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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 3534

post #52996 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by tricky View Post

EP duck sportcoat and button-down
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Money as always!  Did your elevator get upgraded?

post #52997 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by duff406 View Post

That is a great fit @tricky. What color are those trousers? Hard to tell but I love that jacket!

Brown flannel pants. The jacket is my favourite. Would love more Southwick duck jackets @epaulet!
Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaCal View Post

Money as always!  Did your elevator get upgraded?

Too funny...it did.
post #52998 of 58680
That navy blue duck jacket is awesome! My caramel colored duck jacket is a favorite of mine as well - it gets a lot of wear all year long. I'd definitely love to add a navy one to my closet if @Epaulet offered it again.

Make it so!!! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #52999 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@bkotsko
 awesome, glad that you dig it! I should have the GYW sample tomorrow or Monday and I'll post them side by side. That one has more of a traditional Grant-last-like shape. 
@Plumluck
 thanks - glad that you like it! I think that the promise of doing these in wacko colors is really interesting. If we run this via a group buy, the price on the Chelsea can be about 15% cheaper than the crepe sole models that are coming in. Each of those crepe units has to be entirely shaped by hand, so it's very labor intensive. If we can hit a $250 price or less on a group buy for these, I believe that guys may throw in for an interesting color that they wouldn't ordinarily want. A milkshake or bone colored suede would be unstoppable. 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@bkotsko
 that shirt came out so rad! Looks great with the coat. 


@Darkside
 agreed on the edge trim, but that's unfortunately going to be a limitation on this range. 


The typical goodyear edge is stained at the factory, so you can request different grades of darkness. I typically like some contrast, so I'm always spec'ing antique or light edge trim.

In the case of these Blake boots, that sole already comes assembled from the manufacturer. The edge piece isn't stained in house, so it's either very dark or really light. I wasn't crazy about the really light edge, so chances are this would be the only sole that we run for this product. I've come around to liking that natural stitch on the top of the welt though. 

And I tell you - the boot fits and feels like a dream. The sole is seriously light, so the whole thing has the vibe of a sneaker. You'd have zilcho break-in on this and no issues wearing it in wet weather. 

Milkshake or bone suede jodhpurs would be insta-kop status.

Any word on the leather jacket (moto / MA-1 / A-2) samples? This thread moves fast enough that I have trouble keeping up.
post #53000 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by avsmusic1 View Post
 

meanwhile in Canada, Tricky continues crushing it with more flawless EP fits and pairings 

 

@avsmusic1 @tricky for real, he continues to be the best fit model in the scene? 

 

Tricky, can we get you to move to LA?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by duff406 View Post

Hey Mike, what does the future hold for the Doyle line? A restock coming, maybe some new colors or materials? Has there ever been a Doyle EFF??
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rydenfan View Post


I believe that shop has decent sized minimums which would make an EFF pretty tough

 

@rydenfan is correct, there won't ever be an EFF for something like the Doyle. I'll tell you why. 

 

Most of our East Coast factories (Hertling, Gitman, Southwick, etc) are "full package." They make one thing, they make it well, and the carry inventory to produce it. At any given time, they have hundreds of fabrics on hand and ready to cut. When these get down to the ends, they need to clear them out and we're able to do our off-price promos. But its always contingent on the factory holding inventory. 

 

Most factories in California only do a specific part of the chain. There's a cutting facility, a sewing facility, a wash house, yadda yadda. No one carries fabric - you have to purchase it up front, and you own it. So there's no fabric inventory to put on promo. The only real possibility is a group buy setup - like what Gustin and Taylor Stitch do. I've tried that in the past, but it's problematic for consistency. No matter what, different styles of cottons will always wash and shrink differently. It's frustrating if you're running things as GMTO or group buys, as customers are understandably upset if the garment is a lot bigger or smaller than expected. 

 

Rather than that, we're going to focus on doing certain shapes really well. The field jacket has actually been a total success for us. We made a ton, but we've sold like 300 units to date. It's a large volume for us. I'm going to run the Doyle in a similar way. 

