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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 1798

post #26956 of 31866

Damn my leg length discrepancy. On the plus side I'm sure there will be some fantastic fabrics to choose from.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

60x60px-ZC-ccc6b903_IMG_EGnew1704.jpeg    http://www.styleforum.net/t/376283/bnib-edward-green-10-10-5-burgundy-brown-and-black-82-last

 

post #26957 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post


For the trousers, we sat down at the factory and hammered out a system where we can allow a large degree of customization. You'll be able to choose a bunch of details:

3) Belt loops, side tabs, or suspender buttons

4) Rear besom or flap pockets. Flap can be on the left, right, or both

6) Zip fly or button fly

Shit just got real. nod[1].gif
post #26958 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

@StanleyVanBuren, why the sudden push towards black?

I realize these pants are navy hopsack, but the stark contrast of the photo brought it back to mind

It's an exciting time for menswear. We're seeing a move away from rigid Americana/Workwear/#Menswear styles and more openness towards new designs. We're not going to go all Rick Owens on you guys and make a Hellraiser-ish leather apron, but we're jazzed to introduce some new styles and shapes - primarily though the EPLA line. Back in my Saks days, I bought a lot of black clothing and footwear, and it's cool. The trend was against it over the past few years, but I think that it's coming back and we're going to roll it out in a lot of our items this year.

 

First and foremost, I like black because it works well with my skin tone and hair color. But Mike is totally right that the trend has been against it. I don't think I've had many black items (other than shoes) in my closet since high school (graduated 2001). I wore a lot of black t-shirts in the late 90s but about halfway through high school I switched to wanting to look a little more like an adult and less like a punk kid (despite definitely still being pretty much a punk kid).

 

Then in the 2000s, it felt like a black suit was what was worn by the same people wearing terrible corrected-grain slip-on square-toe Kenneth Cole shoes and "dark purple dress shirts." Or aging Hollywood douchebags in their 40s or 50s desperately trying to still look young wearing black denim and ill-fitting leather jackets. And as I got into law school, I started trying to build a lawyer wardrobe, which meant conservative choices like navy & grey suits, blue and white shirts, etc. Certainly not any black. Black is not trad.

 

But I think (and it seems Mike agrees) that things are changing for the better. Again, take a look at any of the top-rated SW&D fits over the past year. Especially the #1:

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
 

speaking of pants, wearing flares today

 

photo prkr1030_zps6b201b64.jpg

 

temple du jawnz lamb A2

roberto collina merino tneck

ww chan bespoke flannels (70s cop cut)

vassh boots

 

 

It looks great, and it's not even so crazy that it wouldn't be accessible to probably 90% of the people who post in this thread. But I doubt most of you have any pieces like any of this yet, and I doubt we'd have seen a fit like this a few years ago when everyone was obsessed with raw denim and Indy boots.

 

If you ask me where I think things are heading though, I would tell you that Parker is probably ahead of the trend and a good indication of what to expect to see, if not exactly. I don't think everyone is going to start wearing bell-bottom-ish pants. But the rest of this look is very, to use Mike's term, "directional."

post #26959 of 31866

Will the Oxford Cloth Rivet Chino's be coming back this year? And if so, will they be available in the MTO program? Will there be any other fabrics added to the MTO RC's? I'd love to get a pair of the Ash Twills.

post #26960 of 31866
I Know EP recommended a few tailors around their neighborhood, but what about shoe cobblers for Carmina, Alden and Vass?
post #26961 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post


Cool!

We're planning two lines of oxfords. One will be standard (blue, white, university stripe) and the other will be overdyed. The standard ones will still be enzyme and stone washed, so everything will be pre-shrunk, soft, and casual. Our upcoming Gitman shirts will maintain the dressier, beefy oxford style that we offer now.

In terms of overdye, I'm going to do three colors to start. Two are pretty easy: dark navy and smoke grey.

I'm totally open for the third color. We've been tossing around olive or forest green. But since we're dyeing these, we can really make any color. For you OD oxford fans, is there a color you were always hoping to get but couldn't track down? I'm kind of leaning towards a teal jewel tone, something really rad for Spring/Summer.

 

I vote for either the olive or forest, but that is 100% my own personal taste and not a guess as to what will sell best.

post #26962 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by JezeC View Post

I Know EP recommended a few tailors around their neighborhood, but what about shoe cobblers for Carmina, Alden and Vass?

