Have American mags started covering the upcoming fall/winter stuff yet? Is there anything that you've seen/heard about that really struck you? The new German edition of GQ just popped into my postbox today, and it had a feature of some designers' upcoming stuff. Two things really stuck out to me: 1) A single-button, single-breasted, peak-lapel velvet morning coat (with split tails) by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. In the mag spread, they paired it with jeans, ugly-ass velvet slippers with RL on them, and a cashmere turtleneck. It struck me as the perfect look for a gallery exhibit premiere or some such activity. Although I definitely appreciate the Chester Barrie quality of RLPL tailored clothing, I've never bought anything from that part of the collection. (I do have a few PL polo shirts, and actually I really, really like the PL bathing suits...) There's never been anything unique enough about them. I have a feeling that this jacket may just be my first. 2) Diagonally cable-knit monochrome cashmere sweater by Jil Sander. In the summer, I bought some diagonally-striped shirts (from Loro Piana and Zara), and the sweaters are a natural evolution. However, with the questionable quality of Jil Sander's post-Prada takeover stuff, and I'm hoping that my favourite sweater-maker (Loro Piana) does something similar. On the downside, they said that the trend for YSL RG next season would be "oversized". I thought Tom Ford wanted to make YSL classic, whilst leaving the hyperfashion dross to Gucci.... (The Gucci spread, a cream leather sportcoat and matching wool trousers, looked more YSL-ly to me.) Peace, JG
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post #2 of 8
6/17/02 at 1:55am
- LA Guy
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I saw some of the fall pieces earlier this year. Â I'll probably get a couple of striped Prada shirts. Â They actually resemble Marc Jacobs pieces, but cut by Prada. Â My main interest this year (as in other years), however, is in less well-known designers. Â I'll probably pick up a Dirk Schonberger shirt with a shredded "bib-front", for lack of a better description. Â And, of course, I'll be looking out for the best streetwear. Â I think that Paper Denim & Cloth is still the best denim line out there, and I've already picked up a Frankie B corduroy western shirt/jacket (I've even worn it a few times - I don't recommend it for June in LA). On a peripherally related note, in an attempt to avoid being a fashion victim, I've been customizing designer pieces and wearing them in a way the designers probably never meant them to be worn. Â Case in point, I bought a Prada shirt just a half size too large and wear it with the shirt-tail untucked over jeans and sneakers, wearing what was meant as a very tailored, fitted and frankly, very uptight piece in a "summer at the cabin" manner. Â I've also converted innumerable shirts from button-ups into snap-ups, sewing the original button onto the back of one of the snaps, to create a sort of trompe d'oeil. Â I also had a Borrelli (...) shirt re-cut into a fitted western shirt, with the original mother of pearl buttons glued onto the snaps. Â I'm sure that the more conservative in this forum will think that the last example is a great sacrilege (Steve B. lol), but I'd really like to encourage a little more experimentation among the members of this forum. Â You are a self-selected group, the supposedly leaders of the curve. Â Show that you've got the chops, that you don't need a Miuccia Prada or a Tom Ford or a Alan Flusser telling you how to dress yourself.
Quote:
On a peripherally related note, in an attempt to avoid being a fashion victim, I've been custo2mizing designer pieces and wearing them in a way the designers probably never meant them to be worn. Â Case in point, I bought a Prada shirt just a half size too large and wear it with the shirt-tail untucked over jeans and sneakers, wearing what was meant as a very tailored, fitted and frankly, very uptight piece in a "summer at the cabin" manner. Â I've also converted innumerable shirts from button-ups into snap-ups, sewing the original button onto the back of one of the snaps, to create a sort of trompe d'oeil. Â I also had a Borrelli (...) shirt re-cut into a fitted western shirt, with the original mother of pearl buttons glued onto the snaps. Â I'm sure that the more conservative in this forum will think that the last example is a great sacrilege (Steve B. lol), but I'd really like to encourage a little more experimentation among the members of this forum. Â You are a self-selected group, the supposedly leaders of the curve. Â Show that you've got the chops, that you don't need a Miuccia Prada or a Tom Ford or a Alan Flusser telling you how to dress yourself.
post #4 of 8
6/17/02 at 3:01pm
- LA Guy
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Hi JoeG, Nice to get a reply. The idea behind the deconstruction/reconstruction bit is to subvert convention - a sort of bespoke vintage, if you will. That's why it's important to work from existing garments. Working from a designer or bespoke piece sends an interesting message, IMO. I realize that it's not for everyone, but I do like your idea of traditional dress cut in modern fabrics and using Savile Row techniques, although I thought that shalwar kameez was exclusively for women. I've actually toyed with the idea a bit myself, although my focus would be on frontier dress. A lot of Mexican migrant workers, and there are many in LA, mix traditional Mexican garments with westernwear like jeans and cowboy boots. I have an idea of recutting the iconic items like Mexican wedding shirts, and making them out of stretch twill or wool/cotton blends rather than linen and lightweight cotton, and in dark colors (moss green and chestnut brown and deep maroon) for winter.
post #5 of 8
6/17/02 at 9:11pm
- Steve B.
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post #6 of 8
6/17/02 at 9:31pm
- LA Guy
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Now, to answer pstoller's question from another thread on the deconstructed shirt post. First off, you got me. The Borelli shirt had a little bit of fading on the underside of the collar and I'd torn the bottom seam about a half inch, so I figured, why not do something more interesting than just fixing the thing. I do think that the shirt looks pretty good. I think that it has good textural interest, since it is that it is made of a very fine material generally reserved for, well, Borrelli quality shirts. Moreover, the pattern is a bluish green stripe which is again, typical in sports shirts, but rare in western shirts. Lastly, the original pocket, which I had kept on, is displaced into two parts at the seam that appears on the front on western shirt. It is obvious that it used to be a traditional sports shirt. Merely whimsical? I can't make that judgement - but it has gotten a lot of interest, and few people asked me if I was selling them (no).
post #7 of 8
6/17/02 at 9:46pm
Quote:
...you got me. The Borelli shirt had a little bit of fading on the underside of the collar and I'd torn the bottom seam about a half inch, so I figured, why not do something more interesting than just fixing the thing.Quote:
First off, you got me. Â The Borelli shirt had a little bit of fading on the underside of the collar and I'd torn the bottom seam about a half inch, so I figured, why not do something more interesting than just fixing the thing.
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