The Slim Fit 1936 Bucklebacks from about 2-3 seasons ago are Japanese. The new ones are Cone and no comparison.
A lot of ubiquitous labels are using Cone denim, it's cheaper and they can sell the whole "Support the USA" thing which is their only selling point, because those labels typically lack heritage & style or are still very small workshops.
As far as I know Cone doesn't make heavy denim, like 21oz and pretty much all the indigo used is synthetic. They also source the cotton from the USA, instead of Zimbabwe, which has the extra long staple cottons. I've also never seen any stunning fades from any Tellason, Jack Spade, Levis Made in USA, LVC, etc.
It also lacks the prestige of Japanese denim to me. But since the majority of people paying retail for RRL jeans are Asian, perhaps they find Cone denim to be prestigious and exotic though that may not be the case as they were discounting the Cone Slim Straight for $159.
At the $200 price range Cone will get the job done, but these will always be my dream pants.
Edited by RRL CLOTHING - 9/4/13 at 8:27am