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Oxxford MTM - Page 2

post #16 of 26
Which is the more likely source of problems: incorrect measurements or bad interpretation of accurate measurements?
post #17 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Which is the more likely source of problems: incorrect measurements or bad interpretation of accurate measurements?
I think incorrect measurements coupled with the refusal of many merchants to offer more than 1 fitting leads to a sub-standard garment. Panzer
post #18 of 26
Quote:
Which is the more likely source of problems: incorrect measurements or bad interpretation of accurate measurements?
Both are equally possible.. The idiot salesman thinks you've said single vent when you meant double. He sees your shoulders as more sloping than they are. He measures your chest too loose. Etc. etc. Conversely, the maker cuts the clothes wrong. They don't hang properly. Too much fabric here, buttons in the wrong place there. Or, as in my experience, both go wrong at the same time.
post #19 of 26
I think a sensible alternative would be to try on the RTW model in the store, and then communicate with the salesperson how exactly you'd want the measurements tweaked, as well as what physical oddities they should take into consideration. This would at least work well for someone who isn't far off from RTW. For example, I'd say that I'd want the 39R Gibbons model, except with .25" more in the shoulders, .25" shorter, .75" shorter sleeves, and 1" more waist suppression than comes standard. Noting any collar shortening would be easy to do as well. I think this would result in a better end product than taking measurement from scratch. What do you think about this route?
post #20 of 26
Quote:
I think a sensible alternative would be to try on the RTW model in the store, and then communicate with the salesperson how exactly you'd want the measurements tweaked, as well as what physical oddities they should take into consideration.  This would at least work well for someone who isn't far off from RTW.  For example, I'd say that I'd want the 39R Gibbons model, except with .25" more in the shoulders, .25" shorter, .75" shorter sleeves, and 1" more waist suppression than comes standard.  Noting any collar shortening would be easy to do as well.  I think this would result in a better end product than taking measurement from scratch.  What do you think about this route?
I think that's a very sensible suggestion; a top-flight tailor can do wonders customizing a RTW garment to your unique measurements (provided the garment is of sufficient quality). koji
post #21 of 26
Johnnynorman's suggestion is exactly how MTM is measured. They start with a standard sized jacket and make adjustments to it. If you're comparing MTM to Kiton or Oxxford RTW, the differences are principally that you have more control over what you get with MTM. Compared to run of the mill RTW, MTM is infinitely superior. I ascribe the number of bad experiences people are reporting with MTM to the general lack of skill outside of a few establishments like Brooks Brothers on 42nd Street. People who know nothing about suits themselves are not going to do a great job of selling you a MTM suit. I gave it up after 40 years, but I'm lucky enough to get to London with reasonable frequency.
post #22 of 26
It certainly is how the MTM pattern is done, but I don't think it's how the "measurer" actually operates. They take the measurements, write them down, and then the person making the pattern lops off the "appropriate" amount. The problem is that the measurer can easily screw up. Why should I even need my chest or shoulders measured when I know precisely how much extra/less I need as compared to the RTW model? If I know that the 39R in the Gibbons fits me perfectly in the chest, why does the measurer have to nonetheless take a tape measure to my chest, introducing the potential for screwing up? If I know that the 40R shoulder width fits me perfectly (which is .25" larger than the 39R), why do they nonehtless measure the shoulder width, a measurement rife with error potential? Why not just ASK ME what my ideal shoulder measurement is? BECAUSE THEY ASSUME THE CUSTOMER DOESN'T KNOW HIS OWN MEASUREMENTS.. This needs to change for MTM to be a better experience.
post #23 of 26
But with a little prodding, surely they would listen to you, since you are the customer and are shelling out $2.5k+ for their product. I imagine the Oxxford store on 57th street is used to dealing with forceful, demanding customers, no?
post #24 of 26
That is probably true, but sort of underscores that this isn't the default method. If I walked into the Oxxford store and said, "I'd like a MTM, please," this is the response I'd want the default exchange to be: "Have you worn or tried on Oxxford RTW before?" "Yes. I like the Gibbons model." "Do you know what areas of the RTW model you think need altering in your MTM pattern?" "[I'd then list them.]" "Very good. Let's just confirm those. Slip on this 39R Gibbons and 40R Gibbons and we'll make sure those adjustments will work." Instead, I imagine the default exchange is: "Okay, our tailor will measure you up in a few minutes. Take a seat on this beautiful club chair."
post #25 of 26
I guess I was trying to say that the Oxxford store, of all tailored clothing stores, would presumably be willing to modify their "default" exchange when dealing with a customer as knowledgeable as you, JN3.
post #26 of 26
I'm sure Oxxford would, PB. The problem is that there are many men that know their measurements well enough that the MTM would be more successful using my exchange, but a certain percentage of those men are probably not assertive enough to bark orders at the measurer.
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