well, you certainly can't go wrong with a brioni in super 150s wool, that's for sure. I've collected several Brioni pieces, and i'm a huge fan of the company-- but the only thing i can say about the labels is that Brioni doesn't make any "lesser-line" of clothing, only that (like Oxxford) they sometimes make clothing for individual men's stores, in which case they seem to attach the sleeve buttons (with stitched false-buttonholes), they may or may not use the signature polo-player lining for these stores, and they don't often include a "flower loop" behind the always hand-stitched lapel buttonhole. To be honest, the best Brioni clothing i've seen has been Neiman Marcus (very high standards, almost always double vented/ flower loops/ best cloth available, etc.) and the very top of the men's stores (Wilkes Bashford, Stanley Korshak, Saks in NYC, and of course Bergdorf Goodman-- but these are always noted on the label). The "plain" labels are either smaller men's stores, or possibly from a flagship Brioni store (NYC on 57th street, Rodeo Drive). I'd be interested to know from someone in NYC what the label looks like at the moment, should they take a look at the merchandise on the racks at the store on 57 E 57th Street.