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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 3572

post #53566 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by badsha View Post

@Mike do you know how much is added on Southwick shoulder measurements, i.e. from 36 to 37? Size 36 fits right on shoulders and is snug all around. Fit is good. Just hesitant to order multiple SC's without knowing exact sizing. Not sure if 36 unstructured would give me more room. I tried on the old Napoli fit in 36 and is spot on the shoulders, still snug though. Thank you.
Measurements for odd numbered sizes fall exactly between even numbers (so if the shoulder on a 38 was 17.5 and a 40 was 18, then a 39 would be 17.75). I asked the same questions when I ordered my first 39.

I think the unstructured jackets feel a bit more generous since there is less "form" to the jacket, but sizing up one sounds like a good idea. Again, I was in the same boat. 38 structured is pretty much a no-go, 38 unstructured is pretty good, but I would take a 39 in either if given the choice.
post #53567 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

That PTB shape is wonderful. Personally prefer that to the previous one you posted in the radica-ish calf a few weeks ago.

Jodphur looks sharp as always.

 

@El Argentino Thanks! That blake PTB is still in work, we're going to re-do the vamp and sole on that to get it up to speed. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by badsha View Post

Im most likely in for a Snuff Suede Jodphur. Pricing is very similar to Carmina, a bit cheaper actually for boots.

 

@badsha oh yes, and quality is on par to (honestly) a bit better

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dalevy View Post
 

I'm not a fan of those particular styles, but the shapes are beautiful. Though I am always interested in suede shoes (in either a summery color or for rainy days). Also, if you are trying to get to a lower price point, I would gladly take open channels if that lowers the price point further.

 

If you had a chukka in the shape of either of these, I would definitely be in on that at some point.

 

@dalevy it's not a huge difference in price for open vs. closed, but I love the look and feel of closed. 

 

I'm looking forward to showing all of this new product to you guys. We can't be the cheapest out there, because there's always going to be people like Meermin or Allen Edmonds on markdown. I do a lot of different products, so I can't fully compete with another brand that just does shoes. Even with our sneakers, there's always going to be less expensive options that offer a similar look. 

 

So I've got to offer a competitive price point AND a compelling reason to buy. After we get these initial easy leathers out onto the market, we can start working with semi-exotic stuff. Antelope, Kangaroo, Elk, Saffiano... things like that. I want to get out of the main competitive space and develop a really distinct collection that has value in the market. We've done that with our sneakers - especially with concepts like the Unfinished Horse and Museum Calf. Between those group buys, we delivered like 2,000 pairs of sneakers, so it's very much what we do. 


And to that point... think for a moment about the Jodhpur in Museum Calf...

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

Suede PTBs w/ that construction. Boom.

 

@El Argentino what color suede and which sole you prefer?

post #53568 of 57698
To clarify, are the new jodhpurs GYW only or would there potentially be a Blake option?
post #53569 of 57698
@Epaulet

Those lasts look amazing Jodhpurs are just not my thing, so those are out, but the PTB is fantastic. I would love to see some semi-exotic skins and unique options. God knows that everyone from Meermin to Eddie Green has PTBs out there, so it would be fun for Epaulet to come through (as always) with things that are a bit outside the norm.

My one preference would be to keep a good flow of leather soles coming. I get the appeal of commando and Dainite, but holy crap am I burnt out on rubber soled shoes...
post #53570 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post

To clarify, are the new jodhpurs GYW only or would there potentially be a Blake option?

 

@notwithit there's gonna be two. GYW on top (about $425), Blake on Bottom (about $275).

 

The Blake ones will probably not be done in suede. I've got a tuff-guy horsehide to run them in which makes more sense. That way we can hit both sides of the market without too much crossover. And it can make sense for the same guys to own both. GYW boots are tapered, leather sole, more formal and designed. Blake boots are rounded toe, rubber/leather sole, more casual and easy. 

 

And the nylon pull-tabs on the GYW boots will be done as flat suede loops, like the Blake models. 

 

post #53571 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

@El Argentino
 what color suede and which sole you prefer?

Sole: Dainite looks great as is. Always nice to have a shoe that can go outdoors without an issue, especially on a PTB which can lend itself to so many different types of outfits, ranging from pure-caz to pure-biz.

Suede: I'm always a sucker for a really ruddy rust. I think though that an espresso suede, on these would be amazing for fall. I'll try to find a picture of the color.

Also, FWIW, skoak ran this color recently; I think it's labeled snuff, but looks lighter than normal. Saw it on their instagram and was one of the first shoes in a long time where it just clicked on first view.

post #53572 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by metranger8694 View Post


Cool!

If you got the suit combo, did you go patch or flap hip pocket.

I went with patch but I might flip to flap. Seems like maybe a more "hip" choice?

 

I would stick with open patch pockets for a fabric like seersucker - I think the more formal flap pockets look odd and out of place in such a highly textured fabric. 

post #53573 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post


Sole: Dainite looks great as is. Always nice to have a shoe that can go outdoors without an issue, especially on a PTB which can lend itself to so many different types of outfits, ranging from pure-caz to pure-biz.

Suede: I'm always a sucker for a really ruddy rust. I think though that an espresso suede, on these would be amazing for fall. I'll try to find a picture of the color.

