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General Bike Thread (Desiderata, questions, porn) - Page 87

post #1291 of 1758
It's the only countries he respects. Now anyone care to help me with my question 3 posts above?
post #1292 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

USA or Germany or Japan, seems like an odd set of countries to be picky about?
Japan - Giant(?), USA - Trek, Canondale, Germany - BMW motorbikes probably go a bit faster.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joffrey View Post

It's the only countries he respects. Now anyone care to help me with my question 3 posts above?
What is the "leisure" going to be ridden on? If its all paved I'd go for a road bike personally, never really saw the point of a hybrid unless you're going on gravel.

Going to go out on my mountain bike for the first time in a while now. Bye.
post #1293 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joffrey View Post

Hey, I'm seeking some general thoughts from the riders here.
I'm in the market for a hybrid. What do folks here think of the Giant Seek II? I took it out on a ride last weekend and was a fan. It's a Small frame (only available) and I should be a Medium but it fit good after some adjustments of the ride height and moving the seat back a bit. Tried the Giant Escape City and Jamis Coda Sport (both in 19" frames). I had no problem with the Jamis but for some reason the Seek II just has my attention. My budget is $500-600, so at my local store they're all within the range (escape city low end at 500, coda sport top end at 560- seek II 550). How does the Specialized Sirrus line compare to these? It was available but I never got around to trying it out.
I intend to use the bike for commuting (3-5 miles one way), paved trails (excercise maybe 10-15 miles round trip) and leisure (3-5 miles one way). I'll likely consider putting fenders and a rear rack on it.
Thanks igents.

I'd just try to find some vintage road bike - snag one off craigslist for <100, spend a couple dollars on tires and bam. No sense dropping huge coin on something only for rides that short.
post #1294 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Humphrey Appleby View Post

Japan - Giant(?), USA - Trek, Canondale, Germany - BMW motorbikes probably go a bit faster.
What is the "leisure" going to be ridden on? If its all paved I'd go for a road bike personally, never really saw the point of a hybrid unless you're going on gravel.
Going to go out on my mountain bike for the first time in a while now. Bye.

Made in Taiwan or China.
post #1295 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Humphrey Appleby View Post

Japan - Giant(?), USA - Trek, Canondale, Germany - BMW motorbikes probably go a bit faster.

Focus are from Germany too. Good luck finding one in the US any more, though. Performance has them on clearance because they're no longer carrying them (so I understand it).

They are quite highly regarded from what I read in the magazines.

b
post #1296 of 1758
could probably get a Lynskey Cooper for around $3000, handmade titanium in the US

or look for an older Caad9 which were made in the US, but the Caad10 is better even though it's made in Taiwan
post #1297 of 1758
Thanks guys
post #1298 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Althis View Post

could probably get a Lynskey Cooper for around $3000, handmade titanium in the US
or look for an older Caad9 which were made in the US, but the Caad10 is better even though it's made in Taiwan

Why the qualifier, most bikes are made in Taiwan or China so you would expect that they'd be pretty good at it.
post #1299 of 1758
many people were angry over the fact that Cannondale changed their manufacturing from the US to Taiwan and believed that the quality would go down, when in fact it's actually gone up. I have a caad10 and love it (my second caad10 actually), I could care less where it was made as long as it performs and lasts. I think the only fault people could find was that the welds weren't ground down and smoothed out as much as the previous generation caads.
post #1300 of 1758
Went out for a ride today and my heel was clipping something. I looked down and the cap was coming out of my left side crank. So I screwed it back in with my fingers and headed home, not certain what sort of problem this is.

So after investigating via my Park Tools Big Blue Book of Bike Maintenance and the FSA website I figured it out. Tighten it up with a 8mm hex and then tighten the clamp bolts on the crank itself. Only problem? You cannot physically use a tool to tighten the cap. It is completely smooth--no ridges for a hex or allen or any other sort of wrench. WTF? Am I missing something? Any help? I'm going to call a shop tomorrow when they're not as busy.

b
post #1301 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdawson808 View Post

Went out for a ride today and my heel was clipping something. I looked down and the cap was coming out of my left side crank. So I screwed it back in with my fingers and headed home, not certain what sort of problem this is.
So after investigating via my Park Tools Big Blue Book of Bike Maintenance and the FSA website I figured it out. Tighten it up with a 8mm hex and then tighten the clamp bolts on the crank itself. Only problem? You cannot physically use a tool to tighten the cap. It is completely smooth--no ridges for a hex or allen or any other sort of wrench. WTF? Am I missing something? Any help? I'm going to call a shop tomorrow when they're not as busy.
b

What crank is it.
post #1302 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdawson808 View Post

Went out for a ride today and my heel was clipping something. I looked down and the cap was coming out of my left side crank. So I screwed it back in with my fingers and headed home, not certain what sort of problem this is.

So after investigating via my Park Tools Big Blue Book of Bike Maintenance and the FSA website I figured it out. Tighten it up with a 8mm hex and then tighten the clamp bolts on the crank itself. Only problem? You cannot physically use a tool to tighten the cap. It is completely smooth--no ridges for a hex or allen or any other sort of wrench. WTF? Am I missing something? Any help? I'm going to call a shop tomorrow when they're not as busy.

b

Are those the things to set preload on the bearings?
http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=23828

On the Shimano cranks there's a special tool to set these. I suspect to help prevent overtightening since they only need to be finger tight.
post #1303 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang66 View Post

What crank is it.

FSA Gossamer MegaExo
Quote:
Originally Posted by zippyh View Post

Are those the things to set preload on the bearings?
http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=23828
On the Shimano cranks there's a special tool to set these. I suspect to help prevent overtightening since they only need to be finger tight.

Sort of. Except where the cap end (in the picture in that thread) is clearly is made to accept a 8mm hex, mine is completely smooth inside. I think you are right though about just finger-tightening it. It only takes 4 in-lbs (0.7 Nm?) of pressure. And it does not hold the crank on. It only holds the bearings in place. I guess. I'm far from an expert on this. I just can't figure out why both the Park Tools book and FSA's website seem to be wrong.

Maybe it is nothing more than tightening it with my fingers and going on my way.

b
post #1304 of 1758
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdawson808 View Post

FSA Gossamer MegaExo
Sort of. Except where the cap end (in the picture in that thread) is clearly is made to accept a 8mm hex, mine is completely smooth inside. I think you are right though about just finger-tightening it. It only takes 4 in-lbs (0.7 Nm?) of pressure. And it does not hold the crank on. It only holds the bearings in place. I guess. I'm far from an expert on this. I just can't figure out why both the Park Tools book and FSA's website seem to be wrong.
Maybe it is nothing more than tightening it with my fingers and going on my way.
b

Weird. The FSA tech specs are rubbish. One drawing has the preload bolt looking like it takes an hex key and calls it an M18 or M12 preload bolt another drawing looks like what you describe and calls it an M18 crankbolt. And yet another drawing calls it an M18 crankbolt but again it's looking like it takes a hex key. ffffuuuu.gif

From the links under FSA Gossamer Pro Compact MegaExo this site The FSA Gossamer MegaExo has no link to a manual just says to post questions at the right. I'd post a question if I were you.
post #1305 of 1758
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