or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Neck Roll/Back Pucker
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Neck Roll/Back Pucker - Page 2

post #16 of 34
I could see how your experience with this has gone. If you had neck roll the shoulder would have to be made with more fullness over the back/blades. In some cases the back needs to be raised at the side seams to compensate for the shortness of back due to the alteration. Few will take the job this far. It is a big job and is common and easy to do after a basted fitting during the bespoke process but is major surgery when adjusting a finished garment. Collar/neck/shoulder adjustments are tricky because it so critical to the jackets drape and balance.
post #17 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
If you had neck roll the shoulder would have to be made with more fullness over the back/blades. In some cases the back needs to be raised at the side seams to compensate for the shortness of back due to the alteration.

Fortunately for my alterations tailors, I have never had a RTW jacket that absolutely required going this far, but as you note, there is only so much that the back can be shortened without also suggesting redoing the shoulder and side seams. At that point, you are verging on a recut that begins to emphatically underscore the true economies of a great bespoke (or custom, if you prefer that) tailor.

- B
post #18 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thanks for bumping this & reminding me to take the suit to the tailor.
post #19 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post
no he did not just lower the collar. he shortened the back at the top. this includes opening the shoulder seams, and shortening the back all the way across the top. that is if he did the proper job.
How much would one expect to pay for this?
post #20 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliPalmer View Post
How much would one expect to pay for this?

I had a suit that required not only lowering the collar, but detaching and tightening the collar (as vox mentioned, it pulled away a bit). To do this, they had to take the collar itself off, trim it, reshape it (the top half of the lapel notch) in addition to the standard work done at the shoulder seams.

This cost $80 at one of Atlanta's better tailors. It took two tries, but I wasn't charged for the minor second correction obviously. I'm sure just lowering the collar would have cost less..I'm guessing about half as much.
post #21 of 34
Thread Starter 
Now, to find a competent tailor who can lower the collar/shorten the back after pinning it and a fitting. :scratchchin:
post #22 of 34
Hi all, Just had a jacket taken in at the back, but now it has a very noticeable pucker under the collar. Before, the jacket sat flat across the back shoulder area (no collar pucker), but was a but loose in the middle/lower part of my back. Is collar pucker a problem that can arise from taking in the back seam (my tailor said she took in the back not the side seams). Additionally, she said the collar just needed pressing -- which hasn't helped. Also, on a side note, I'm a complete noob when it comes to tailoring. How do I judge the work performed. Obviously, I'm not happy with the end result (the drape seems off), but it wasn't a bespoke job either. It cost $30 to do a little suppression via the back seam (which was mentioned in SF as appropriate). Thanks, JH.
post #23 of 34
Thread Starter 
That's what happened to my suit. Took it to an alterations 'tailor' who took in the center seam which resulted in the pucker. She did another jacket for me which had the same result and she fixed it somehow. The jacket that caused me to start this thread, however, remains the same. Maybe one day I'll take it back.
post #24 of 34
one of the in-house BB tailor said he could just heat shrink a minor collar roll pucker. thoughts?
post #25 of 34
What generally cause the neck roll in a jacket?
post #26 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post

Over the years, I have concluded that with the possible exception of the two master tailors posting in this thread, it is absolutely essential for the best result to:
(1) Have the tailor open the collar, detaching it from the top of the back.
(2) Then, have the tailor pin up the collar and back while you are wearing it. Look at it carefully in the three way mirror...do not just look for how the upper back gets smoothed, look also at the fit of the collar around your neck.
You are going to have to compromise between shortening the back and risking the collar pulling away from your neck. Depending on the degree of the problem, this will not be a big issue...just be aware that it could be.

I have found that RTW alterations where the shortening of the back is simply chalked never turn out as well as I like. I like to see it in real time.
- B

I'm looking at the jacket I wore today which had the collar lowered and the neck is pulling away badly. Lots of shirt collar showing and there's still horizontal wrinkles.

I also notice a bulge in one shoulder. I wasn't too happy with it when I tried it on but was told that it needs to be pressed. Is that true? Can this be salvaged?

bnuzz.jpg

V5hFYl.jpg

I can see the shoulder bulge in the front here.
BoGBcl.jpg
post #27 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomerJ View Post

V5hFYl.jpg

This jacket is too tight across the upper back, and lowering the collar has just made it gape away from the back of your neck.
post #28 of 34
Looks like you don't need the collar lowered. Your issue is large/ prominent shoulder blades that cause tension across the upper back and creates the roll. The shoulders/back need to be reshaped and reworked to accommodate your shoulder blades. You need a real coatmaker's skill to achieve this.

What city are you in, maybe I know someone that can help you
post #29 of 34
The cause of the neck pucker is shoulder slope on squarer shoulders 9 times out of ten, but I've also seen it caused by prominent lower trapezius and the resulting hollow at the beginning of the cervical spine, also affecting the collar. I can't remember where I read it (probably Cutter and Tailor) but certain Italian tailors sew or used to sew a pad in at this region to correct the problem. Probably done at the fitting stage of a bespoke garment and not as a fix on a RTW garment.
post #30 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Looks like you don't need the collar lowered. Your issue is large/ prominent shoulder blades that cause tension across the upper back and creates the roll. The shoulders/back need to be reshaped and reworked to accommodate your shoulder blades. You need a real coatmaker's skill to achieve this.
What city are you in, maybe I know someone that can help you

Reviving this thread to ask a question:

I'm pretty happy with my last few MTM suits (financially not really ready to go bespoke, yet), however this roll remains an issue that I have not yet fully tackled. My shoulder blades are so prominent they're like two mountains on my back. How can I instruct my MTM salesman to properly correct for this?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Neck Roll/Back Pucker