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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 3701

post #55501 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Medoc View Post
 

What type of Epaulet collar / lining would you guys recommend for a Individualized flannel fabric that I'm trying to keep on the really casual side, worn with jeans and chinos and trainers.  Having a tough time deciding.  Thanks. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post
 

Good call @FrankCowperwood - I'd agree. We're doing a lot of New Bond Collars and Artisans on flannel orders recently. 

 

Any buttondown collar will be made with light lining - so just a thin piece of interlining sitting inside the collar. If you choose a non-buttondown like the PT, Fashion Spread, or Artisan then we'll do "Ladies Light Fusing," which gives a soft collar that still keeps it shape. We do this by default. 

 

Ladies Love Light Lining would be a great name for a #menswear hip-hop group. (Just gotta make sure James Todd Smith isn't in a litigious mood.)

 

Call me old fashioned but I love the Individualized button down collar for a casual shirt. I got three Fall 2016 shirts done with this collar. This being said, I have the Artisan with LLLining in some shirts and it's an incredible collar if you either (1) have a dressy fabric, or (2) have any fabric with a medium-scale pattern, like the Rezzo Brushed Twills, the Rapallo/Taviano Flannels, the Sovereign Melange Ginghams, or the Saranac Brushed Twills. My vote is always for a big, lightly lined/unlined button down collar, but substantial spread/non-BD collars like the Artisan look incredible with some good pattern in them.

post #55502 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post
 

 

 

Ladies Love Light Lining would be a great name for a #menswear hip-hop group. (Just gotta make sure James Todd Smith isn't in a litigious mood.)

 

Call me old fashioned but I love the Individualized button down collar for a casual shirt. I got three Fall 2016 shirts done with this collar. This being said, I have the Artisan with LLLining in some shirts and it's an incredible collar if you either (1) have a dressy fabric, or (2) have any fabric with a medium-scale pattern, like the Rezzo Brushed Twills, the Rapallo/Taviano Flannels, the Sovereign Melange Ginghams, or the Saranac Brushed Twills. My vote is always for a big, lightly lined/unlined button down collar, but substantial spread/non-BD collars like the Artisan look incredible with some good pattern in them.

I agree as well and I love button down collars, the difficult is that after a while you get tons of shirts with them. It can feel really boring to keep choosing the same collar type over and over. BD collars are probably my absolute favorite but its like eating your favorite food every day, sure its good but after a while it just feels tiring.

post #55503 of 57687
There's something to be said for taking advantage of the individualized process and getting a collar that's not otherwise commonly available.
post #55504 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik Telford View Post
 

I agree as well and I love button down collars, the difficult is that after a while you get tons of shirts with them. It can feel really boring to keep choosing the same collar type over and over. BD collars are probably my absolutely favorite but its like eating your favorite food every day, sure its good but after a while it just feels tiring.

 

I completely understand what you're saying, but I have a different perspective on it. For me, once I figured out what kinds of collars really work well for my narrow face -- wide spreads/cutaways for dress, large-ish BDs for casual, and either for "crossover" -- I've found it so great to be able to have those reliably at my beck and call, just like a precise, dialed-in fit on a garment. I totally get the urge to experiment; it's just that for me, I tend to do that more with different fabrics and (especially) textures rather than different collars. But if you want to experiment with collars, as @FrankCowperwood says, that's great too.

 

Also part of this is that I just prefer BD collars underneath sweaters, and any casual shirt I own is going to get worn underneath a sweater when fall arrives -- which, right now, is a ludicrous thought as New York reaches new levels of heat insanity.

post #55505 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post
 

 

I completely understand what you're saying, but I have a different perspective on it. For me, once I figured out what kinds of collars really work well for my narrow face -- wide spreads/cutaways for dress, large-ish BDs for casual, and either for "crossover" -- I've found it so great to be able to have those reliably at my beck and call, just like a precise, dialed-in fit on a garment. I totally get the urge to experiment; it's just that for me, I tend to do that more with different fabrics and (especially) textures rather than different collars.

 

Also part of this is that I just prefer BD collars underneath sweaters, and any casual shirt I own is going to get worn underneath a sweater when fall arrives -- which, right now, is a ludicrous thought as New York reaches new levels of heat insanity.

Fair enough I do understand where you come from, I agree that BD are the best looking collar for being combined with sweaters. I can't say that experimenting has always worked out in my favor haha. I opted for a band collar a while back and I just dont care for it, I honestly regret not going for a button-down on it. I do enjoy the process of messing around with shirts though. I have a curved collar coming to me soon which im really curious about. Of all the BD collars I've seen I do like Individualized the best though. 

 

I live in Canada and the heat is unbearable here as well. Its been hitting 91 here regularly and its been extremely humid. Its too hot to even think about sweaters but I just ordered one and am paying the balance for two others soon.

post #55506 of 57687
Yup. No point in novelty for its own sake if it gets you a shirt that doesn't work for you.
post #55507 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

Yup. No point in novelty for its own sake if it gets you a shirt that doesn't work for you.

True the difficulty is figuring out when you just want something for the sake of novelty and when it will actually work for you.

post #55508 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik Telford View Post
 

Fair enough I do understand where you come from, I agree that BD are the best looking collar for being combined with sweaters. I can't say that experimenting has always worked out in my favor haha. I opted for a band collar a while back and I just dont care for it, I honestly regret not going for a button-down on it. I do enjoy the process of messing around with shirts though. I have a curved collar coming to me soon which im really curious about. Of all the BD collars I've seen I do like Individualized the best though. 

 

I live in Canada and the heat is unbearable here as well. Its been hitting 91 here regularly and its been extremely humid. Its too hot to even think about sweaters but I just ordered one and am paying the balance for two others soon.

