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First chan suit - Page 2

post #16 of 21
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(DandySF @ May 24 2005,16:32) The lapel rolls down to the middle button. The top button is virtually behind or within the lapel roll.
Err... and what is the problem of that?
Kind of my first thought about this business as well. There is certainly nothing offbeat about this. My best sport coat (a Ralph Lauren I picked up about 8 years ago, dunno the vendor but made in USA) has this feature.
post #17 of 21
Thread Starter 
How many of you make another appointment after you get your suit just to let Patrick take a look at it and see what he should change. It seems to me that he has a good eye and will tell you what he needs to change. Or is it more proactive where you have to tell him the details? I wonder if I can get more waist suppression but Patrick mentioned that if you get too much, it would look too much like a skirt. On me at least - apparently I have big legs.
post #18 of 21
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How many of you make another appointment after you get your suit just to let Patrick take a look at it and see what he should change. It seems to me that he has a good eye and will tell you what he needs to change. Or is it more proactive where you have to tell him the details? I wonder if I can get more waist suppression but Patrick mentioned that if you get too much, it would look too much like a skirt. On me at least - apparently I have big legs.
I would guess that many (most? all?) of the forumites who use WW Chan have made multiple orders, in which case you are definitely going to see them more than once. They ask you to wear your most recent suit when you show up for repeat appointments. You can discuss alteration work with them and they will have you ship the suit back to HK for the work. Their former general manager Raymond Kiang used to do all of the US tours. When I went back for a second order he did suggest some tweaks to the original suit. He also advised against making some adjustments that I was considering, and was probably correct in doing so. Patrick seems to have the same approach, though I've only met with him once. Can't help you on the waist suppression issue (sight unseen) but too much suppression definitely can look odd.
post #19 of 21
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(naturlaut @ May 24 2005,18:10)
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Originally Posted by DandySF,May 24 2005,16:32
The lapel rolls down to the middle button.  The top button is virtually behind or within the lapel roll.
Err... and what is the problem of that?
Kind of my first thought about this business as well. There is certainly nothing offbeat about this. My best sport coat (a Ralph Lauren I picked up about 8 years ago, dunno the vendor but made in USA) has this feature.
Well, it is a Neapolitan tradition that many others have caught on (Brioni has a model with this roll-to-second-button lapel). The thing is, not many tailors in Hong Kong know about this, or have the ability to do it, even though it is actually not that difficult. As Patrick is trained as a cutter himself (20 years with the firm, I might add), he has a pretty good eye. If you are seeing him personally, you should definitely discuss what you want while keeping an open ear for his advice. From my experiences, most mistakes come from the workers/tailors upstairs (one floor above the shop). Never have I seen so many mistakes in all my tailoring experiences than the tailors I've used in Hong Kong. Up till now, I haven't received a single commission without some kind of careless mistakes (wrong cuff, wrong pocket, wrong buttoning position, wrong collar, etc.). One thing good about bigger establishments in Hong Kong like Chan or Chang is that they will gracefully correct their mistakes, even when incurring a loss to the firm; other smaller shops will make a big fuss about it. Please note: I am not trying to make a racist remark, but the statistic is really appalling. In conclusion: check your suit/shirt for any mistakes, and check carefully.
post #20 of 21
My perceived problem has vanished. When the jacket arrived in February I took it out of the FedEx box and placed it on a hanger. Evidently the lapels were somewhat flattened. I'd always intended to gently press out the slight crease with an iron. This morning I pressed the jacket front and the lapels now fall in a wonderful three dimensional roll. Finally the jacket looks as I'd always intended. It's as if it came to life and bloomed. The buttonhole now is nearly perpendicular to the jacket front, rather than parallel--a vast and satisfying improvement.
post #21 of 21
I think 3 button rolled into 2 button lapels look really really sharp and timeless. I am very fortunete that I own such styled Brioni sportcoat thanks to naturlaut.
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