B Nelson

post #26963 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post



I'm totally open for the third color. We've been tossing around olive or forest green. But since we're dyeing these, we can really make any color. For you OD oxford fans, is there a color you were always hoping to get but couldn't track down? I'm kind of leaning towards a teal jewel tone, something really rad for Spring/Summer.

 

Red!

 

I bought a BoO red overdye back in 2011 because I thought it looked so damn cool. I ended up selling it at a slight loss on B&S because the BoO fit just didn't work for me.

 

But I would replace this with an EPLA model in a second:

 

 

The key, for me at least, is that it's got to be this fiery almost-orange-ish red for it to really kill. A darker or deeper red doesn't have the same allure.

 

Think "Porsche Guards Red"

 

 

Pantone 185 C:

 


Edited by StanleyVanBuren - 1/27/14 at 4:29pm
post #26964 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

First and foremost, I like black because it works well with my skin tone and hair color. But Mike is totally right that the trend has been against it. I don't think I've had many black items (other than shoes) in my closet since high school (graduated 2001). I wore a lot of black t-shirts in the late 90s but about halfway through high school I switched to wanting to look a little more like an adult and less like a punk kid (despite definitely still being pretty much a punk kid).

Then in the 2000s, it felt like a black suit was what was worn by the same people wearing terrible corrected-grain slip-on square-toe Kenneth Cole shoes and "dark purple dress shirts." Or aging Hollywood douchebags in their 40s or 50s desperately trying to still look young wearing black denim and ill-fitting leather jackets. And as I got into law school, I started trying to build a lawyer wardrobe, which meant conservative choices like navy & grey suits, blue and white shirts, etc. Certainly not any black. Black is not trad.

But I think (and it seems Mike agrees) that things are changing for the better. Again, take a look at any of the top-rated SW&D fits over the past year. Especially the #1:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

It looks great, and it's not even so crazy that it wouldn't be accessible to probably 90% of the people who post in this thread. But I doubt most of you have any pieces like any of this yet, and I doubt we'd have seen a fit like this a few years ago when everyone was obsessed with raw denim and Indy boots.

If you ask me where I think things are heading though, I would tell you that Parker is probably ahead of the trend and a good indication of what to expect to see, if not exactly. I don't think everyone is going to start wearing bell-bottom-ish pants. But the rest of this look is very, to use Mike's term, "directional."

For me, the idea of wearing black is very contextual and these days comes with some baggage. I too wore a lot of grey/black in high school (black Op Ivy shirt, black Bad Religion shirt, black docs, black hoodie, etc.). Los Angeles though strikes me as a very brown sort of town. Lots of desert and chaparral, low and spread out, hills and beach and sunshine. Black to me is a bit punk rock, and also very city-oriented (both traditionally with the black in town tradition in London and also just the vibe one gets being in a city with lots of grey buildings and sidewalks and shadows like New York or Chicago (and parts of LA)). Black is manmade while browns are the color of nature. Black is the Ramones and Lou Reed. Hell's Angels and Raiders fans. It is also architects and "creative types". And a lot of the current disdain does have to do with d-bag club goers and people wearing terrible shoes and suits that make them look like security guards or morticians.

I think black has gone off the rails a bit because it can be harder to wear black and not look particularly like someone (whereas workwear and such can look nostalgic for an era and is clearly casual but speaks less to a particular person or subculture). One of the great things about Parker's look for me is that it actually avoids those issues. He's not wearing a motorcycle jacket. His pants have some texture and flow. The turtleneck and its rich color further softens things. In general I think there is not enough black using texture because black is often supposed to elicit a really clean sharp look. I like his more relaxed vibe. I think there's possibly some room to play there.

I agree though that black should not be as divisive of a color (lack of color) as it is. I doubt you'd ever find me in a black suit (other than a tux but even then my tux is dark navy), but I do dig black in a lot of contexts, especially casually. I like Parker's pic a lot, but the grey hair, the black glasses, and the burgundy/plum sweater help make it for me. Black is often an edgier look. IMO, I think it can also wash people out, especially white-ass (red) dudes like me (and especially if you leave out other color). Done well it looks super smart. I definitely look forward to seeing what Epaulet and others produce, and how people put them together. I could see myself getting back in black.
post #26965 of 31866

Plus there is always this great quote from Ann Demeulemeester: "Black is not sad. Bright colors are what depresses me. They’re so… empty. Black is poetic. How do you imagine a poet? In a bright yellow jacket? Probably not."