 

Once we're on the ground in LA I'm going to work on Fall Doyle production. We'll run them in the same moleskin as the Field Coat. I'll do a single rinse model but also play with a distressed stone wash - see what we get there. But rest assured, the Doyle shall return! Probably October. 

 

For the meantime, what we have is what we have, and we're down to the last few pieces. If you want a Doyle for Spring/Summer, grab it now. We still have some key sizes in French Blue, and that color is freaking rad. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieAngel View Post

Hey Mike!

Are you planning on continuing an occasional MTO Couro Cromo sneaker thing? I know I missed out on a couple I wouldn't mind putting down as a pre-order. I dug the idea behind the museum calf MTO of late, would love to see that become a regular thing for us EPLA folks. smile.gif

 

@CharlieAngel no Couro Cromo preorders on the horizon, but I'm thinking to do one in Couro Cavalho (the new Horsehide). I've got a few colors available. And there's quite a few stock Tennis and Sport trainers in-bound with the next shipment. 

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by duff406 View Post

Picked this up at the Brooklyn sale but wasn't sure I'd get to wear it again before summer. But it's a damp cool evening here so I threw it on for a walk into town.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Bonus khaki canvas rivets too!

 

@duff406 great fit on you! 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post

Any update on the pre-order Chelsea boots and HH trainers from months ago?

 

@bry2000 should be leaving Portugal early next week, delivery about 3-4 days after it flies out. I'll keep you guys updated. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcjohnson View Post

Will heirlooms be offered in store again this year or just via preorder?

 

@dcjohnson we'll surely order some stock items - probably just the waffle knit full button. Like last year, the stock item will be about 25% more than the preorder price. 

 

We may be able to do another preorder round in-season, but that depends on Northern Watters. It worked last year because the weird warm Fall slowed down their business. If it's cold, they probably won't be able to deliver a Fall preorder before Christmas. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillal View Post
 

After all those questions I asked, figure i'd go ahead and also mention that I'm in on a Cognac Weekender.:slayer:

 

@jvillal nice - you're gonna love it! 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrig View Post

Are the overdye EPLA oxfords done forever? Because the last iteration was perfect in every way

I would kill for an aqua overdye

 

@lbrig for the moment, yes. 

 

The reason is: we can straight-up make a better shirt in Portugal for the same money. LA is pretty difficult for traditional shirtmaking. It's fine for chambray and such - especially if you're doing small, unremarkable collars, but I've never been thrilled with the stitching and construction on our OD shirts. So Portgual will be our opening price point, and Gitman, New England, and Individualized will be our higher-end stuff. 

 

That said, I'd love to do more casual and work-wear pieces in LA. Even if the Engineer/Western shirts didn't kill it with sales, I was really happy with how they came out. The first round was probably too heavy and the "Tokachi" chambray round wasn't to everyone's taste. I think that we can do a great workwear-ish shirt in a nice denim with chainstitch runoff and all the bells for $95. That's something that LA does particularly well. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by eljlakers View Post
 

On another note, when are those gray suede and basketweave slip-ons dropping again?

 

@eljlakers planning June-July on those

post #53001 of 58680
Lots of talk about duck cotton suiting - any chance we see the long awaited EPLA casual suiting soon?
post #53002 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by esoxm View Post

Lots of talk about duck cotton suiting - any chance we see the long awaited EPLA casual suiting soon?

 

@esoxm actually thanks for asking, I meant to update everyone on that. 

 

Unfortunately no, there won't be any EPLA suiting. Trying to make that sportcoat has been like pulling teeth. It's just not something that they can do - at least to my standards.

 

That said, we're about four weeks out from our Portugal-made suit separates. Grey & Navy Barberis 110s wool. Walt cut on the trouser (with a slightly stronger taper after the knee). Vittorio shape for the single breasted jacket. And a small stock of double breasted jackets. $595 retail for the trouser + SB jacket, $675 retail for the trouser + DB jacket. It's unstoppable and will be the best OTR suit anywhere for the money. After we nailed that down, the LA duck suit kind of fell to the wayside. This thing is going to be amazing. 

post #53003 of 58680
But the blue Tockachi chambray is perfect...
post #53004 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@avsmusic1
 @tricky
 for real, he continues to be the best fit model in the scene? 

