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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 3749

post #56221 of 57872
Quote:
Originally Posted by ino68 View Post

I found the Somelos Oxford to be way too long, great for tucking in, but impossible to wear untucked!

(5'9", size small)

I had the same issue (5'10", medium). YMMV but a quick wash and run through the dryer shrunk up the length a bit for me. Still on the longer side of my casual shirts, but much more wearable untucked now.

post #56222 of 57872
Quote:
Originally Posted by forsan View Post

I had the same issue (5'10", medium). YMMV but a quick wash and run through the dryer shrunk up the length a bit for me. Still on the longer side of my casual shirts, but much more wearable untucked now.

Interesting, can anyone on the taller side chime in? I'm 6'2" and I add an extra inch to the medium individualized shirts so I can tuck them in.
post #56223 of 57872
I'm 6'5" and the XL Somelos oxford is great for body and sleeve length
post #56224 of 57872
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik Telford View Post


Interesting, can anyone on the taller side chime in? I'm 6'2" and I add an extra inch to the medium individualized shirts so I can tuck them in.

I'm 6'0" with a longer than average torso.  The medium Somelos stays well tucked in, with the second-to-last buttonhole hitting at my waistband.  Untucked, the shirt just about totally covers both crotch and seat.  

post #56225 of 57872
I'm 6 / 6'1" and the length of the medium is great. Here's a medium tucked and untucked.

I can't usually wear the regular EPNY shirts tucked and I also add length to the Individualized MTO working off a Medium starting point.



post #56226 of 57872

Much appreciated gents! I might just get in on the EFF then.

post #56227 of 57872
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik Telford View Post


Interesting, can anyone on the taller side chime in? I'm 6'2" and I add an extra inch to the medium individualized shirts so I can tuck them in.

I'm 5'7" on a good day, but with short legs and a lonnnng torso.  I add an inch to the XS Individualized shirts, and sometimes wonder if I need two... :D

 

I'm always a little afraid of RTW shirts because 99% of them end up untucked even if they were tucked in...

post #56228 of 57872

anyone see my comment about the Somelos collar collapsing to the sides a bit as the day goes on?  Anyone else have that issue?  

post #56229 of 57872

Hey guys!

 

Here's the status on our two projects: 

 

WAFFLE KNIT REMAKE

I'll get full measurements from Northern Watters tomorrow - at least what they should be. If the current sweaters don't match that, we'll figure out what went wrong. They're totally on board, so don't stress, we're gonna nail this/ 

 

 

ENDS FOR FRIENDS SHIRTING

 

I just finished shooting all of the fabrics, and this stuff is gonna blow your mind! It is indeed made in Portugal! I must be the only dude in the history of this business to fly 18 hours to spend two days in a warehouse cutting swatches. But the result is truly next level pricing and fabrics: 

 

We'll have three price points, $85, $100, and $110. The majority of offerings will be $100. Some novelty things and Somelos oxfords will be $85, and some really premium fabrics - mostly Albini and Canclini - will be $110. 

 

Everything is made up in our stock shape, with a full roll buttondown collar, chest pocket, and resin buttons. The size chart will be the same one that we've used for Gitman Bros ends for friends. 

 

For these initial Portuguese shirts, we used two factories: one for the Somelos oxfords and one for the denim shirts. Although the sizing is very close, I agree: the denim shirts have a slightly better make and details. We're gonna tweak that collar a bit too and make the perfect BD, which will look very close to the BD shape that Individualized uses. 

 

We've been selling more or less the same shape since 2009, so the stock fit will work for the majority of you guys. And while nothing compares to having a custom Individualized shirt, the majority of orders that I enter are pretty close to our stock sizing, and these fabrics are killer. Pretty much the same goods that Individualized would use. So I think it makes sense all around. 

 

Can't wait to show you everything! I have some fun pics and videos from the factory too. 

post #56230 of 57872
Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaCal View Post
 

@Epaulet when running tomorrows EFF please consider using the details and fit of the single rinse Portugal Denim shirt.  

 

I'm not sure what it is, but the fit on the denim is much better then the Oxford for some reason.  I'm not wearing the tight either, issue is in the pit, its like there is too much chest, and not enough back.

 

Plus, I think the shallow box pleat and the 2.0 Bond collar is the bees knees.  Only other suggestion I'd be in favor of is a second button on the cuffs for those of us with slimmer wrists.

 

 

Can't wait to see the swatches

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post
 

Hey guys!

 

Here's the status on our two projects: 

 

WAFFLE KNIT REMAKE

I'll get full measurements from Northern Watters tomorrow - at least what they should be. If the current sweaters don't match that, we'll figure out what went wrong. They're totally on board, so don't stress, we're gonna nail this/ 

 

 

ENDS FOR FRIENDS SHIRTING

 

I just finished shooting all of the fabrics, and this stuff is gonna blow your mind! It is indeed made in Portugal! I must be the only dude in the history of this business to fly 18 hours to spend two days in a warehouse cutting swatches. But the result is truly next level pricing and fabrics: 

 

We'll have three price points, $85, $100, and $110. The majority of offerings will be $100. Some novelty things and Somelos oxfords will be $85, and some really premium fabrics - mostly Albini and Canclini - will be $110. 

 

Everything is made up in our stock shape, with a full roll buttondown collar, chest pocket, and resin buttons. The size chart will be the same one that we've used for Gitman Bros ends for friends. 

 

For these initial Portuguese shirts, we used two factories: one for the Somelos oxfords and one for the denim shirts. Although the sizing is very close, I agree: the denim shirts have a slightly better make and details. We're gonna tweak that collar a bit too and make the perfect BD, which will look very close to the BD shape that Individualized uses. 

