You may be the only person in the seven years we've been doing this that i've heard has the preference of the wider hem stitch.
Edited by kiya - 11/21/13 at 10:19am
I got my ST-120X Shadow selvedge denim in the mail today and I think these are probably the best jeans I've owned (previous was all N&F, APCs and Levis Made and Craft). Well worth the money. Now I just gotta start breaking in these bad boys.
In regards to the chain stitching, I got mine done with Self-Edge and I compared it with the original hem and found it to be very similar. Most people will not see the difference unless you are going to put the two side by side and really scrutinize it. So to me, unless someone on the street gonna walk by and grab me by the pant leg and stare, it's not an issue to me. It's a helluva lot better than going to a regular tailor and have them fuck up the selvedge edge while trying to hem/taper.
with 3sixteens, from my experience they don't tend to stretch as much as other brands so if they definitely shouldn't be tight when you put them on initially because it won't stretch out like gap jeans. I'd say if the waist fits a little snug but not uncomfortable then you're good to go. depending on the kind of fit you're looking for, i'd even say go with the size that fits just right and it should be fine.