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beez

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Hey guys,

I have a tailoring question for you. All of my Epaulet sport coats fit well in the shoulders and chest, but I have bunching to varying degrees in the back of the collar on all of them.

Looks like this:

Is this really as easy a fix as the description says? Have any of you guys had your tailor "lower the collar"?

My tailor is above average IMO, but he won't touch it. He says it can't be done.
Weird. Same thing happens to me with my cashmere Sameulsohn. I will think about this...
 

El Argentino

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Asked this in the "Quick Question" thread w/o response, but it deals particularly w/ EP pants so I'll throw it up here too:

Moving out of denim and chinos into more and more wool slacks:

What is the best way to prevent wool from eventually getting to that "shiny" stage? How best to store, how does wear play into that, etc? How do I keep shininess away from my wool pants for as long as possible?


I'm loving my wool RCs from last year, but worried that wearing them too much/hard will get them to that shiny phase from which I assume there's no return. Anyone w/ any thoughts, advice, etc?
 

brp2

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Weird. Same thing happens to me with my cashmere Sameulsohn. I will think about this...

As noted above, this is a really common issue with sport coats / suit jackets, and it's also an easy fix for a tailor. I don't think I've had a single coat -- even semi-custom ones -- that haven't required some degree of neck work.
 

Artking3

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Hey guys,

I have a tailoring question for you. All of my Epaulet sport coats fit well in the shoulders and chest, but I have bunching to varying degrees in the back of the collar on all of them.

Looks like this:
400


Is this really as easy a fix as the description says? Have any of you guys had your tailor "lower the collar"?

My tailor is above average IMO, but he won't touch it. He says it can't be done.


Almost all my jackets had bunching under the collar. My tailor fixed every single one. He is a licensed Master Tailor, and he's the only person I let touch my suits and sport coats.
 

jt2gt

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A. Congrats on the little one...awesome.

B. Anyone have a real world pic of the Russet Tweed Walts...more orange or brown/Khaki?

thanks...JT
 

joshg8

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Asked this in the "Quick Question" thread w/o response, but it deals particularly w/ EP pants so I'll throw it up here too:
I'm loving my wool RCs from last year, but worried that wearing them too much/hard will get them to that shiny phase from which I assume there's no return. Anyone w/ any thoughts, advice, etc?

Would a fabric brush work to restore some of the "nep" and reduce some of the shininess like a suede brush can do for shoes? I just picked one up from Amazon that is good at restoring the look of anything from suit jackets to sweaters and most importantly for me removes the dog hair like a reusable/better lint roller.
 

Don L

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A. Congrats on the little one...awesome.

B. Anyone have a real world pic of the Russet Tweed Walts...more orange or brown/Khaki?

thanks...JT
More Orange/Brown than Khaki.

 

about11oclock

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Mike, (when you have a chance) are there still plans for a washed university stripe oxford from EPLA?

Thanks!
 

StanleyVanBuren

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Asked this in the "Quick Question" thread w/o response, but it deals particularly w/ EP pants so I'll throw it up here too:
Quote:
I can't speak with too much authority here but my understanding is that too much dry cleaning is how you get there. Cheaper wools are more prone this, too. So if you go stock up at Mens Wearhouse and dry clean after each wear, you'll get there fast. I think the wools that Epaulet uses are less prone to this but you still want to dry clean sparingly (once or twice a year or if actually dirty).

I don't think purely wearing them will have a significant impact, but if it does, there's no getting around that... it's not like there'd be any point to not wearing an item that's meant to be worn.

Of course, if you do get to that "shiny" stage and you think the pants are ruined anyway, try giving them a light sanding. Worth a shot, right? (5)
 

El Argentino

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I can't speak with too much authority here but my understanding is that too much dry cleaning is how you get there. Cheaper wools are more prone this, too. So if you go stock up at Mens Wearhouse and dry clean after each wear, you'll get there fast. I think the wools that Epaulet uses are less prone to this but you still want to dry clean sparingly (once or twice a year or if actually dirty).

I don't think purely wearing them will have a significant impact, but if it does, there's no getting around that... it's not like there'd be any point to not wearing an item that's meant to be worn.

Of course, if you do get to that "shiny" stage and you think the pants are ruined anyway, try giving them a light sanding. Worth a shot, right? (5)


Haha - perhaps.

Awesome, thanks for the info.
 

el es dee

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Just received my first pair of Rivets today and they are beautiful pants, but they don't fit at all! This is strange to me because I ordered the same size as my walts and I cant even button the waist closed. Is there a chance that they were mislabeled during production?
 

kwanon

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Of course, if you do get to that "shiny" stage and you think the pants are ruined anyway, try giving them a light sanding. Worth a shot, right? (5)
Not a crazy idea but please start with something relatively fine like 600. It will feel rather smooth to your fingers but I doubt your pants would agree.
 

