There are actually three really good reasons for this, I think: (1) I think that Italians generally wear their sleeves longer than Flusserians and the English. Â Just my sense. (2) Letterman wears very snug shirt cuffs. Â He is likely wearing his coat sleeves properly, but his shirt cuffs are just too snug to fall to the correct length. Â Pay close attention and you'll see I might be right. (3) Â In terms of regular guys, it is true that a lot of them don't know any better. Â But a good proportion probably do know better but don't want to spend the money shortening their sleeves, which is a $35 to $40 alteration, and one that you really need a competent tailor to do (I've seen some appalling work done on sleeves by dry cleaners). Â I seriously doubt any man buys an OTR coat with well fitting sleeves and then takes it to the tailor with instructions to make them longer.
I was at the tailor's shop today. Â He's an elderly Italian gentleman, 86 years old, poor health, and can bitch about anything - in full color. Â Anyway, while bragging about what a wonderful job he had done on a particularly difficult jacket for me, and complaining about my attention to detail (which I pay for), he recounted this tale. Guy comes in with some pants. Â Well known, very wealthy. Â Trouser pockets are too short - can they be fixed? OK. Â Replace pockets $20. Â Or . . . Tip the pockets - simply add something on the bottom - $5.00. Guy says to Tip them. On the way out of the store, he turns with a thought. "Just do the right side, I never use the left." Following that story, I got the update on the University Prof who did not want to pay the $60 to have the collar shortened. Â Reportedly had a 3/4 inch gap at the neck in a custom made "Indian Tailor" suit - however that translates from Italian. Â So, here is a Sweedish guy, Internationaly Traveling University Prof, who has the problem pointed out to him. Â Response - "Money Doesn't grow on Trees." Â His internationally tailored suit will make him appear to be a smuck and he either does not understand or does not care. Â Some of the finer details of fit are a bit subtle. Â A big gap or roll behind the collar is something any dumb butt can see. Â It is not a mater of preference of shoulder style, waist supression, flair of the skirt, button placement, or stiffness of the chest piece. Â That man does not want to pay $60 to make it look better. Â The cost of a few cocktails at some moderately swankey NYC bubble bar. Â Amazing.