 

Not that I agree 100%; as you guys have probably noticed, I wear bright colors often enough, but she has a point that shouldn't be ignored.

 

Black lets the emphasis be on the texture of the fabric, which like you're talking about with Parker, if done correctly (ie not clean/sharp), can be far more interesting than just a unique color on an otherwise uninteresting fabric.

post #26966 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

If you ask me where I think things are heading though, I would tell you that Parker is probably ahead of the trend and a good indication of what to expect to see, if not exactly. I don't think everyone is going to start wearing bell-bottom-ish pants. But the rest of this look is very, to use Mike's term, "directional."

I predict that pendulum will swing firmly back the other way after this buzz of skinny pants. I wouldn't be surprised to see that happen again.
post #26967 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonio028 View Post

Mike - With respect to the finished hem on the MTO trousers, how much (if any) extra fabric will be left in case someone had to "let out" a little more?
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

I'm sure you could just leave it I hemmed or have the inseam be extra long and hem it yourself.

Yes, they'll be an option for an unfinished hem for anyone who isn't sure of their inseam length or wants to have a cuff put into their trousers (we unfortunately can only offer plain hem's at the moment)

But any hem usually has an extra inch that it can be let down if need be.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reveille View Post

Mike, excited about the new trouser program on the way.  Question, will you also have this available for Rivets?  Meaning, will you have a similar MTO program with additional new spring fabrics?

Thanks!

Yes, we're going to introduce about 6-8 new fabrics this season and all will be available for Rivet MTO's. I've also got a small (10 fabrics or so) factory finds round to put up in a week or so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JezeC View Post

I Know EP recommended a few tailors around their neighborhood, but what about shoe cobblers for Carmina, Alden and Vass?

B. Nelson all of the way. That is the sole cobber (ha, see what I did there!) who we recommend. And the only cobbler who all of us use. Be sure to mention that you're a Styleforum member when you send in something for work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by upgrayedd View Post

Will the Oxford Cloth Rivet Chino's be coming back this year? And if so, will they be available in the MTO program? Will there be any other fabrics added to the MTO RC's? I'd love to get a pair of the Ash Twills.

Yes, and yes to oxford cloth chinos.

And for Ash Twill, drop me an email with your name and size. I'm not sure how much cloth we have left, but chances are we could make a single unit for you. There's usually a good amount left after any production run.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oisin View Post

For me, the idea of wearing black is very contextual and these days comes with some baggage. I too wore a lot of grey/black in high school (black Op Ivy shirt, black Bad Religion shirt, black docs, black hoodie, etc.). Los Angeles though strikes me as a very brown sort of town. Lots of desert and chaparral, low and spread out, hills and beach and sunshine. Black to me is a bit punk rock, and also very city-oriented (both traditionally with the black in town tradition in London and also just the vibe one gets being in a city with lots of grey buildings and sidewalks and shadows like New York or Chicago (and parts of LA)). Black is manmade while browns are the color of nature. Black is the Ramones and Lou Reed. Hell's Angels and Raiders fans. It is also architects and "creative types". And a lot of the current disdain does have to do with d-bag club goers and people wearing terrible shoes and suits that make them look like security guards or morticians.

I think black has gone off the rails a bit because it can be harder to wear black and not look particularly like someone (whereas workwear and such can look nostalgic for an era and is clearly casual but speaks less to a particular person or subculture). One of the great things about Parker's look for me is that it actually avoids those issues. He's not wearing a motorcycle jacket. His pants have some texture and flow. The turtleneck and its rich color further softens things. In general I think there is not enough black using texture because black is often supposed to elicit a really clean sharp look. I like his more relaxed vibe. I think there's possibly some room to play there.

I agree though that black should not be as divisive of a color (lack of color) as it is. I doubt you'd ever find me in a black suit (other than a tux but even then my tux is dark navy), but I do dig black in a lot of contexts, especially casually. I like Parker's pic a lot, but the grey hair, the black glasses, and the burgundy/plum sweater help make it for me. Black is often an edgier look. IMO, I think it can also wash people out, especially white-ass (red) dudes like me (and especially if you leave out other color). Done well it looks super smart. I definitely look forward to seeing what Epaulet and others produce, and how people put them together. I could see myself getting back in black.

