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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 1912

post #28666 of 36431
I can confirm that that Japanese camo twill short is the best summer short in existence. I didn't go full on 5", but I did special order that Walt short a year ago and it's by far my most worn pair of shorts. Pick one up! Worth the price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post

Also, sorry for the double post, but how breathable will the sanded canvas be for a typical summer in NYC? Especially compared, say, to your Irish Linen Walts, or to the original run of oxford cloth rivet chinos.

Hey Mike, just wondering about this. Think it got lost in the shuffle.

Also I wanted to ask about whether the Japansse Garment Dye Walts would be lighter or heavier than the Irish Linen. For maximum comfort in a humid NYC summer, which would you go with?

Thanks!
post #28667 of 36431

Mike, I'm a little unclear on how the Japanese garment dyed fabrics are different (other than being lighter)...

post #28668 of 36431
Mike-

Are the "regular" twills in the MTO the stock Driggs fabric or is this something new?
post #28669 of 36431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcibiades View Post

Final pant question - I get the Walt trousers in size 34 and get the waist let out by an inch - it gives me a slim fit all around that I like. Based on the measurements, would it be better to get the Rivet Chinos in 36 and to get them taken in I guess half an inch? I'd like to achieve a similar fit...

That is pretty much what I do...I prefer the fit from a 34 Walt being let out an inch vs. a 36 Walt being taken in ...

I go 36 on the Rivet and have them take in an inch and the fit is similar albeit I still can't get used to the low rise on the Rivet's...

post #28670 of 36431

Another Japanese twill question....

 

Is the Aubergine twill the same base as the new Japanese twill's?

post #28671 of 36431
Distressed Western shirt pics don't seem to match the description...
post #28672 of 36431
Hmmm slate or walnut. which color of the walnut is more accurate? The main picture or the 2nd closer up picture?
post #28673 of 36431
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post

I can confirm that that Japanese camo twill short is the best summer short in existence. I didn't go full on 5", but I did special order that Walt short a year ago and it's by far my most worn pair of shorts. Pick one up! Worth the price.
Hey Mike, just wondering about this. Think it got lost in the shuffle.

Also I wanted to ask about whether the Japansse Garment Dye Walts would be lighter or heavier than the Irish Linen. For maximum comfort in a humid NYC summer, which would you go with?

Thanks!

I'd always go with linen, that can't be beat for really humid days.

That said, the Japanese Garment Dye is a great lightweight cotton choice. In terms of cottons, that's also going to be one of the best available for a really hot day. It's just that linen is in a league of its own for that stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanl View Post

Mike, I'm a little unclear on how the Japanese garment dyed fabrics are different (other than being lighter)...

Sure thing. So there's a few ways that we work with trouser fabrics:

1) Yarn-Dyed Cloth: the yarns themselves are dyed a certain color and then woven together. The fabric itself is "raw" and unwashed. This is the case for all of the Walts and all of the stock Rivet Chinos. This fabric tends to be a little stiff and starchy, and it softens up with age.

2) Yarn-Dyed & Washed: Here we're taking the finished garment and running it through a basic rinse or enzyme wash. This is the Driggs, the denim shirts, the rinsed Asbury. This is a look and feel that you would achieve on your own with time, we're just doing the washing for you to break it in.

3) Garment-Dyed Fabric: Garment-dyeing is the process of adding color to a natural yarn (garment dyed) or a colored yarn (garment over-dyed). In the case of this Japanese cloth, the fabric itself is woven together of optical white strands. It's then dyed completely while still on the bolt. This softens the cloth up to a very large degree and gives it a very soft hand without the actual assembled piece of clothing going through the process. The Rivet Chino Factory Finds fabrics are a great example of this. The fabric itself has a dye effect, but the trimmings (waistband, connecting thread, liners) are normal. Sizing is also consistent with yarn-dyed pieces as you're working with pre-shrunk fabric

4) Garment-Dyed Full Garment - here you make the entire garment up in natural yarn and then drop the whole thing into a dye bath. We'll do a lot of this with the EPLA line. This is how Incotex pants and most LBM 1911 jackets are made. Everything gets dyed, including the trimmings. The whole piece is very soft and you have to plan carefully for shrinkage.

