The higher the number, the lighter the cloth, the more expensive, and the worse wearing.
Not exactly. Â The higher the number, the thinner the individual fibers. Â But even high-number (.i.e., small micron) yarns can be woven into thick cloth. Â It is not often done because it does not sell. Â The men who want Super 180s want wool that feels like a combination of cashmere and silk, and that weighs almost nothing. Â But a few companies (Lesser, for intance) carry 120s and 150s of considerable heft. That said, I generally agree that the higher you go, the harder the Supers are to tailor, and the worse it wears. Â In general. Â I don't think there is a clear cut-off point, however, because so much depends on other factors -- quality of the raw wool, length of individual yarns, weaving, finishing, etc. I've seen 120s that would do fine, and 100s that would be awful. I've also seen 80s that feel fantastic.