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3sixteen Denim Series, Bracelets, Shirts... - Page 107

post #1591 of 1733
Just a reminder that Self Edge, an SF affiliate, sells the complete 3sixteen and 3sixteen+ collection, and will chainstitch for a very reasonable $15 for items purchased online (where they also offer free shipping).

And if you buy in store (or were able to find a friend or SF member who could help pick the up for you, which isn't a crazy notion) it's free.
post #1592 of 1733
Quote:
Originally Posted by rydenfan View Post

Congrats!! That is a great accomplishment!

I completely agree on the sizing thing. I would gladly pay 3Sixteen an extra $25 to have them in a shorter length. I understand operations and inventory control pretty well so it would not be that hard to model out demand and plan accordingly. They could even take pre-orders into an upcoming production run if they were truly worried about the carrying costs of the inventory.

This is good way to do it, either pay an extra 25 or a pre order. It would be perfect to have the most popular models in 32 and 34. To me Its a bit of nonsense, to have a pair of Diesel etc. jeans with a perfect finish and have an expensive, great quality selvedge jean with a different color thread and an OK finish. I have tried BO and SE chain stich, and yes, the work is quite good, but you can tell the difference with the original, and this is normal
post #1593 of 1733
How is having the jean company hem it different from having the shop u buy it from hem it? the factory and the shop have the same chainstitch machine and both have people who know how to use them
post #1594 of 1733
Doesn't the leg opening size change if a manufacturer makes a jean to inseam 32 as opposed to a retailer hemming a jean to inseam 32?
post #1595 of 1733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghdvfddzgzdzg View Post

How is having the jean company hem it different from having the shop u buy it from hem it? the factory and the shop have the same chainstitch machine and both have people who know how to use them

The reason for this is because factories (in America) use modern chainstitching machines so both the machine and the machine's folding attachment are different.
post #1596 of 1733
@kiya, can you talk a little more about that in terms of 3sixteen specifically? If I were to buy a pair of 3sixteens from Self Edge and ask them to hem them, what qualities will be different about that hem from what the factory hem looks like? How will the hems look different with wear?

And to the @Alcibiades question: this would depend on the cut and if there's any taper in the final inches of the leg. On a straight leg pair you're not gonna see a difference in hem size because "straight leg" means pretty much no width change from the knee down. And then for tapering pairs, I've seen plenty of "taper below the knee" jean cuts that taper below the knee pretty quickly and then are the same width for the last several inches of the leg, in which case hemming won't change your leg opening size. Not sure how 3sixteens do it.
post #1597 of 1733
Just got a chance to measure my 3sixteen slim legs. Tapers quickly below the knee and stays at around 7 1/8" for the rest of the leg.
post #1598 of 1733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghdvfddzgzdzg View Post

@kiya, can you talk a little more about that in terms of 3sixteen specifically? If I were to buy a pair of 3sixteens from Self Edge and ask them to hem them, what qualities will be different about that hem from what the factory hem looks like? How will the hems look different with wear?

Are you familiar with the difference between a hemline from a modern chain stitching machine and a hemline from a Unionspecial 43200g machine?
post #1599 of 1733
i can make guesses but i don't think i know exactly, no.
post #1600 of 1733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghdvfddzgzdzg View Post

i can make guesses but i don't think i know exactly, no.

The simplified explanation of the difference is that with a vintage Union Special the machine pushes the fabric in two different directions after the folding attachment and therefore increases the roping effect seen on selvedge denim hem-lines. The second difference is that the width of the hem is about .5" on a modern machine where as a vintage machine will have a folding unit that creates a .375" hem which is far closer to how vintage jeans look, this is very noticeable to those into jeans even from eye level.
post #1601 of 1733

Ah, very interesting. I had a pair of 3sixteen ST-120x chainstitched by Self Edge, and the difference was indeed very noticeable compared to the original hem on my SL-100x and SL-120x. The hem was a lot narrower on the ST-120x and the roping was more pronounced.

post #1602 of 1733
So with the hemming being done through Self Edge on the Union Special and 3Sixteen not offering different factory-made lengths, the jeans actually come out cooler looking.
post #1603 of 1733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghdvfddzgzdzg View Post

So with the hemming being done through Self Edge on the Union Special and 3Sixteen not offering different factory-made lengths, the jeans actually come out cooler looking.

That's obviously a subjective thing, i was just stating the facts of the differences.
post #1604 of 1733
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiya View Post

The simplified explanation of the difference is that with a vintage Union Special the machine pushes the fabric in two different directions after the folding attachment and therefore increases the roping effect seen on selvedge denim hem-lines. The second difference is that the width of the hem is about .5" on a modern machine where as a vintage machine will have a folding unit that creates a .375" hem which is far closer to how vintage jeans look, this is very noticeable to those into jeans even from eye level.

it depends of how you like that 3.75 look or not, I don´t like it. Other union special machines have the .5, in both cases the hemming looks different than the hemming from the factory, which is a very nice and perfectly finished chain stich hem.
post #1605 of 1733

you could say the market of people who care about the .15" difference is not big enough to out weigh the costs of supplying multiple inseam lengths.

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