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Best shirt - Page 3

post #31 of 49
m@T: How is the workmanship of these Vietnamese tailored garments? If they are as cheap as you describe -- at a fraction of the price of even Hong Kong tailors -- have you considered taking orders from SF members? Even if the quality is a step or two below Jantzen or Chan, surely the incredibly low pricing would make it worthwhile.
post #32 of 49
quality basically ok, and at $9 i treat em as disposable. i found some nice cotton in the markets, but i have no idea what the quality is, what the composition is etc etc - i just know if looked nice n felt nice. these are questions you guys will all ask (and justifiably so) and i just have no answer cos i dont trust what the woman at the markets tells me anyhow. ive flirted with the idea of doing that as kinda a community service, but hit a few barriers.... 1. im logging 70 hour weeks in the real job 2. im not prepared to stand by their workmanship in the face of the particularly anal customers that make these boards so great 3. i dont trust other peoples measurements and dont want to put myself in the middle of "my sleeve is 1/4 inch too long, i told you X and this is x.25" and end up offering a warranty on something i didnt make and dealing with 100 emails from customers around the world (see point 1)
post #33 of 49
Entirely understandable. I think you'd only want to do it if you were setting it up as a business. I would imagine that the cost of labor is low enough in Vietnam that you could probably hire someone to help if you were so inclined. And you could say you wouldn't take orders unless the person was measure by a tailor. Does $9 include materials as well? What do your other tailored garments cost?
post #34 of 49
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Those BG Charvet are cut for the US marketplace, right?  I mean, they aren't tapered.
I think that's right. It has a more tailored fit than the other shirts I own, but it is not tapered so far as I can tell. I don't know if the Charvets for the French market are different.
I'll receive my first petite measure from Charvet this weekend. This is one I had made in Paris. I'll let you know about the difference in fit then. Ermenegildo Zegna (US) offers a slim fitting shirt in MTM.
post #35 of 49
ok let me work this out more scientifically.... Shirts: fabric cost me 50000 dong per meter, i need 2 meters tailoring cost me 60000 dong so 160000 dong total /15860 = 10.08 per shirt Trousers: wool (with Dormeuil spelt incorrectly on selvedge) cost me 120000 dong for 1.3 meters tailoring cost me 70000 dong so 190000/15860 = 11.98 per pair
post #36 of 49
That's great. Do you think the workmanship is good? Have you ever considered importing your own material, or is that not possible?
post #37 of 49
i think the workmanship is OK. Good if you show them a ton of pics and insist on details being matched etc etc - then theyll do quite well. left to their own devices...well.....as another expat once told me about Vietnam "the only place ive ever lived where people will spend three hours looking for ways to cut corners on a 20 minute job" yeah, i import my own cloth for suits - made 2, 1 to go when i get time to do it. Been basically happy with the results. Cost hovers between $50-60 for tailoring on full canvas suits Trousers I dont care so much (its 90+ most days here, so I seldom wear a jacket) - i settle for look good, drape well, feel nice with those. Suits Im more fussy of course and insist on nice cloth, which I buy on eBay from a guy (how6955) in England.
post #38 of 49
Quote:
I'll receive my first petite measure from Charvet this weekend.  This is one I had made in Paris.  I'll let you know about the difference in fit then. Ermenegildo Zegna (US) offers a slim fitting shirt in MTM.
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As a rule, I don't go abroad to buy clothing I could just as easily find in my home country.
So what makes a shirt different than a blazer in this regard?
post #39 of 49
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Originally Posted by johnapril,July 01 2005,11:10
I'll receive my first petite measure from Charvet this weekend.  This is one I had made in Paris.  I'll let you know about the difference in fit then. Ermenegildo Zegna (US) offers a slim fitting shirt in MTM.
Quote:
As a rule, I don't go abroad to buy clothing I could just as easily find in my home country.
So what makes a shirt different than a blazer in this regard?
Please restate the question. Ed- We have reprocessed this request from the Bible belt and come up with an answer: better choice in fabrics.
post #40 of 49
m@T: I think you should seriously consider this. Start it as a business as chorse123 suggested and import cloth or allow buyers to send their own cloth. You seem like an entrepreneurial fellow -- since you're running your marketing (?) business -- so this may be something up your alley. Anyway, if you're serious about this perhaps you should start another thread so we can stop hijacking this one.
post #41 of 49
Charvet is certainly a good choice, though I've always found the collar points to be too short/small to work well for me with a tie. Among my pure-white shirts from Borrelli, T&A and Barba, the Barba is my favorite. Excellent fit (theworldsfinest/Ian Daniels on EBay is superb about listing measurements), amazingly fine fabric and a great collar cut.
post #42 of 49
Quote:
Charvet is certainly a good choice, though I've always found the collar points to be too short/small to work well for me with a tie.  Among my pure-white shirts from Borrelli, T&A and Barba, the Barba is my favorite.  Excellent fit (theworldsfinest/Ian Daniels on EBay is superb about listing measurements), amazingly fine fabric and a great collar cut.
When in Paris, do visit the store in the First. There are many options for collars.
post #43 of 49
Best white shirt you can get? I'd venture the broadcloth tennis collared shirt from J. Press. Viva La Trad. Horace Apostate/Former Wigmore Followers.
post #44 of 49
My first shirt from Charvet just arrived this morning from Paris. White with wide spread, very thin purple stripes. This shirt is made to measure. The fit is snug, very European, no wasted fabric, something I could not obtain from RTW Charvet (or RTW anything) in the United States. After a few wearings and washings I will contact Charvet and note any necessary alterations and request a series of swatches. I am happily on the road to a better-fitting collection of shirts. Thanks to Kabbaz for his many writings on shirtmaking. These details certainly helped during my visit to Place Vendome.
post #45 of 49
I don't like the collars for ready-made shirts when worn with ties, etc. So I have started to only wear detachable collars for when the occasions call for it.
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