 

Do post pics of the curved collar when you get it!

 

It is difficult to go outside here without melting.

 

With all this posting and opining, I figure I should share what I actually got, so, my recent orders:

 

DJA Sea Island 170s Navy Cross Check (X59NBC-Z)

This done in LL Artisan collar, mitered cuff, V-stitch pocket

 

Brevanna Peached Twill Oak & Navy Gingham (S69TKC-L)

Canclini Melton Brushed Cotton Mocha Houndstooth (V91TBK-O)

Canclini Melton Brushed Cotton Navy Houndstooth (V83BBC-O)

These done in Buttondown collar, regular cuff, V-stitch pocket

 

Considering a fifth to make it four-for-five. Seriously considering that Thomas Mason blue linen irregular stripe shirt posted a few pages back, or the 3-ply Oxford in the British-ish hunting tattersall. I also like the pink-and-blue 3-ply oxford tattersall in theory, but the pink looks close enough to gray that it might read like Dodger colors from a distance, so that's out.

post #55509 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post
 

 

Do post pics of the curved collar when you get it!

 

It is difficult to go outside here without melting.

 

With all this posting and opining, I figure I should share what I actually got, so, my recent orders:

 

DJA Sea Island 170s Navy Cross Check (X59NBC-Z)

This done in LL Artisan collar, mitered cuff, V-stitch pocket

 

Brevanna Peached Twill Oak & Navy Gingham (S69TKC-L)

Canclini Melton Brushed Cotton Mocha Houndstooth (V91TBK-O)

Canclini Melton Brushed Cotton Navy Houndstooth (V83BBC-O)

These done in Buttondown collar, regular cuff, V-stitch pocket

 

Considering a fifth to make it four-for-five. Seriously considering that Thomas Mason blue linen irregular stripe shirt posted a few pages back, or the 3-ply Oxford in the British-ish hunting tattersall. I also like the pink-and-blue 3-ply oxford tattersall in theory, but the pink looks close enough to gray that it might read like Dodger colors from a distance, so that's out.

Good choices on those! I love the TM irregular blue but my only concern would be that by the time you get it would it be wearable? I always hate when I order seasonal items and they come in right at the end of the season. The 3-ply hunting tattersal is a solid choice and I think it would look really killer under a sweater, a jacket, or both. I was really tempted by it myself but I have two tattersalls already and opted for the regular blue and the blue line 3-ply. Since three of the shirts you got are fairly casual I think it would balance out your order as well since it can be dressed up or down. 

post #55510 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik Telford View Post
 

Good choices on those! I love the TM irregular blue but my only concern would be that by the time you get it would it be wearable? I always hate when I order seasonal items and they come in right at the end of the season. The 3-ply hunting tattersal is a solid choice and I think it would look really killer under a sweater, a jacket, or both. I was really tempted by it myself but I have two tattersalls already and opted for the regular blue and the blue line 3-ply. Since three of the shirts you got are fairly casual I think it would balance out your order as well since it can be dressed up or down. 

 

Thanks! Will post photos when they come in. The folks at the Orchard St store might just take photos of those shirts anyway since I'm local to them. NYC is hot enough that the TM irregular blue would likely be wearable-ish. And I actually tend to wear "spring/summer" shirts underneath sweaters during cold weather to avoid overheating, but tend not to do that with linen... so 3-ply might be the ticket.

 

Ironically given all the collar talk above, I'm debating whether or not to get the 3-ply hunting tattersall in a BD or Artisan collar. Leaning BD ofc, especially as a fabric as substantial as that would hold up very well under a jacket no matter the collar, but am also keenly aware how boss it would look as an Artisan. Like Natalie Imbruglia, I'm torn. EDIT: no longer torn, getting the BD. The real question is whether to get the mitered (palazzo) cuff or regular cuff for the 3-ply.

post #55511 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post
 

 

Thanks! Will post photos when they come in. The folks at the Orchard St store might just take photos of those shirts anyway since I'm local to them. NYC is hot enough that the TM irregular blue would likely be wearable-ish. And I actually tend to wear "spring/summer" shirts underneath sweaters during cold weather to avoid overheating, but tend not to do that with linen... so 3-ply might be the ticket.

 

Ironically given all the collar talk above, I'm debating whether or not to get the 3-ply hunting tattersall in a BD or Artisan collar. Leaning BD ofc, especially as a fabric as substantial as that would hold up very well under a jacket no matter the collar, but am also keenly aware how boss it would look as an Artisan. Like Natalie Imbruglia, I'm torn. EDIT: no longer torn, getting the BD. The real question is whether to get the mitered (palazzo) cuff or regular cuff for the 3-ply.

I'm a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to Oxfords. I prefer them with a BD but I do agree this one would look good with an artisan. I'd do BD myself in this case. I'm not huge on the mitered cuffs, I stick with regular cuffs on all my orders. 

post #55512 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

 

@TO Tie Guy yup, Rivet Chino EFF this week, probably on Thursday. We'll also do 10% off all Hertling MTO's this week. 

Any Rudy MTO coming up with new fabrics?

post #55513 of 57687
Yeah... Fall fabrics will come in a couple days.
post #55514 of 57687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nik Telford View Post

True the difficulty is figuring out when you just want something for the sake of novelty and when it will actually work for you.

Very true. I usually have to give something new a try to see if it works.
post #55515 of 57687
Mike,
I'm good on the price for the alterations on the pants. I made the decision to keep them due to being an awesome fabric.
BTW, the inner sewn in tag said 34, the outer, paper tag sewn into the waist said 32. The inner tag was the correct size.
As far as I'm concerned, case closed and I recognize shouldn't even have posted here, but sent you a PM instead just to let you know for future quality control.
Case closed, nothing to see here, move along
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