me when they pack up their latest shipments ....
In addition to what I have said before, I will say just a little bit more in the moment. This is quite a lot for the first edition, but as I said, I do not have too much access to it and who does not hold, but now I am thrilled that the second official edition. Anyway, Roetzel is obviously extremely opinionated, but also a great sense of humor and very little charm in his letter. As a remark, as if you only $ 600 for new clothes in an entire year, he should spend it on two $ 300 pairs of shoes, I imagine, he writes this to build a strong, but not to be taken completely literally. ... I like his final statement on the pages on "Home Comfort."
Well, Roetzel goes on and on specific designer / Schneider / companies I am sure most of us in the U.S. - And I'm not totally ignorant about the men's history or current decision makers and styles - are simply not compatible with. Around and I read a lot. Me too, the man has his headquarters in Berlin and really seems to favor the British in particular, and then the French and the Germans and Italians and Americans occasionally. But I find it hard to understand how many names he did not mention even once in the entire book. At least I will be by the index, if nothing else, although I notice that there are some names here and there not being indexed.
It does not include, for example, Georgio Armani or Calvin Klein - two heavyweights in the men's fashion at least at the end of the 20th Century. Perry Ellis (I know - the man himself has been a while, but this is a book of many historical content ).... No Ferragamo Sergio (Italian), Bill Blass (American), Ted Baker (UK), or Arnys or Leonard (French) - all established houses. What about the famous Statue of Liberty of London? I know they are very important for design history in general, and of course, women wear, but they have done a lot with Mr. segment as well and are very representative. In fact, the cotton tie not treated. How about Robert Talbott or Countess Mara for relationships? Talbott is currently in the front and has been for a long time.
What is trendy, but very popular and the latest fashions in the world Michael Kors, Tom Ford, or, for more, Tommy Hilfiger? Diesel? Nautica? Aquascutum - another very old and established companies in London is often compared to Burberry (although with far smaller admittantly production and thus perhaps more than elite? Favourbrook for the West?
Hugo Boss, J. Crew? Roetzel Is not believe their clothing "gentlemanlike?" He has in some coarser type clothing, like jeans, and he is entitled to recognition Casual Men go from time to time - in style. Eddy Hardy - his line, which I guess could be a bit much for someone like Roetzel to swallow, but of course, recognition of the immense popularity even in passing.
I'm sure Roetzel knows something about all these companies, if not much more than many. Will he say that they have not contributed to it in his book? Their clothes are not for men? He simply did not like their lines? All of the above?
Borsalino gets a few nice words, but very little attention, as many writers seem to think the company is (or at least was) one of the largest in the world hatmakers. No mention of pilot or bomber jackets - can not a man wear?
Are you saying Roetzel only so much space? But he devotes pages and pages of some obscure companies and designers. I know his general perspective is German, and that makes a big difference when he writes of how widespread certain things are and how we see little else. But still ....
But I am very pleased with the book, but just wanted to air some thoughts I had ....

It focuses on every case, what is now "top end", is not exactly strong in the general philosophy. He makes statements such as bedroom slippers are all leather or velvet, if, as we all know, many in the department stores and many other stores are not. I'm sure the view, however, Roetzel, there is a kind of balance here, with some of his comments from the realization that sometimes, occasionally, there might be good reasons, not much.

If it is found not to Roetzel Aquascutum once, as an alternative to Burberry, but it is not in the index.
An example of the elitism Roetzel (something which I admire), and perhaps also a great indication of his perspective, when stationed in Germany, two pages he devotes fully "cuff link" has not yet been mentioned, if the type mainly used in U.S. - The rotary type. The statement: "A cuff link consists of two identical objects ...." he completely ignores the swivel type. Ironically, however, on p. 325, in the discussion formalwear, it displays a box with studs and cufflinks, including the swing-type, and he does not recognize as such.
Despite this small photo, is the fact Roetzel is not even recognizing the existence of the swivel cufflinks indication he does not believe a "gentleman" would, or should they wear? Are they rare in Europe? For this I need help. I do not remember what I have seen, when in London in 2007, but I do not remember that surprised to see no or almost no swivel cufflinks. I do know that every trade that I about new cufflinks offers at least some of the swivel type - no matter how exclusive the business. And many, many shops do not have to duplicate all, unless perhaps the silk knot type.
Funny, as it contains a photo of swivel cufflinks in the formalwear section of all places. Makes me wonder if it is a mistake that someone selected the image and Roetzel not too much attention ....

