Gitman Brothers Vintage - Page 198

WvG, if you desire a very slim and cropped cut, like interesting fabrics and MOP buttons.  That is, if you want to shell out the initial cash to become a member, where you are basically locked in to buy a few shirts with a discount.  The discount really just brings the shirt to the normal price.  I can't imagine anyone buying it at full retail and that's sort of the point.  The construction of the actual shirt isn't as good as GBV.  

 

As for GBV, GB has been around forever, but the vintage line is fairly new.  They basically took the shirt and refined the cut to be more modern (slim), but they still retained the box pleat for movement, but it causes the back to be billow, which is undesirable.  So they went only 1/2 way on the slimness.  Also, they retained the white or chalk buttons because, as they put it, "they're cheap!" and clearly they have a lot of them.  The fabrics are really top notch.  It's really the shining star of the line.  They have the ability to source interesting and nice fabrics.  It's the vintage part of it.  They will go into their archives and pick a year and look at all the fabrics and use that as a springboard for each season.  Although other companies are catching up and are able to source similar fabrics nowadays.  

 

I've owned several WvG shirts and 10+ GBV shirts.   Sold a lot of them over time, kept a few of my favorites.  Just my opinion on these brands, no dog in the race, as I am very doubtful I will buy any shirts from either brand ever again.

 

WvG is having a sale (40% off) right now. I emailed Mauro and he said the sale would go on for a couple more weeks, and they also have new chinos and shorts coming in next week.

 

40% code is "summerfun"

 

 

Just fyi...I also can't imagine paying full retail for their shirts. They are good, but I don't spend ~$170 for shirts.

Edited by amathew - 8/2/12 at 9:27am

My point is for the amount of money you're spending on a shirt, it better fit close to perfect. This is SF isn't it? Box pleat is an eye sore. I haven't tried the other brands such as wvg, BOO or epaulet.

To each his own.

Why is that?

 

I'm curious. Why do a lot of people hate the box pleat? Does it cause it to be too poofy at the back or something?

 

Also is this only a problem for the GBV when they're tucked? Or do they still have the poofy/billowing effect when worn untucked?

The point of the box pleat, as described by GB was to allow greater range of movement.  This was a design of Gitman Bros like several decades ago.  Their target audience was factory and blue collar workers, not fashion or modern or anything like that.  

 

Yes, it makes it more poofy, less poofy if you tuck it in, but more still poofy than a shirt that doesn't have the pleat.  The vintage line slimmed everything down, but the pleat was retained, as it's one of their "signatures".  

Why would I care if people think I only have one or two shirts because I might wear a llama shirt once a week or so? Newsflash!: No one gives a shit about the stuff you wear and the intervals in which you wear them. Everyone wears the same clothes over and over, so they don't really give a shit. The "last season" comment is dumb, and I'm sure you can figure out why I'm saying that.

Here is the pitfall of Gitman basics: they're not that great. They're not made of carbon fiber. They don't breathe better than other oxfords. There is not a major difference in construction to put it above others for the price ($147 retail, $100 on sale white oxford). The fit isn't anything amazing. What does it have going for it? It has the name Gitman Vintage, which has been hyped all over heritage/j. crew prep/hip lumberjack blogs and shit for the past few years.

My argument is that you're deluding yourself into thinking that Gitman is oh so much better than all other shirt makers when really they aren't. Seriously, you can buy 5 basic oxfords or stripes or whatever at Uniqlo for the price of 1 Gitman if you're wearing this shit for work. Uniqlo isn't going to magically disintegrate in your hands or in the washer or even over the course of a year. If you haven't tried Uniqlo basics, I would suggest you head over to the thread and check them out. The Uniqlo oxfords aren't just "passable"; it's probably the best thing on the market right now for basics.

For the record, I own a bunch of Gitman prints, and have owned a lot of Gitman basics in the past as well as WvG, Band of Outsiders, Thom Browne, Epaulet, etc. Sold them all cause it wasn't worth the money, now it's Uniqlo for oxfords.

 

Thanks tonio.

 

For your information, the Small i ordered was too tight and the sleeves were ridiculously too short. I had to return it (thanks to Mr. Porter btw for their return policy).

I exchanged the Small one for a Medium. The Medium is perfect (sleeves, proportions, etc).

It fits me much better than BB1 (BB Black Fleece), Brooks Brothers "Small" or RL Purple label "Small".

I usually take 14.5/15 and 33/34.

Hope this helps.

Does anyone have measurements on an XS basic oxford?

IM 5'5 110lbs and was wondering if it would be too tight and long. Muji size S shirts fit real nice on me

 

 

Collar 13.5", sleeve length 32", shoulder to shoulder 16.5", chest 17.5"

(via official GV website)

There are measurements on ContextClothing: http://www.contextclothing.com/item.php?id=3460

 

Hope that helps

As a guy who has tried lots of different shirts, I would say that I never have to tailor my Gitman Vintage shirts. I cannot say the same for J. Crew (way too baggy in waist and arm circumference), Woolrich John Rich & Bros, or any other brand. Correction, 18 Waits' cotton gauze shirts (so comfortable) fit well. The point is, more "mainstream" designer clothing lines have always needed a trip to the tailor to get them done right, whereas I can wear my Gitman Vintage shirts right off the shelf.

YMMV, but that's my experience.

I know this isn't the sales thread, but I just thought I'd put these out here for regulars before I put it on B&S. I have 2 plaid Size Small shirts from the My Habit sale, that are way too small for me. I am usually a size Small, but didn't know you had to size up for the plaid that looks like Blackwatch, so these are essentially size XS.

The photo is here:
http://ec2.images-amazon.com/images/I/91ln3SX8vzL._SY1600_CR0,0,1190,1600_.jpg

I live in Canada, so had to pay shipping and duties, so the price is higher than the $60 I paid for it. If anyone's interested, let me know, thanks.

Yeah my XS Plaid shirt just came in from my habit and its tiny even for me, also lol that is the same shirt I got. Im probably going to ebay it

Just looking at the measurements on context clothing. the XS looks quite similar to the XS plaid I received. if I get a white oxford should i just get a size S?

althanis do you generally wear S in other shirts or just in other gitman shirts?
Edited by computurd - 8/8/12 at 8:02pm