Trying to fully Garment dye a Walt/Rudy would be difficult. The process is intensive, and the waistband construction would have to change as our existing full package construction would probably shrink in an unpredictable way. So using a garment-dyed fabric is a great way to get the look and feel of the cloth while keeping the same construction and fit that everyone expects.

Later in the Spring we'll release the Rivet Chino Garment Dye model. This whole thing will be dyed after its made. We can do that because (1) the construction will be simplified to handle the bath and (2) our factory can plan out shrinkage on a CAD machine and scale the pattern up to compensate for it. We currently do this for all of the Wilshire jeans, as each denim shrinks in its own way. We do a wash test of every new variety of denim and tweak the pattern so that the resulting jeans fit largely the same.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stmaier View Post

Mike-

Are the "regular" twills in the MTO the stock Driggs fabric or is this something new?

They're not exactly the Driggs fabrics, but they're basically the same.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don L View Post

Another Japanese twill question....

Is the Aubergine twill the same base as the new Japanese twill's?

No, that's actually something totally different. It's a yarn-dyed lightweight Japanese cotton. Totally standard, great hand, deep color on it. Usually those cottons cost a small fortune (relatively), but I got that off price.
post #28674 of 36431
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyc wid it View Post

Distressed Western shirt pics don't seem to match the description...

Ahhh sorry - that one should have been in staging mode. Working on those pics now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by trig View Post

Hmmm slate or walnut. which color of the walnut is more accurate? The main picture or the 2nd closer up picture?

I'd say that the natural light pic on the grey background is closer to the actual tone. Walnut is beautiful - a richer khaki color.
post #28675 of 36431
Exciting news about the FF sportcoats.

Just throwing this out to those who ordered FF 38Rs....

I went with the Frosty Houndstooth but I probably have enough small check sportcoats, so if anyone wants to do a possible exchange for whatever they got I may be down.

I'm sure they'll all be dope. I'll throw up some fit pics when it drops anyways.

Which reminds me - that green orange Logan that a member posted last month or so...will there be another run?

In the meantime also anticipating my first Doyle. So much hype I can't wait to rock it!!
post #28676 of 36431
Oh and the 5" shorts look awesome.
post #28677 of 36431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post


I'd always go with linen, that can't be beat for really humid days.

That said, the Japanese Garment Dye is a great lightweight cotton choice. In terms of cottons, that's also going to be one of the best available for a really hot day. It's just that linen is in a league of its own for that stuff.

 

Awesome, thanks. How would you say that the sanded canvas (on the current factory finds) fits into that spectrum? Cooler than the garment dye cotton, or less cool?

post #28678 of 36431
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post

Awesome, thanks. How would you say that the sanded canvas (on the current factory finds) fits into that spectrum? Cooler than the garment dye cotton, or less cool?

I'd say that they're about the same. Both will be great for this season. The canvas is going to be tougher, the Japanese GD is going to be finer and drape more.
post #28679 of 36431
I have some Factory Finds porn to show off. The black and navy cashmere jackets arrived and will be shipping shortly (if yours hasn't shipped already).

Good lord. These came out beautiful. We were really surprised how much we liked the black one in person too.





post #28680 of 36431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

I have some Factory Finds porn to show off. The black and navy cashmere jackets arrived and will be shipping shortly (if yours hasn't shipped already).

Good lord. These came out beautiful. We were really surprised how much we liked the black one in person too.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

I am kicking myself for not replacing my old (and still perfectly serviceable) blazer with this.  Need?  Who cares about need.  This is too nice for that.

 

If anyone got a 40L in navy and no longer wants it, let me know.

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