Tricky, can we get you to move to LA?


@rydenfan
 is correct, there won't ever be an EFF for something like the Doyle. I'll tell you why. 

Most of our East Coast factories (Hertling, Gitman, Southwick, etc) are "full package." They make one thing, they make it well, and the carry inventory to produce it. At any given time, they have hundreds of fabrics on hand and ready to cut. When these get down to the ends, they need to clear them out and we're able to do our off-price promos. But its always contingent on the factory holding inventory. 

Most factories in California only do a specific part of the chain. There's a cutting facility, a sewing facility, a wash house, yadda yadda. No one carries fabric - you have to purchase it up front, and you own it. So there's no fabric inventory to put on promo. The only real possibility is a group buy setup - like what Gustin and Taylor Stitch do. I've tried that in the past, but it's problematic for consistency. No matter what, different styles of cottons will always wash and shrink differently. It's frustrating if you're running things as GMTO or group buys, as customers are understandably upset if the garment is a lot bigger or smaller than expected. 

Rather than that, we're going to focus on doing certain shapes really well. The field jacket has actually been a total success for us. We made a ton, but we've sold like 300 units to date. It's a large volume for us. I'm going to run the Doyle in a similar way. 

Once we're on the ground in LA I'm going to work on Fall Doyle production. We'll run them in the same moleskin as the Field Coat. I'll do a single rinse model but also play with a distressed stone wash - see what we get there. But rest assured, the Doyle shall return! Probably October. 

For the meantime, what we have is what we have, and we're down to the last few pieces. If you want a Doyle for Spring/Summer, grab it now. We still have some key sizes in French Blue, and that color is freaking rad. 


@CharlieAngel
 no Couro Cromo preorders on the horizon, but I'm thinking to do one in Couro Cavalho (the new Horsehide). I've got a few colors available. And there's quite a few stock Tennis and Sport trainers in-bound with the next shipment. 

@duff406
 great fit on you! 


@bry2000
 should be leaving Portugal early next week, delivery about 3-4 days after it flies out. I'll keep you guys updated. 


@dcjohnson
 we'll surely order some stock items - probably just the waffle knit full button. Like last year, the stock item will be about 25% more than the preorder price. 

We may be able to do another preorder round in-season, but that depends on Northern Watters. It worked last year because the weird warm Fall slowed down their business. If it's cold, they probably won't be able to deliver a Fall preorder before Christmas. 


@jvillal
 nice - you're gonna love it! 


@lbrig
 for the moment, yes. 

The reason is: we can straight-up make a better shirt in Portugal for the same money. LA is pretty difficult for traditional shirtmaking. It's fine for chambray and such - especially if you're doing small, unremarkable collars, but I've never been thrilled with the stitching and construction on our OD shirts. So Portgual will be our opening price point, and Gitman, New England, and Individualized will be our higher-end stuff. 

That said, I'd love to do more casual and work-wear pieces in LA. Even if the Engineer/Western shirts didn't kill it with sales, I was really happy with how they came out. The first round was probably too heavy and the "Tokachi" chambray round wasn't to everyone's taste. I think that we can do a great workwear-ish shirt in a nice denim with chainstitch runoff and all the bells for $95. That's something that LA does particularly well. 


@eljlakers
 planning June-July on those

I almost looked at this and said, TLDR, but then I did actually read it and saw talk of a moleskin Doyle for the fall. That should be awesome!!
post #53005 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigan Planner View Post

I almost looked at this and said, TLDR, but then I did actually read it and saw talk of a moleskin Doyle for the fall. That should be awesome!!

Agreed. I'd love a moleskin Doyle jacket for the cooler weather. My regular duck ones get a lot of wear as it is.
post #53006 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

But the blue Tockachi chambray is perfect...

 

@FrankCowperwood I know, I love it too! Was a tough sell though. I think that our LA shirts were not workwear enough, but not biz-caz enough in design, especially in that fabric. 

