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The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors - Page 49

post #721 of 784

my girlfriend goes to Parsons and she is taking his class. she gives him the thumbs up and says he always wears his custom made stuff. he also brought in the suit which won him that award and that it was absolute perfection

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk View Post

It's been awhile since I perused or posted on this forum, but I wanted to help spread the word about Rory Duffy--the Henry Poole-trained winner of the 2009 Golden Shears Award on Savile Row who's hung his shingle in Brooklyn. He's making me my first bespoke commission--a 3B single-breasted sportcoat with box-pleated open patch pockets in a lightweight RAF blue flannel--and I'm filming the whole process in detail for a series of web videos I'll be posting soon. We just had the baste fit last week and it's absolutely gorgeous. Having trained at Poole, Rory cuts a classic Poole coat--close, fitted, and soft, with a generous and slightly roped sleeve head. The extent of drape is contingent not only on the customer's taste, but on his body and posture. Trousers are trim, side-tabbed, and fishtail brace-cut.

Aside from Len Logsdail, Rory is the only Row-trained master tailor working in NYC, and I'd like to help raise his profile enough to keep him here. He's passionate about his work, with a missionary zeal about raising awareness of handcraft tailoring, and young enough (30) to be that lifelong tailor we all dream of having. He's a great guy to boot, and I would recommend that any New Yorker considering going bespoke get in touch with him.

His website is: http://handcrafttailor.com/
post #722 of 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by v8 muscle View Post

my girlfriend goes to Parsons and she is taking his class. she gives him the thumbs up and says he always wears his custom made stuff. he also brought in the suit which won him that award and that it was absolute perfection

 

What class(es) does he teach?

post #723 of 784

Any recommendations in the SOHO Tribeca area?  Need some work done on a jacket. Trickier stuff.

post #724 of 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie22 View Post

Any recommendations in the SOHO Tribeca area?  Need some work done on a jacket. Trickier stuff.

 

 

The two main recent recommendations in this thread have been Pierre of Paris and Cardelino - both are midtown south.

 

I suggest you consider traveling a few more stops to a recommended tailor, given that it is tricky work.

 

  PoP has done excellent work for me.

post #725 of 784

Hey everyone, 

I just had a quick question. As someone who has never really had their measurements taken properly, where should I go in NYC to get it done? I assume I don't need to go to any of these really high end places you are all discussing, but I'm not against it. I'm looking to buy a few suits, pants, and dress shirts as I've recently landed a pretty nice job that will require dressing up a bit more than I'm used to.

 

Thanks for any helpful info. I live in Midtown (CPS) but I'm willing to go pretty much anywhere in Manhattan. smile.gif

post #726 of 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by user201212 View Post

Hey everyone, 
I just had a quick question. As someone who has never really had their measurements taken properly, where should I go in NYC to get it done? I assume I don't need to go to any of these really high end places you are all discussing, but I'm not against it. I'm looking to buy a few suits, pants, and dress shirts as I've recently landed a pretty nice job that will require dressing up a bit more than I'm used to.

Thanks for any helpful info. I live in Midtown (CPS) but I'm willing to go pretty much anywhere in Manhattan. smile.gif

If you're going to get all of that custom made, then I would suggest getting measured wherever you plan on buying.
post #727 of 784

No I'm not planning on getting all of that custom. I just want accurate measurements for future use and I will probably buy most things off the rack and get them altered. I'm still cutting weight (down 55lbs) so I don't want to get too crazy with custom stuff for another year or so. 

 

EDIT: I'd also like to order from a few online stores so having my measurements will make it easier to place an order. Thx


Edited by user201212 - 4/3/13 at 11:07am
post #728 of 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Very cool. IIRC, he used to do work with David Reeves for a while. You should update us when the coat is done, would love to see pictures.

I'll be posting web videos of the entire process of construction. Rory's not only a master tailor, but a great guy who wants to get the word out about what real handcraft bespoke is and how it's made.
post #729 of 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by v8 muscle View Post

my girlfriend goes to Parsons and she is taking his class. she gives him the thumbs up and says he always wears his custom made stuff. he also brought in the suit which won him that award and that it was absolute perfection

I'll actually be giving a brief presentation on the evolution of classic menswear as part of Rory's class tomorrow night.

His Golden Shears-winning suit is indeed a marvel. You can see it (and him) here:

http://dandyportraits.blogspot.com/2013/03/rory-duffy-bespoke-in-brooklyn.html
post #730 of 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by user201212 View Post

No I'm not planning on getting all of that custom. I just want accurate measurements for future use and I will probably buy most things off the rack and get them altered. I'm still cutting weight (down 55lbs) so I don't want to get too crazy with custom stuff for another year or so. 

 

EDIT: I'd also like to order from a few online stores so having my measurements will make it easier to place an order. Thx

What's the point of having measurements if you are buying OTR? Why not just try them on in the store and let the tailor figure out how to alter the garment while you are wearing it? Or is this for online purchasing? I don't think all brands list the garment measurements.

post #731 of 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

What's the point of having measurements if you are buying OTR? Why not just try them on in the store and let the tailor figure out how to alter the garment while you are wearing it? Or is this for online purchasing? I don't think all brands list the garment measurements.

 

It will be a combination of both over the next few months as I grow my wardrobe. I'll prob have a few shirts made custom but certainly not all. Just trying to find the name of good tailor in NYC for this type of work. Like I said, I assume I don't need to go to one of these super high end places to get this basic work done. Please and thank you!

post #732 of 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by user201212 View Post

It will be a combination of both over the next few months as I grow my wardrobe. I'll prob have a few shirts made custom but certainly not all. Just trying to find the name of good tailor in NYC for this type of work. Like I said, I assume I don't need to go to one of these super high end places to get this basic work done. Please and thank you!

Sounds like your making something simple difficult. Real, proper measurements from a tailoring perspective are not often applicable to buying off the rack because of "over measures" used on garments, same goes for custom and bespoke. It's all down to how the guy measures you and how those measurements are interpreted by the maker, factory or designer.
post #733 of 784

I have some issues with my Suit Supply Napoli suit jacket. Below the buttoning point, the jacket flared out a bit more than I wanted. I took it to Bosco and Barraza to get it adjusted. He recommended taking the jacket in around the waist. After getting it back, it fit a bit snug, and the jacket still flared. I decided I still wanted to see if I could get it fixed, so I went to Pierre of Paris today, as he has gotten good reviews in this thread. He started taking the jacket apart, and basically commented that the previous work was a hack job. He asked me if I had the work done at a dry cleaner. He showed me some things he thought were done incorrectly (I didn't really know what I was looking at). I have a lot more confidence now that the jacket will be fixed and fit a lot better. I don't think I am going back to Bosco and Barraza, and apologies if I mislead anyone into thinking they were good. Apparently the only decent thing about them is that they often get you the stuff the same day.

post #734 of 784
Glad PoP is getting some good business. He usually does stuff for the studios and commented on how slow business has been. Hopefully the extra business will keep him from having to close.

No affiliation with him, just a long time customer.
post #735 of 784

PoP has done an excellent job on a number of trousers for me.  He even shortened the rise a several which isnt easy to do.

 

He aint cheap but he does it right, as he is a committed craftsman.  I learn alot just by asking him a few questions and then listening.  He has a passion for his work.

 

I think I will get him to make a bespoke pair of pants for me to see how it does.

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