I see Roetzel writes something to the effect of 'tuxedos are all wrong for weddings. " Two years ago I was heavily in several long threads discussing possibilities, and I of what to wear at the wedding of my daughter. It should be in the United States, beginning before 5 p.m. at a large synagogue, and continued for admission to a prestigious private club building (the former mansion). It was never a question of wearing a tuxedo - all questions had to do with style, accessories, etc. In these months, I gradually on the basis of the comments here, as well as books and gradual modernization kept my ensemble, and finally with a great outfit that I am finally in all its details.
Anyway, one of you - I believe in Europe - the same remark about tuxedos (ie tuxedo or suit, etc.) as a taboo at weddings, and I actually mentioned a few others, as they are in fact traditionally good tone for this type of wedding in the USA. About every wedding I ever attended with some formalities (usually later in the day) had the wedding principals and male participants), and sometimes with the guests dressed in tuxedos. Anyway, I wonder if this party, the remark that he had directly from the 1990 edition Roetzel.
I thought I could also create a new thread on Bernhard Roetzel 's distinguished: eternal fashion leaders, and the title of another thread with 35 comments from now on until now.
We have been through it on Thursday Nite - when one of the few large stores in the metropolitan region has received a copy, and they told me when I described the dissolution of the last shipments ....
In addition to what I have said I have to say, a little more from now. This applies to a large extent on the first edition, but, as I said, I do not have much access to them, but not in the possession of now I am very pleased once again to the second edition of the official. In any case, it is very clear, Roetzel fully, but a sense of humor and completely in some of the charm of his writings. If by such statements as if it was only a 600-dollars in spending on new clothes for the whole year to spend two of the 300 pairs of shoes, and imagine that the writing of this strong, but the point to be taken literally are not quite .... I also like that the final statement on the pages of "Rest Home".
Now, go and some Roetzel Designer / Schneider / company I am sure that most of us in the United States - I am not totally ignorant of history or menswear manufacturer, and current methods - is simply not aware. I read a lot. I also know the man with headquarters in Berlin, and it seems, in fact, for Britain, especially, and then the French, German, Italians and Americans sometimes. But I find it hard to understand how many of the names are not mentioned even once in each book. At least I will be reminded that, if nothing else, but I am aware that there are some names from here and there, not indexed.
Not included, for example, Georgio Armani or Calvin Klein - two heavyweights in the right man, at least at the end of the 20th. Perry Ellis (I know - the man himself, have a little time, but this book with a lot of historical content ).... Not Ferragamo, Sergio (Italian), and Bill Blass (American), Ted Baker (UK), or Arnys or Leonard (French) - is embedded in all houses. What about the famous London? I know they are very important in shaping the story in general, and of course the wearing of women, but they have a lot with men and clothes but also very representative. In fact, the cotton and tie is not all. What's with Robert Talbot or Countess Mara ties? Talbot is currently in the first line, and for a long time.
But what about the modern and very popular in the world, was recently in Michael Kors, Tom Ford, or for a longer period of time, Tommy Hilfiger? Diesel? Nautica? Aquascutum - another very old and is often compared to London Burberry (admittantly The production of much smaller, and therefore should be considered and may be more elite? Favourbrook for the West?
Hugo Boss, J. Crew? Not the clothes Roetzel "gentlemanlike?" What some of the entry of coarse type of clothing such as jeans, and he does not claim to the Lords do not go fishing from time to time - in style. The hands of Hardy - a line that I guess it could be too much for someone like Roetzel to swallow, though of course the vast popularity and recognition in the death.
I am sure Roetzel know everything about all these companies, if not a lot about a lot. Hu said he had not enough to make a contribution to the book? Clothing is not a gentlemen? He simply does not like lines? All of the above?
Borsalino some nice words, but very little attention to the consideration of a number of books seems to be thinking in the society (or at least was) one of the largest hatmakers most parts of the world. He has not the pilot or the suicide vests - men can not carry a?
Roetzel you have only to say that much space? But after that for pages and pages of some obscure companies and designers. I understand the overall perspective is German, and this makes a difference when he writes of how some common things and how rarely seen. But still ....
But I am very very pleased with the book, but I just wanted to air some of the ideas I had ....

It is sure that for what today as a "top", without access to a high precision in philosophy. He makes the data, such as bedroom slippers, leather and velvet, in which the whole or, as we all know, in many shops and many shops are not. I am confident, but Roetzel is that there is a kind of balance here, with some of his utterances, and admits that sometimes, in some cases there may be good reasons for not spending much.

The Roetzel Aquascutum does not refer to a time, as an alternative for Burberry, but not in the index.
Example Roetzel 's elite), to the extent to which I admire), and perhaps also of great significance from the perspective in Germany, and two sides completely, "a slap in the link" Why not even remember when an overwhelming kind in the United States - house type. The statement: "a slap in the face similar connection consists of two things ... he totally ignored the pole type. It is ironic, but on page 325, in formalwear debate, it shows the box with cufflinks and studs, which in Indeed, the type of rod, and he does not recognize them as such.
Despite this small picture is the fact Roetzel not even the existence of the pole cufflinks that he did not believe that the "gentleman" or must be picked up? It is not rare in Europe? I do not need such support. I can not remember when I have seen in London in 2007, but I do not remember all that surprised to see, or read almost no house cufflinks. I know that I have any business to the new cufflinks at least some type of pole - no matter how the business claimed from. And many, many shops, there is a double in each of them, unless perhaps a kind of silk knots.
How funny, not a picture of cufflinks in the formalwear Pole, of all places. Makes me wonder whether this is an oversight by the person responsible for image and Roetzel not too much attention ....

