RJ Man: Â care to be kind enough to discuss merits of RTW shirts off Jermyn St?
Argh... so much for my efforts to have an off-board social life... Well, it's bloody pissing in the (sartorial) Deliverance of Columbia so I might as well. Thing is I don't know all that about off-Jermyn makers. What exactly did you want to know? Names? RTW? Bespoke? Construction? Someone else on this board posted mentioning experience with Stephens Bros and Woods of Shropshire. Stephens Brothers (they have a website) are the shirtmakers to HRH the Duke of Edinburgh, everyone's favorite politically incorrect royal -- mine at least. I don't think they do bespoke; they appear to have the attributes of a Jermyn Street shirt although they don't always use two-fold cotton and someone said they might be made in Poland (which is why the price was somewhat less than the better-known makers). The other British non-Jermyn RTW I own is Richard James (for the last two years made in Slovakia) and Ede & Ravenscroft. While the cloth in RJ is nice and the construction better than in many designer shirts, it's not going to compare in durability to a T&A or Budd. I haven't opened the Ede shirt yet as it's in my ancient Goyard trunk of as yet unneeded Sea Island and cashmere pullovers, Jermyn Street, RJ and Charvet shirts, and Pantherella socks in every material and color. Bromleys carry other shirt names like Dominic Shortle, Cleeve and Anthony J Hewitt. Hewitt is a Savile Row tailor who phagocytosed tropicalwear tailors Airey & Wheeler. ANother forum member is essaying the shirts -- which obviously are made by a subcontractor. I'd imagine same deal with Shortle, who designed for Cordings and whose look is similar. Not sure what Cleeve is; the shirts look very good. What else, what else... there's Mark Stephen Marengo off Regent Street (some Arcade) -- sort of a poor man's last season's Richard James, more designer than maker... Coles was a classic shirtmaker with much military business that moved off Jermyn Street due to the rising rents... I was disappointed by their RTW as it didn't have some of the features it was supposed to, such as shell buttons or gussets. Many SR tailors will sell you a RTW shirt -- Gieves & Hawkes, Kilgour, Huntsman, E&R, Chester Barrie, Hewitt, Wheelers, Dege, Benson Clegg (OK, not strictly in the Row). Apart from Chester Barrie (not sure) I'm certain none of them made the shirts and that all come from some factory where they're made to varying specifications. Nothing wrong with factories; they're how almost all shirts even on Jermyn Street are made. Anyway. That's about all I know.