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The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors - Page 55

post #811 of 819

I guess I had one of the few poor experiences with Wilfred.

 

This was a few years ago. Took a cashmere PL coat to have the shortened, button holes cut and a small roll behind the collar removed. The sleeves were fine - machine sewn holes - but one shoulder came back with a large bubble over one side. They redid it and the shoulders were wavy on both sides. They said that was my shoulders so I brought in another jacket of the same material and cut and the shoulders were perfect. They redid it and the shoulder line was still wavy. Wilfred said he couldn't do it again as the material was too delicate. No refund, though he did give me the bullshit line "wear it for a while and it will settle." Wasn't expecting them to cover the cost of the coat, but a refund of the $160 alteration didn't seem unreasonable. 

 

So this beautiful cashmere coat sits in my closet waiting for the day that my shoulders get lumpy.

 

lefty

post #812 of 819

They shortened the sleeves from the sleevehead?

post #813 of 819
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

How are Wilfred's buttonholes (thinking of adding some to an overcoat)?

They're fine.  Machine-sewn.   I never asked for handsewn buttonholes - too expensive and not worth the cost to me.

post #814 of 819
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

They shortened the sleeves from the sleevehead?

Yes, from the shoulder.
post #815 of 819
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiloVance View Post


Yes, from the shoulder.

I was asking lefty - trying to understand how shoulders can be messed up if the jacket needs to be shortened and buttonholes to be cut.  If there are no buttonholes yet, it would be very odd to shorten a sleeve from the sleevehead.

post #816 of 819
Gotcha - and yes, you're right. It does sound odd!
post #817 of 819
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiloVance View Post

I haven't had buttonholes done in a while. I don't have that keen of an eye, to be honest, so they seemed fine to me but not sure what I would be looking for to determine that it was not well done.

Lately, it seems that I've been taking a lot of jackets there that already have working buttonholes - so the sleeve needed to be shortened from the shoulder. I think the last jacket I took there was a dark brown silk/cashmere Drake's piece - I thought they did a great job with it.

Many thanks Gents - may give him a try.
post #818 of 819

The fucked up shoulder came from removing the roll behind the neck. As I understand it: remove collar, open up shoulder seams, cut excess amount, close shoulder, attach collar. 

 

I should have left it alone and just leaned forward whenever I wore it. Then I could be like that guy in the old joke.

 

lefty

post #819 of 819

I use Ignacio's tailor.  Although I don't live in the city anymore, I still try to go there whenever I can.  Sometimes I will hold onto stuff and just wait until I am in the city again, just because I like their work so much.  I've used them for several pieces (suits and blazers) but nothing that required major, major surgery.  Pretty much the only tailor I've used where I haven't had to talk them through everything.  Also the only tailor I've found that didn't think I was going to be using my suit to stack boxes above my head or that I needed enough room in my suit in case I needed to surrender to police officers or something. 

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