Epaulet

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Hey guys! Thanks so much for all of the kind words - Adele and I really appreciate it. We received a lot of notes from our customers from all over social media, and it means so much. We're thrilled with the new arrival and settling in to this twilight zone of no sleep and explosive poop cleaning nicely. And altmana - a huge congrats from us as well! Let me just post up the Fit Contest Poll once again: http://www.styleforum.net/t/379504/epaulet-fit-contest-polling-thread-closes-thursday-2-13/0_90 Please click over there when you can and cast your votes. The polling ends on Thursday, and as NYI wrote, "it takes balls to post a fit pic on the Internet," so let's make it worth their while!
Mike, (when you have a chance) are there still plans for a washed university stripe oxford from EPLA? Thanks!
Absolutely. We're going to roll out EPLA shirts a bit slowly, but it's my goal to have about 12-15 stock styles by June, and that would include at least one University Stripe OCBD.
Almost all my jackets had bunching under the collar. My tailor fixed every single one. He is a licensed Master Tailor, and he's the only person I let touch my suits and sport coats.
Would a fabric brush work to restore some of the "nep" and reduce some of the shininess like a suede brush can do for shoes? I just picked one up from Amazon that is good at restoring the look of anything from suit jackets to sweaters and most importantly for me removes the dog hair like a reusable/better lint roller.
@ El Argentino (sorry, not sure why it won't let me quote your original post) Wool becoming shiny with wear and dry cleaning is something that I remember from my first years of working. I had two Hugo Boss suits and alternated them from one day to the next. I must have dry cleaned them at least once a week, maybe more. I remember them taking a shine pretty quickly, maybe after a few months. Since then, I actually haven't had that happen on any other trousers or sportcoats. Part of that is having a much larger rotation of garments and dry cleaning them very infrequently. But I also believe that higher quality wool (that Hugo Boss stuff was probably crap) is also more resistant to this effect. But there's definitely some things that you can do: 1) You can worry about flannels and tweeds less. Smooth fabrics are more apt to take on a shine, so I wouldn't stress too much about those Rivet Chinos. 2) If you have a basic grey or navy pant that you like and wear all of the time, then buy at least one more of them. Two trousers (like two pairs of shoes) will always last more than twice as long as one. There is a definite truth to giving fine clothing a "cool-down" period 3) Use dry cleaning as sparingly as possible. Even without a shine, dry cleaning will degrade your clothing over time and accelerate its aging. As wool loses its oils, it become brittle and more likely to break and shred. As a rule, don't dry clean anything unless it really needs it. I only dry clean trousers if I spill something on them or sweat in them like crazy. Most trousers and sportcoats are totally fine if you hang them up and give them a day to air out. 4) For guys who need to dress more formally for work, many of them dry clean more for a neat and pressed look than for actual cleaning. If this is the case, then consider buying a quality steamer and trouser press. The steamer will knock out any wrinkles in your jacket. And trouser presses will give you a sharp crease if you want one. They'll pay for themselves pretty quickly with what you save on cleaning. And your clothing will last longer. 5) I've never personally owned one, but I've known guys who swear by Kent Brushes. If you're going to brush your trousers, I imagine that this would yield the best results: http://www.kentbrushes.com/shopexd.asp?id=51&catid=49
As noted above, this is a really common issue with sport coats / suit jackets, and it's also an easy fix for a tailor. I don't think I've had a single coat -- even semi-custom ones -- that haven't required some degree of neck work.
Yes, this neck bump is pretty common. Most of the time it's minimal or non-existent on our customers, but for some guys (me included), a part of your shoulders, upper back, or traps is simply not in the pattern and extra fabric ends up bunching up there. It's not necessarily an easy fix, but it is a common one, and a real menswear tailor should be able to handle it.
thanks! nothing special, just Clarks DBs but in a color that apparently is only available from the UK -- "amber gold suede" here is today:
the ever-elusive successful(?) sport coat + tie + denim combination​
Epaulet Marcello Jacket​
I love this look. You see this type of thing in Italy all of the time. I'm really a fan of checked jackets and light washed jeans. We'll bring out both of them soon!
Here's mine, and my BRAND NEW EpLA Sweatshirt. I love it. I've basically been living in these jeans and my W&H stuff this winter. Glad to add this to "complete" my uniform...fit is great, better on me than the W&H where I'm a medarge. This is a medium, and spot on. Underneath is the EpauletNY Denim Shirt. Grabbed the Denim Western shirt yesterday, and will be in that tomorrow...also a great addition. Stoked about the LA line, and especially about the West Coast pricing...great stuff!
IMG_8325_zps007c3fd6.jpg
Thank you sir, and glad that you dig it! Sweatshirt looks like a perfect fit on you.
 
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El Argentino

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Mike, thank you for the informed response.
 

CPaul

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Mike,
I emailed the contact email the other day for a return. I understand you might be busy with the new baby (congrats by the way) so didn't want to pester you.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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