I do not see what Roetzel writes about the impact of "all the wrong Tuxedos for weddings." Two years ago, was heavily involved in several threads in which they have the prospects for long-wearing in the wedding of my daughter. Thus, in the United States, before the start of the 5 clock in the temple a large and continue to receive prominent in the private sector to the club (former palace). It was never a question of wearing a tuxedo - all issues that affect the general structure, equipment, etc. During these months, gradually on the basis of the comments here, as well as books, and the gradual modernization of the other group, and I went with a large group that was at the end of the day the details.
In any case, one of you - and I think that in Europe - the comments on the same uniforms (ie, actions or tuxedo, etc.) are prohibited in the wedding, and I, in fact, and a few other countries, and describe how a basis of traditionally considered good form in this kind of a wedding in the United States. All attended the wedding of the first, with some forms (usually later in the day (the wedding present, and the main male), and sometimes with the guests dressed in Tuxedos. In any case, I wonder whether that was the party that the remark was directly from Roetzel said output of the 1990s.
In any case, I am again, like smoking is a noted long-standing tradition in the United States, at least in the first place for large weddings in the evening. I just got on the way for the withdrawal of Roetzel (and as usual, not the geography). Tie knows what apparently also bound to the official ceremony, the men in the wedding I'm talking about and the guests were dressed in the so-called "semi-official" (ie cases). Books and magazine articles I've ever seen more united. - American where at least.
 

Siggy

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Ugh, whatta gem that "review" is ^

Roetzel is not too exciting here, but I very much like his book. He summarizes what is new in this edition:

Cover - No more model on the cover with prominant package, which was "always disputed" amongst the fans of his book;

Lay-out;

25 new pages;

New pictures in the existing chapters;

References to shops, manufacturers, etc. updated (some don't exist anymore or have changed address etc.) and new pictures in this regard.

That's about it. He doesn't say if he changed his list of quality shoe manufacturers and the praise given to Church's, but he does mention that when he started out in the business world as a young man he already had about 15 pairs of good shoes, "most of them Church's"...
 

Kaplan

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Originally Posted by chorse123
The new book is HEAVY. I got a copy yesterday and that was the first thing I noticed.

Now, that's a review!

If it's significantly heavier than the edition I have now, I may have to get a copy.
 

dopey

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Originally Posted by dopey
My favorite review has already been posted:

and now, this!!!

Regarding these concerns, I posted about recently on the route in the Bernhard Rötzel new edition of his Gentleman: a timeless guide to Fashion, I sent an e-mail to Mr Rötzel requesting a further explanation of his writing: "It [the Tuxedo] It is exactly right for private works, if held in the evening hours - and even if smoking is totally wrong on the wedding. "I wrote to Mr. Rötzel on how the standard bride and groom 'cages was the most weddings I've ever participated in (all in the U.S. and the Jewish generally), as so often is written in the books about American wedding dress as a standard (especially in the case that marriage is the evening), and only the clothes I together for my daughter's wedding in 2007 (and was largely written on the in this forum).
This man wrote back to the day:

"Thank you for your message. It seems that the acceptable daily wear Tuxedo for weddings in the United States. In Europe, the best equipment for the morning dress, evening dress, noon or evening tails. Maybe I should add to the English edition of my book."

Of course the English version is that I wrote about it, but maybe this is a minor revision? Actually, I think that all language versions should say something about it. He asked about my image of "father of the bride" dress in 2007 when he wrote, was interesting, and I am keen to meet - with a description of all the equipment I have posted here in 2008. Actually events daughters wedding reception was really the evening in any case, since I mentioned it. A private club, etc.
Hooray for Rötzel - gentleman and scholar!
 

Lafont

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I see here dopey is acting dopey again! Grow up, guy, and get a life - please? Cutting and pasting a whole bunch of my posts and twisting the product around is not only extremely juvenile but it wastes so much space and time of our members. Surely you must have something smarter to contribute here (or not)?
My posts were contributed in good faith and yours are rather mean spirited and in no possibly way funny. Just stupido.
rimshot.gif
bored.gif
 

Siggy

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I bought a copy of the new German edition. Roetzel must be an avid Styeforum reader, as he did revise his previous shoe "ranking". He now places Crockett & Jones at the top, and demotes Church's as deserved.

He mentions Crockett & Jones, Church's, Tricker's, EG, and Cheaney. He then states "outside of England Chruch's is certainly the best known of these five brands, but since the company is no longer in the hands of the founding family and the new owner has made changes to the lasts and models, Crockett & Jones is considered by many connoisseurs to be the Nr. 1 among the manufacturers. It may be that EG still is a bit more artisanal, but overall C&J offers everything one could expect for shoes from Northampton."
 

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