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The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors - Page 45

post #661 of 791

RedDevil10, ThinkDerm, thanks for the feedback.

 

First set of alterations had the collar lowered, sleeves shortened at the suggestion of the tailor. The back looked like it had some creases but thought I'd see what it looked like after that set of alterations. After they were done, it still looked too boxy, so the tailor said he could do waist suppression without causing vent flare or more creasing in the back. After that was done, the front does look better but the back still looks like it needs to be cleaned up. The rippling / creasing in the back was there even before the waist suppression, and remained. There is still rippling between the shoulder blades, wrinkles above the seat (? maybe not much can be done there) and a bump in the shoulder area. When I asked about these, the tailor said it just needed repressing, did so, indeed trying it on lessened these a little, though didn't eliminate them. 

 

Because they'd already altered it twice and didn't seem to think much of what I thought was undesirable- the various ripples/creases, bump in shoulder - brought it home to take some pics, get feedback here and try to take it to another tailor. Got some general feedback in tailor thread as well, but not specifics. Here is a link:

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/2655#post_6066285

 

Thanks!

post #662 of 791
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesPak View Post

RedDevil10, ThinkDerm, thanks for the feedback.

First set of alterations had the collar lowered, sleeves shortened at the suggestion of the tailor. The back looked like it had some creases but thought I'd see what it looked like after that set of alterations. After they were done, it still looked too boxy, so the tailor said he could do waist suppression without causing vent flare or more creasing in the back. After that was done, the front does look better but the back still looks like it needs to be cleaned up. The rippling / creasing in the back was there even before the waist suppression, and remained. There is still rippling between the shoulder blades, wrinkles above the seat (? maybe not much can be done there) and a bump in the shoulder area. When I asked about these, the tailor said it just needed repressing, did so, indeed trying it on lessened these a little, though didn't eliminate them. 

Because they'd already altered it twice and didn't seem to think much of what I thought was undesirable- the various ripples/creases, bump in shoulder - brought it home to take some pics, get feedback here and try to take it to another tailor. Got some general feedback in tailor thread as well, but not specifics. Here is a link:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/2655#post_6066285


Thanks!
you should not have gotten that suit to begin with.
post #663 of 791
I don't think it's that bad. The wrinkles on the sleeve you can't do much about--that is a sleeve pitch issue that they aren't going to be able to fix. The shoulder thing looks just like you need to get them to lower the collar to take care of that neck roll. The wrinkles in the back and splitting on the vent look like due to the jacket being too tight. Have them let out the waist a bit.
post #664 of 791

Thanks for your reply - do you think PoP is superior to Cardelino, or might either be able to handle these alterations? 

post #665 of 791
I would imagine just about any decent tailor could do it, neither of those are terribly difficult to do.
post #666 of 791

Hi Gents,

 

Would anyone care to provide a sense of what PoP is better for than Cardalino?

 

I have some trousers with too long a rise and think it will take some talent so fix this, or perhaps a good tailor will tell me the cut doesnt fit for me and leave it be.

 

Thanks

post #667 of 791
I don't know why he is better, but he is really good and will tell you if it's not possible.
post #668 of 791

thanks gyasih,

 

that is good enough for me.   I will visit Pop soon with pants in hand.
 

post #669 of 791

Going to give Pierre of Paris a shot with a RLBL suit and a Caruso sportcoat.

post #670 of 791
Anyone have experience with Paul Stuart MTM or Bespoke?
post #671 of 791
I've tried Paul Stuart MTM.

Sub - par at best.

They would only incorporate the fit of their preference (loose and baggy) and they couldn't get the shoulders right for the life of them. YMMV
post #672 of 791
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbrioni View Post

I've tried Paul Stuart MTM.

Sub - par at best.

They would only incorporate the fit of their preference (loose and baggy) and they couldn't get the shoulders right for the life of them. YMMV

How long ago was that?