I'm really enjoying the "black" debate. It's fascinating to see where you guys stand.

When it comes to designing EPLA/EPNY, I'm planning to approach black from three directions:

EPNY
When I bought for Saks back in '99-'01, black was far and away the dominant color that we sold from European brands. We stocked black trousers, jackes, suits, and shoes from the likes of Prada, Gucci, D&G, Comme Des Garcons, even Zegna. I owned something like five black suits and wore them all of the time. I think that the "d-bag club goer/security guard/mortician" crowd is taking a page from this long-standing look, and it's younger, and more trendy than the Pitti, #menswear style.

I'm planning to work black into our existing pieces as a fresh option for navy. Our best selling winter trouser, every year, is oxford grey flannel. It's very typical for our guys (and me) to wear it with a navy coat and brown shoes. But it can look equally sharp with a black jacket and black shoes. By keeping the style understated and offering the same high-quality pieces then we can channel some of that 60's beatnik/beatles look with a little bit of late 90's Helmut Lang and Jil Sander. As much as I love our Bartlett black motorcycle jacket worn full Marlon Brando style, it would also be extremely sharp with grey jeans, black Vass brogues and a black crewneck sweater.

EPLA
I spend a lot of time here in the garment district and hanging out with mid-20's dudes in the fashion industry. They wear WAY more black than anyone in New York and you see it throughout their garments. Black tees, black hoodies, black jeans, black sneakers and shoes. Black hats. Black cars. It ranges from the really directional black pieces like Parker's look, and Rick Owens to hip hop things that Kanye or A$AP Rocky would wear to Rockabilly stuff, to 80's Suicidal Tendencies/Black Flag kind of looks.

Our EPLA line will be more of a group of key items than an actual collection. I want to utilize the best production capabilities of this city, and those are things like jeans, hoodies, denim pieces, casual jackets, and knits. When we make these items, we'll plan to offer black or overdyed black as an option throughout so that our customers can integrate the pieces however they see fit. When you have the ability to wash and distress things, then black can take on a lot of different shades, and run the gamut from a powerful jet black to a sun-faded nearly grey tone.

FOOTWEAR
We're going to invest in making some interesting footwear in black this year too. We'll bring it in from Vass, Carmina, and Alden, and we'll also produce a Sport Trainer in black.
post #26968 of 31866
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

I predict that pendulum will swing firmly back the other way after this buzz of skinny pants. I wouldn't be surprised to see that happen again.

It will be interesting. I still think that slim-straight trousers are the most flattering look on most guys, and I've been of that opinion for about 15 years. We're going to do some patternwork on a single pleat walt which we can offer as an MTO option as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Pretty stoked about the tons of new trousers coming out.

Will we be able to see actual examples of each of the trousers made up? or will these be seen as just swatches?

Many of the MTO fabrics will be things that we've made in the past or currently stock so you'll be able to see those made up. Everything else will be a swatch until someone orders it. That's pretty much the deal for everything that we offer via MTO. I definitely recognize the utility of showing an actual garment, so if you ever see just a swatch online, then it's because that's all we have.

That said, every trouser will pass through our hands for inspection before being shipped to the customer, so we'll try to photograph every new fabric and show it made up for future customers. We're also always happy to take an email or a phone call with any specific questions. I don't take no mess when it comes to fabrics, so you can trust that we'll only present quality goods.
Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffmartin17 View Post

absolutely need that distressed western shirt. like instacop. like preinsta instacop. whens the ETA for that???

You're going to absolutely love it! We should have it in the next 3 weeks or so. We're doing something like 50 units of both the Western and the Engineer in this light wash, so they'll be plenty to go around for the initial launch.
post #26969 of 31866
Mike, great to hear about your direction this year! But hold on, did you say black Vass and Carmina models!?? Bring it on! Remember black Vass boot makeup I proposed in your Vass thread? wink.gif
post #26970 of 31866
And got some more preview shots. The denim jacket is in work right now, but here's some snowy pics of the sample on Dylan...





And BTW, Dylan has a very long torso, is over six feet, and is wearing a medium. It looks a little cropped on him because of his proportions, but it's very much a normal length in the body.
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