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The Official RRL Thread - Page 1068

post #16006 of 21552
Quote:
Originally Posted by aldenfan View Post


Thanks. The belt is RRL.
post #16007 of 21552
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

I thought there were two version of buckle back, older ones on Japanese denim, newer ones on cone denim

The bucklebacks i have here are Japanese.
post #16008 of 21552

The Slim Fit 1936 Bucklebacks from about 2-3 seasons ago are Japanese. The new ones are Cone and no comparison.

 

A lot of ubiquitous labels are using Cone denim, it's cheaper and they can sell the whole "Support the USA" thing which is their only selling point, because those labels typically lack heritage & style or are still very small workshops.

 

As far as I know Cone doesn't make heavy denim, like 21oz and pretty much all the indigo used is synthetic. They also source the cotton from the USA, instead of Zimbabwe, which has the extra long staple cottons. I've also never seen any stunning fades from any Tellason, Jack Spade, Levis Made in USA, LVC, etc.

 

It also lacks the prestige of Japanese denim to me. But since the majority of people paying retail for RRL jeans are Asian, perhaps they find Cone denim to be prestigious and exotic though that may not be the case as they were discounting the Cone Slim Straight for $159.

 

At the $200 price range Cone will get the job done, but these will always be my dream pants.


Edited by RRL CLOTHING - 9/4/13 at 8:27am
post #16009 of 21552
725, ah, wow
post #16010 of 21552

Those are the cheaper ones.. The 18-21oz hand dipped indigo ones run around $995 from various JP manufacturers.


Edited by RRL CLOTHING - 9/4/13 at 8:35am
post #16011 of 21552
My buckles are Japanese. Cone can suck my big ones.
post #16012 of 21552
post #16013 of 21552
I think this write up does a decent job of explaining the differences between US and Japanese denim.
post #16014 of 21552

There are a few things wrong with that article.

 

For one, nobody offers natural indigo denim for $200-300. It's all synthetic. Synthetic dyes were invented around 1900 so I doubt Cone ever offered a 100% natural Indigo product. They usually mix a small percentage of natural indigo in with the rest of their dyes. India and Pakistan denim will actually use natural indigo dyes for a cheap price and good quality, but nobody will look twice at it because it lacks marketability.

 

In the low end Japanese denim spectrum, Cone denim will be comparable. When you start to look at the denim and construction of $300-400 Samurai or Oni you start to see a huge difference in quality. At the high end $800-900 18-24oz natural indigo Japanese denim, Cone doesn't even try to make any denim that can compete with that, in that sense the Japanese are very adventurous with these high end denims while Cone is making the same conservative, boring denim for the past 100 years. And now with the recent insurgence of  "USA made" raw selvedge jeans, Cone is dusting the cobwebs off their Draper looms and finding themselves rolling in $$$ once again.

 

Best I've seen lately from Cone is the Roy stuff that is fully "loomstate" unsanforized, unstarched, unsinged denim.


Edited by RRL CLOTHING - 9/4/13 at 11:42am
post #16015 of 21552
Quote:
Originally Posted by RRL CLOTHING View Post

The Slim Fit 1936 Bucklebacks from about 2-3 seasons ago are Japanese. The new ones are Cone and no comparison.

A lot of ubiquitous labels are using Cone denim, it's cheaper and they can sell the whole "Support the USA" thing which is their only selling point, because those labels typically lack heritage & style or are still very small workshops.

As far as I know Cone doesn't make heavy denim, like 21oz and pretty much all the indigo used is synthetic. They also source the cotton from the USA, instead of Zimbabwe, which has the extra long staple cottons. I've also never seen any stunning fades from any Tellason, Jack Spade, Levis Made in USA, LVC, etc.

It also lacks the prestige of Japanese denim to me. But since the majority of people paying retail for RRL jeans are Asian, perhaps they find Cone denim to be prestigious and exotic though that may not be the case as they were discounting the Cone Slim Straight for $159.

At the $200 price range Cone will get the job done,


Even LuckyBrand is selling a made-in-USA with Cone Denim jean this season
post #16016 of 21552

Yeah, Lucky Legend is like the RRL 'version' of Lucky Brand. Lots of mall brands are picking up on raw selvedge trend, most will use Cone denim. Nordstroms has a HUGE display of Naked and Famous. Where was this stuff when I was growing up and shopping at malls...

 

Then there's brands like Superdry or Cult of Individuality that advertise "supreme Japanese denim" but denim and construction are complete shit.

post #16017 of 21552
Quote:
Originally Posted by RRL CLOTHING View Post

Those are the cheaper ones.. The 18-21oz hand dipped indigo ones run around $995 from various JP manufacturers.

Ah I am never that passionate about jeans, I can see myself spending 6K on suit one day eventually, but 1K for jeans, probably not...

Random question, for all you jeans nuts out there, what do you guys do when you have more than 5 raw. It will take forever to get the fadding. I have one low straight and one slim, and I expect to wear them until the end of the world... I guess it helps that I only wear them once to twice a week at most.

edit: and I find myself wear low straight 80% of the time, the slim is just way to slim on the thigh...
post #16018 of 21552
Clee, I used to be like that but I got tired of it and now I only keep 1 pair now, my RRL one wash. Wearing raw jeans everyday got boring so I will just buy washed RRL jeans now or if I want cheaper stuff Uniqlo.
post #16019 of 21552
I am retiring my RRL low straights and straights as they are now too big for me. I went with APC for raw denim (I wanted some plain, relatively lightweight raw denim given my use pattern). When it comes to washed jeans, the old consensus was that RRL had some of the better washed pairs available on the market. Is that still true with the introduction of "Cone" denim, or are people moving away from that?
post #16020 of 21552
I thought it was said they'd still use Japanese denim for their washed jeans and only Cone for the rigid and 1 wash jeans.
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