Also, FWIW, skoak ran this color recently; I think it's labeled snuff, but looks lighter than normal. Saw it on their instagram and was one of the first shoes in a long time where it just clicked on first view.

 

@El Argentino ah yeah, it probably is snuff. The color is all over the freaking place - even back from when we sold Carmina's. It's notoriously inconsistent in tone. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by katabatic View Post
 

 

I would stick with open patch pockets for a fabric like seersucker - I think the more formal flap pockets look odd and out of place in such a highly textured fabric. 

 

@katabatic agreed, that's how most guys styled it. I like it best with open patches. 

post #53574 of 57698

@Epaulet

I like the PTB and Jodhpur both.

I do prefer the GYW last shape to the Blake lasts. 

The chiseled last is really slick. Almost a plaza shape to it.

Saffiano leather is a bonus. a dark burgundy would be a home run in either shoe  

Do you have high minimums on the GYW?

It would be cool to do some GMTO makeups.

How about wide widths?

post #53575 of 57698

@Epaulet 

As for that new jacket, I am in. 

Is it a field jacket/hunting jacket with a vibe similar to something like this?

I own one of these in a different fabric and wear it ALL the time. 

 

post #53576 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post
 

@Epaulet

I like the PTB and Jodhpur both.

I do prefer the GYW last shape to the Blake lasts. 

The chiseled last is really slick. Almost a plaza shape to it.

Saffiano leather is a bonus. a dark burgundy would be a home run in either shoe  

Do you have high minimums on the GYW?

It would be cool to do some GMTO makeups.

How about wide widths?

 

@bkotsko great points!

 

It's definitely Plaza-ish. I worked off of one of their lasts and built this one out. Like the lovechild of a threeway between Alden Plaza, Carmina Rain, and SLP

 

I actually love the Saffiano too! Gives a fresh look to the PTB. I think that it could be dope in a lace-up boot too - which is something that I'm working on. The colors will only be Cognac, Mocha, and Brown - just like the bags. The minimums for a custom Saffiano color are enormous, so that's probably out of reach for the time being. 

 

But yo... Plum Museum Calf... just saying!

 

We can do 12 unit GMTO's on GTW styles. No problemo. And a 3-4 month delivery window. Once I have this initial order and we can fit a bunch of customers, we'll definitely set those up. We can be super-competitve on pricing with that, and we'll have both NY and LA as available locations for personal fittings. 

 

No widths on the horizon right now, but I do have another last which is more rounded and could work for a single "E"...

 

 

 

 

This is our GYW Chelsea makeup. Not going to run that for the first round as we've got a ton of Blake Chelsea's on order, but I really like this. The leather here is hand-painted Patina calfskin. You see a lot of this being hyped from Carlos Santos and the like - and our guys do it too. They do the nicest job that I've seen anyone in Portugal do with it. The bonus is that it can be done in any color - and we can do something like a 12-unit group buy where you can choose from 2-3 different colors. As long as everyone buys the same style, we can offer that mix as everything gets individually painted anyway. You can do nearly any color in this. 

post #53577 of 57698
Quote:
 

 

 

@Gambletrade Smoke MOP all the way! 

 

 

 

Sweet, thanks what I put when I placed the order.

 

Picked up two suits, Seersucker and Platinum Salt and Pepper.

post #53578 of 57698
That's all looking really good.

I think the GMTOs and these distinctive leathers are really going to be where it's at. Yes, the semi-exotics, but even more so things like Saffiano and that calf with different colors available, and a choice of colors of suede. There's a lot of value in being able to pick a leather and color that fits what we need, rather than looking at a perpetual stock selection and wondering if we need another brown/black/snuff suede/etc. shoe/boot.

I can't see why it wouldn't be as successful as the sneakers.

And I'll just throw this out there, though it's probably for much later in the development of this line (if ever at all), but I love those boots with a canvas shaft and a leather lower half. That could be awesome with suede or kangaroo or that beautiful calf skin as the leather combo.

Hope the fit on these works as well for me as the Calgary bluchers.
post #53579 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambletrade View Post
 

Sweet, thanks what I put when I placed the order.

 

Picked up two suits, Seersucker and Platinum Salt and Pepper.

 

@Gambletrade thank you sir - great choices! 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post
 

@Epaulet 

As for that new jacket, I am in. 

Is it a field jacket/hunting jacket with a vibe similar to something like this?

I own one of these in a different fabric and wear it ALL the time. 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Ah.. not quite.. it's going to be more like this...

 

post #53580 of 57698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

@notwithit
 there's gonna be two. GYW on top (about $425), Blake on Bottom (about $275).

The Blake ones will probably not be done in suede. I've got a tuff-guy horsehide to run them in which makes more sense. That way we can hit both sides of the market without too much crossover. And it can make sense for the same guys to own both. GYW boots are tapered, leather sole, more formal and designed. Blake boots are rounded toe, rubber/leather sole, more casual and easy. 

And the nylon pull-tabs on the GYW boots will be done as flat suede loops, like the Blake models. 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Cool, thanks. I think the more rounded, casual last on the Blake is more my speed (and foot shape). If the milkshake / bone suede is only happening on the GYW model, I'll have to think about whether I can make the chisel-toe look work for me.
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