 

And there's just a lot of guys competing in that space these days. If you want a chambray shirt for around $85 with the online pitch of US-made and direct-to-consumer, there's a ton of options. It's not something that we're known for, so we got kind of lost in the shuffle. 

 

Our Portugal washed denim shirts are next level. They are going to be psychotically comfortable and give off a very Italian look. More Eidos and Isaia than RRL and J.Crew Mens. So I think that the future EPLA shirts need to be done on the level of a Japanese brand. Nice beefy denim, great details, strong workwear vibe. I've got the right facility to do it, but I need to personally be there and oversee the beginning of it. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigan Planner View Post


I almost looked at this and said, TLDR, but then I did actually read it and saw talk of a moleskin Doyle for the fall. That should be awesome!!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mghart View Post


Agreed. I'd love a moleskin Doyle jacket for the cooler weather. My regular duck ones get a lot of wear as it is.

 

@Michigan Planner @Mghart yes, and that mid-weight moleskin that we use on the Field jacket is absolutely perfect for it. Much of the Field jacket cost comes from the zippers and the complicated pockets so we can easily be in the low 200s on a Moleskin Doyle. It's much cheaper for manufacturing. 

post #53007 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

@esoxm
 actually thanks for asking, I meant to update everyone on that. 

Unfortunately no, there won't be any EPLA suiting. Trying to make that sportcoat has been like pulling teeth. It's just not something that they can do - at least to my standards.

That said, we're about four weeks out from our Portugal-made suit separates. Grey & Navy Barberis 110s wool. Walt cut on the trouser (with a slightly stronger taper after the knee). Vittorio shape for the single breasted jacket. And a small stock of double breasted jackets. $595 retail for the trouser + SB jacket, $675 retail for the trouser + DB jacket. It's unstoppable and will be the best OTR suit anywhere for the money. After we nailed that down, the LA duck suit kind of fell to the wayside. This thing is going to be amazing. 

This is baller. As always, if Rudy can ever make it into this lineup, both suits would be purchased without blinking.

As for today:



UK Navy Sanded Canvas Rudys
EPxCarmina Alt Wiens in Caramel Calfskin
Not Pictured: EP English Tan Bridle Belt
post #53008 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

That said, I'd love to do more casual and work-wear pieces in LA. Even if the Engineer/Western shirts didn't kill it with sales, I was really happy with how they came out. The first round was probably too heavy and the "Tokachi" chambray round wasn't to everyone's taste. I think that we can do a great workwear-ish shirt in a nice denim with chainstitch runoff and all the bells for $95. That's something that LA does particularly well. 

 

I have the Tokachi chambray and I love it, particularly because of the dual button-thru pockets. I actually use the pockets (for pens, etc) so flaps drive me nuts. I've been waiting for you to bring back a denim shirt in a design I can dig. Would love to see it in non-distressed Cone Mills denim, or from any other American factory if there are any.

 

I passed on the first engineer shirt because I wasn't a fan of the pocket configuration. I would also leave off the extended collar button tab, given the choice. Lastly, I'm not a fan of western yokes, though I seem to be in the minority on that one.

post #53009 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

@esoxm
 actually thanks for asking, I meant to update everyone on that. 

Unfortunately no, there won't be any EPLA suiting. Trying to make that sportcoat has been like pulling teeth. It's just not something that they can do - at least to my standards.

That said, we're about four weeks out from our Portugal-made suit separates. Grey & Navy Barberis 110s wool. Walt cut on the trouser (with a slightly stronger taper after the knee). Vittorio shape for the single breasted jacket. And a small stock of double breasted jackets. $595 retail for the trouser + SB jacket, $675 retail for the trouser + DB jacket. It's unstoppable and will be the best OTR suit anywhere for the money. After we nailed that down, the LA duck suit kind of fell to the wayside. This thing is going to be amazing. 

Holy shit.
post #53010 of 58680
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

This is baller. As always, if Rudy can ever make it into this lineup, both suits would be purchased without blinking.

Seconded. Might still take a chance with an upsized pant, but the strong taper on the lower leg might not accomodate mine.

@Epaulet, will these separates stock (returnable) items?
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