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Cloth and other choices for DJ - Page 5

post #61 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff View Post
Putting silk facings on the tuxedo doesnt cost any more

False.
post #62 of 103
Thread Starter 
I think he meant an SR DJ will cost the same regardless if the lapels of the wc are self- or silk-faced
post #63 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by tazmaniac View Post
I think he meant an SR DJ will cost the same regardless if the lapels of the wc are self- or silk-faced

If so, not so.
post #64 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by tazmaniac View Post
I think he meant an SR DJ will cost the same regardless if the lapels of the wc are self- or silk-faced
I didn't mean specifically on a SR DJ, I meant for tailoring in general. And although in this context I meant the labor involved to put the silk on the tuxedo vest's lapels shouldn't cost more, in fact, the only up charge for a tuxedo at all should be for the cost of the silk facings, buttons etc... and not the labor.
post #65 of 103
Thread Starter 
I understand Despos had a different approach there. I don't know how my tailor handles it, but I will apparently still be able to choose all the facings at the first fitting.
post #66 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by tazmaniac View Post
I understand Despos had a different approach there. I don't know how my tailor handles it, but I will apparently still be able to choose all the facings at the first fitting.
You have far too much anxiety over the smallest of decisions. I don't necessarily think they are unimportant but if you can't make them for yourself at any point, at any level, I really don't see you getting to the next level.
post #67 of 103
Thread Starter 
Oh, don't worry, I will make the decision myself, just looking for some opinions. I also wouldn't worry about my getting to "the next level", when you don't know what level I am on to begin with...
post #68 of 103
I don't like lesser at all. Cheap cloth peddled by cheap tailors to improve mark up and profit. Why use £20 a meter cloth on a suit that is made for you.

Mohair is great for a dinner suit. Tonik Mohair by Dormeuil is fairly heavy and has a 50's/60's feel a d look while still being relevant.
post #69 of 103
Thread Starter 
Your point being? I did not choose a Lesser cloth, did I? Apart from that, I am very happy with my business suits from Lesser's range.
post #70 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by tazmaniac View Post
Your point being? I did not choose a Lesser cloth, did I? Apart from that, I am very happy with my business suits from Lesser's range.

I should have put the quote in. I was replying to your question a while back about experience with the heavier lesser cloth. Smiths is just as bad. There's no need to be upset if you ask peoples opinions you will get some people disagreeing with you. I am sorry but I really don't like Smiths and Lesser. I have had things made in them because of the price and because of there lauded durability but in all honesty I find they wear out faster than the luxury cloths like Dormeuil, Scabal and Loro Piana. They didn't wear through but they picked up bad shines at which point I got rid.
post #71 of 103
Thread Starter 
I'm not upset, I just thought the discussion had moved on. I have a suit from Dormeuil cloth and I don't really like the look, but that is hardly a relevant sample range and I don't consider myself an expert on cloth. I do know, however, that I have a hard time wearing things through, I am not particularly hard on clothing.
post #72 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
I should have put the quote in. I was replying to your question a while back about experience with the heavier lesser cloth. Smiths is just as bad. There's no need to be upset if you ask peoples opinions you will get some people disagreeing with you. I am sorry but I really don't like Smiths and Lesser. I have had things made in them because of the price and because of there lauded durability but in all honesty I find they wear out faster than the luxury cloths like Dormeuil, Scabal and Loro Piana. They didn't wear through but they picked up bad shines at which point I got rid.

I've got nothing in Dormeuil or Scabal, but my experience with Loro Piana was not a positive one. It did not pick up a shine, but it started getting snags and runs after the first few wearings. It also drapes like toilet paper.
post #73 of 103
Thread Starter 
In any case, I really love the Smith's midnight barathea I chose for my DJ. It has a very nice soft hand and looks quite substantial for a cloth of 10-11ozs. I actually preferred the look to the heavier baratheas in the book. It was, however, interesting to see a sample of a 16-17ozs barathea...
post #74 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I've got nothing in Dormeuil or Scabal, but my experience with Loro Piana was not a positive one. It did not pick up a shine, but it started getting snags and runs after the first few wearings. It also drapes like toilet paper.

Well I do agree with you that Loro Piana is overated. I only stock it because clients demand it. Still prefer them to Smiths and lesser.

Dormeuil is interesting being Anglo/French. They are rather English in a lot of ways but with a bit of Parisian flair. Royal 12 is ultra English in look and drape. They have a broad selection so I suppose it depends what book your looking at.
post #75 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
Well I do agree with you that Loro Piana is overated. I only stock it because clients demand it. Still prefer them to Smiths and lesser.

Dormeuil is interesting being Anglo/French. They are rather English in a lot of ways but with a bit of Parisian flair. Royal 12 is ultra English in look and drape. They have a broad selection so I suppose it depends what book your looking at.

Interesting. So far, my bespoke jackets and suits have all been made of English cloth. I don't have a prejudice against Scabal or Dormeuil, but I don't really have the opportunity to flip through the books very often either. I picked most of my cloth from unlabeled bolts that my tailor happened to have in stock.
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