This is from their website, in regard to the bespoke option:

The Paul Stuart Custom silhouette, or "house style," is based on an iconic jacket design invented over eighty years ago on Savile Row by the personal tailor to the Duke of Windsor. The cut is defined by lightly padded shoulders, high armholes, a slightly generous sleeve at the bicep, draped chest and blade, and definition at the waist. Softly constructed for ease of movement, the overall effect was to provide a masculine, athletic appearance.
post #673 of 791

Hi Gents,

 

I took a pair of Black Fleece trousers that needed some real work to Pierre of Paris a week ago - rise too long.... 

 

I went in for a test fitting on Saturday.  My sense is he does solid work.  He told me up front he could only shorten the 11" rise about 1" but I think he managed about 2" but taking some out right below the top of the pants.  So far it looks pretty good.  He also added a feature to keep the pockets in place.

 

He knows what he is doing and will give you his honest opinion.  I would recommend his for serious stuff or clothes that you really care about, as he isnt cheap. This isnt your average NYC tailor.

 

Also make sure you know what he proposes price-wise.  He initially said in would be $80 then turned into $120.  I didnt mind as he did a few more things that needed to be done.  But if you are budget conscious I would let him know you want to fixed price up front on the work.  I dont think he upsells, rather he is a serious craftsman that wants to get it right.  I like his passion for his work and his attention to details.

 

I am definitely learning from him about clothing and tailoring and will bring him other stuff.  He will show you a lot if  you are interested in the craft.  He gave me some good ideas, too, as I have another pair of flannel slacks without lining at the crotch.  He suggested adding lining there and showed me another pair that he was going to add lining to, and I could see how the wool at the crotch was wearing down unless lined.

 

I also mention that he does bespoke suits starting at $3,000 plus material which should run $400-$1200.  Its out of my price range now but I expect it would be very nice.  He has pictures of various celebrities he has down work for.  He did a over coat and vest for Viggo Mortenson for the Oscars, suits for Vincent D'Onfrio....  He also just did a German WWII military uniform for #0 Rock.

 

He also advised to me find a designer that makes clothes that fit me and stick with it....

post #674 of 791
^^^^

I've had the exact same experience with PoP, his work has been impeccable. However, has anyone else noticed the mothball-ish smell in his shop? The couple of pieces he's tailored for me thus far are at the cleaners now to hopefully remove the smell (airing out, cedar spray, bathroom steam, etc. did not work) - it is pervasive (at least to me). In fact, I was there for 15 minutes yesterday for some basted fittings and in just that time the suit I was wearing and my overcoat picked up the smell. Gone now, but...
Edited by RedDevil10 - 2/26/13 at 12:12pm
post #675 of 791
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ennius View Post

Hi Gents,

I took a pair of Black Fleece trousers that needed some real work to Pierre of Paris a week ago - rise too long.... 

I went in for a test fitting on Saturday.  My sense is he does solid work.  He told me up front he could only shorten the 11" rise about 1" but I think he managed about 2" but taking some out right below the top of the pants.  So far it looks pretty good.  He also added a feature to keep the pockets in place.

He knows what he is doing and will give you his honest opinion.  I would recommend his for serious stuff or clothes that you really care about, as he isnt cheap. This isnt your average NYC tailor.

Also make sure you know what he proposes price-wise.  He initially said in would be $80 then turned into $120.  I didnt mind as he did a few more things that needed to be done.  But if you are budget conscious I would let him know you want to fixed price up front on the work.  I dont think he upsells, rather he is a serious craftsman that wants to get it right.  I like his passion for his work and his attention to details.

I am definitely learning from him about clothing and tailoring and will bring him other stuff.  He will show you a lot if  you are interested in the craft.  He gave me some good ideas, too, as I have another pair of flannel slacks without lining at the crotch.  He suggested adding lining there and showed me another pair that he was going to add lining to, and I could see how the wool at the crotch was wearing down unless lined.

I also mention that he does bespoke suits starting at $3,000 plus material which should run $400-$1200.  Its out of my price range now but I expect it would be very nice.  He has pictures of various celebrities he has down work for.  He did a over coat and vest for Viggo Mortenson for the Oscars, suits for Vincent D'Onfrio....  He also just did a German WWII military uniform for #0 Rock.

He also advised to me find a designer that makes clothes that fit me and stick with it....

Same experience and advice for me (especially about adding material to pocket) and I have been going to him for a long time, solid man.
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