 

We've been selling more or less the same shape since 2009, so the stock fit will work for the majority of you guys. And while nothing compares to having a custom Individualized shirt, the majority of orders that I enter are pretty close to our stock sizing, and these fabrics are killer. Pretty much the same goods that Individualized would use. So I think it makes sense all around. 

 

Can't wait to show you everything! I have some fun pics and videos from the factory too. 

 

I have some annoying fit questions.  Is the stock pattern for Gitman EFF (and this EFF) the same as what you used for the Somelos oxfords?  The Somelos fits much better for me than other stock sizes have--including Gitman--so if the pattern is the same, I assume it just has something to do with the way the factories do their thing.  A Gitman large is too long in sleeve/body (and baggier than I'd like), but a medium is too tight in the chest.  

 

@Epaulet,

 

Just to confirm, these will be made in the factory that made the denim shirts?  

 

Assuming that they are...

 

@CanadaCal,

 

Are you saying that the overall roominess of the Somelos oxford and denim is about the same, but that the way the shirt lies/moves is just better in the denim?  

 

Many thanks for any info you can provide.  

post #56231 of 57872

Hey Mike can we expect any RTW shirts with the smaller collars (eg compact point) coming up? I got a neck like a toad so the full BD collar is pretty much a no go.

post #56232 of 57872
Quote:
Originally Posted by janoy89 View Post
 

Hey Mike can we expect any RTW shirts with the smaller collars (eg compact point) coming up? I got a neck like a toad so the full BD collar is pretty much a no go.

 

@janoy89 honestly, probably not. The reason is simply differentiation. Most of our existing customers prefer the higher stance, bolder collars that we offer. 


For new customers, it can give them a reason to buy our shirts vs another brand. Most of the SF crowd knows that our shirts are a great value for the price, but a new guy coming to the site is only really comparing the overall look and feel. Since most shirts out there are done with smaller collars, the bolder ones that we use make things stand out more. I'm aiming to keep our stock program as tight and as effective as possible, so I'll most likely just run one buttondown (the existing one) and one point collar (the Artisan for stock dress shirts). 

 

That said, I'd really encourage you to check out the Individualized PT collar - it's the best compact collar that I've ever seen. The proportions are perfect. One of their pieces costs significantly more than a stock shirt, but you an play with so many details and really get a killer piece. Especially with basics like the Albini British Oxford for $160. It's $65 more than our Somelos piece, but you're getting full customization and a more expensive, Italian fabric. So each one can stand on its own merits. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickpapagiorgio View Post
 

 

 

 

I have some annoying fit questions.  Is the stock pattern for Gitman EFF (and this EFF) the same as what you used for the Somelos oxfords?  The Somelos fits much better for me than other stock sizes have--including Gitman--so if the pattern is the same, I assume it just has something to do with the way the factories do their thing.  A Gitman large is too long in sleeve/body (and baggier than I'd like), but a medium is too tight in the chest.  

 

@Epaulet,

 

Just to confirm, these will be made in the factory that made the denim shirts?  

 

Assuming that they are...

 

@CanadaCal,

 

Are you saying that the overall roominess of the Somelos oxford and denim is about the same, but that the way the shirt lies/moves is just better in the denim?  

 

Many thanks for any info you can provide.  

 

@nickpapagiorgio The pattern is always the same, but each factory has different means of construction. On a scale of smaller to bigger, it's worked as such: 

 

SMALLER...  New England - Gitman - Denim Shirts - Somelos Oxfords ...BIGGER

 

That said, we're talking relatively small differences, so most guys would take the same size in each (I do). But it may mean sizing up or down for someone on the very edge. 

 

Overall, my aim is to have these EFF pieces fit in between the Gitman and Denim Shirts. In your particular case, as you're right on the edge, I'd advise a Medium if you're getting a flannel, a brushed twill, or an oxford, as they will make up bigger than a thin fabric. You'd probably want to avoid something like a linen or a poplin. 

post #56233 of 57872

Oh and I'll be on hand all day tomorrow to discuss the fabrics, but let me just leave this here: 

 

GETZNER FLANNELS

 

We have two of them. It's an Austrian mill that makes some of the greatest cotton flannels in the world. Really thick and old-school. And you guys know that I'm an Austria fan. The stuff is amazing and I'd call it the pick of the entire litter. They'll be in the flannel item. It's too late to do anything with stock for this year, but bet your ass we'll be running Getzner flannels as a rad high end stock program next Fall. 

post #56234 of 57872
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post
 

 

@janoy89 honestly, probably not. The reason is simply differentiation. Most of our existing customers prefer the higher stance, bolder collars that we offer. 


For new customers, it can give them a reason to buy our shirts vs another brand. Most of the SF crowd knows that our shirts are a great value for the price, but a new guy coming to the site is only really comparing the overall look and feel. Since most shirts out there are done with smaller collars, the bolder ones that we use make things stand out more. I'm aiming to keep our stock program as tight and as effective as possible, so I'll most likely just run one buttondown (the existing one) and one point collar (the Artisan for stock dress shirts). 

 

That said, I'd really encourage you to check out the Individualized PT collar - it's the best compact collar that I've ever seen. The proportions are perfect. One of their pieces costs significantly more than a stock shirt, but you an play with so many details and really get a killer piece. Especially with basics like the Albini British Oxford for $160. It's $65 more than our Somelos piece, but you're getting full customization and a more expensive, Italian fabric. So each one can stand on its own merits.

 

That's cool, makes sense.

 

And beat you there, got a beaded oxford with that collar on the way.

post #56235 of 57872
@epaulet so for the waffleknits, should we just wait till you post measurements before submitting the google form? Just want to be sure. As a side note, I'll be interested to see the Portugal shirting options. The somelos fit amazing when I tried one in the shop.
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