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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 1795

post #26911 of 31854
Quote:
Originally Posted by bearspoke View Post

Hey all. I'm thinking about ordering some Rudy fit navy hopsack trousers to complement the navy hopsack MTO jacket I had made this past summer.

The Jacket is a Napoli style made up with medium brown horn buttons open patch hip pockets and welted breast. In addition to wearing the trousers on their own I feel like this could make for a nice suit for non-formal social events or just-because business wear

I have three main concerns:

1. Will there be any issues with fabric matching? I know people have done MTO hopsack suits but I don't if in those cases they received a Southwick-made pant rather than a Walt/Rudy. Even if the fabric is the same am I still running a risk of variations in color?

2. Is this jacket makeup just so strongly toward the odd jacket end of the spectrum that wearing it as a suit will look odd?

3. I've never had a chance to try on the Rudy but I'm pretty certain that the cut is going to be better for my body shape than the Walt is (big ol' thighs and tush) I could chance it but I'd much prefer to try on a sample. Does anyone know if either of the New York stores have a range of larger size Rudy samples one could try on?

Any and all feedback is welcome. Thanks muchly.

Very cool!

1) Typically the natural color variance of fabric is a concern when you're trying to make a suit. But in the case of very dark fabrics like this hopsack, it's not really an issue. Yes, there is some tone variance from batch to batch, but that color is so dark that it's really not noticeable at all. We've been running the same hopsack for years, and I've had guys buy the matching pant or jacket 12 months after the first piece. As long as your first piece isn't heavily dry cleaned then you shouldn't see a difference. And even if you've dry-cleaned the hell out if it, it's still pretty minimal and works fine IMO.

But shade variations are something to be conscious of with lighter colored fabric. We'll do OTR Grey Hopsack suit separates this season and those all have to come from the same exact dye lot.

2) It's non-traditional as a suit jacket, but works very well. And nothing's wrong with non-traditional. We've had many guys wear the open-patch, MOP button Napoli as the top half of a suit. It looks very cool and should suffice as formal enough in nearly any setting.

3) We stock Rudy size runs up to 38 in both shops. If you're in NYC you can also schedule a time to meet with Matt (just confirm what store he's at on a given day) and bring in a pair of your own pants that fit you well. He'll measure them out, and we can figure out your closest Rudy size. We'll either nail it completely, or it will be close enough for minor tailoring to dial it in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodman View Post

Stopped by the store last night to pick up a pair of suede Carmina's I ordered a while back off the sales page and while there grabbed a couple of belts (my first 2 Epaulet belts which I'm sure will be great) and I also picked this up from the new EPLA line. Picture doesn't really do it justice - snapped it and the battery died - so it was done in 1 take but it's a really nice looking casual/comfortable piece that I expect to wear a lot. Like all things Epaulet, highly recommended.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Very cool! Thanks for stopping by, and that sweatshirt looks great on you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

@StanleyVanBuren, why the sudden push towards black?

I realize these pants are navy hopsack, but the stark contrast of the photo brought it back to mind

It's an exciting time for menswear. We're seeing a move away from rigid Americana/Workwear/#Menswear styles and more openness towards new designs. We're not going to go all Rick Owens on you guys and make a Hellraiser-ish leather apron, but we're jazzed to introduce some new styles and shapes - primarily though the EPLA line. Back in my Saks days, I bought a lot of black clothing and footwear, and it's cool. The trend was against it over the past few years, but I think that it's coming back and we're going to roll it out in a lot of our items this year.

We'll still be rolling with our usual grey/navy/brown/tan/olive color schemes, but black will just be an option available in more items from us.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd V View Post

I sense something "rain system" in my future.

Mike -- perhaps it is too early to discuss, but I'd love to hear how the Samuelsohn program will compare to the Southwick offerings in terms of fit, construction, value, etc.

Thanks!

Sure, and thanks for asking!

I like to say that both Southwick and Samuelsohn are great values at their respective price points. Kind of like Alden and VASS.

Southwick makes a half-canvassed jacket for a solid price (and a crazy good price in the world of factory finds). Their constructed shoulder is respected as one of the best around, and it cuts a nice shape without looking too built up. Their jackets are very dependable, and we've had many first-time suiting customers pick up their pieces and wear the hell out of them. They look good on the first wear and hold up well. Their MTO program is affordable and has a lot of flexibility. IMO it's a better option than the similar imported competitive pieces out there.

Samuelsohn is a few steps above Southwick in both price and quality. Their jackets are fully canvassed and they make their shoulders by hand. And that soft shoulder is BRILLIANT. Personally, it's the best one that I've seen in North America. And Samuelsohn is not cheap, but is a really exceptional value for the price. Taxes are a part of this. Canadians do not pay tax on fabric when it's imported into a company that does production in Canada. This can be nearly a 25% cost in the States. When we get the finished garments from Canada, they come in tax free due to NAFTA. We'd pay duty and a lot of shipping on a finished garment from Italy.

The end result is a seriously good price on a great jacket, especially when you're using expensive, premium fabric. The 100% cashmere jacket that we carry is $1100. It's certainly an expensive item, but I don't think you could find an equivalent item for anywhere near that price - at least not on some kind of psycho markdown. I was really attracted to work with them for this reason, and we were privileged to design our own slim-fit model with them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by breakHARD77 View Post

This question's for all you Epaulet experts in here. I'm a beginner when it comes to Epaulet, but I'd love to dive in with some good pants for work. Which of the slim Walts would you recommend that would be appropriate for the workplace (and in the best fabrics)?

If you're looking for wools, then the Super 120s and Hopsacks are our best selling and most versatile trousers. Especially in navy and grey. If you want to start with one trouser and see how you like it, then Grey Super 120s is our best-selling workhorse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbear View Post

Hey, so it seems like the MTO shirting will be launch sometime soon, just wondering if you guys will be dropping any OTR shirts in the near future?  

Oh yes. We'll have our Epaulet in-house shirts by New England, our new in-house shirts made by Gitman, and a full line of EPLA casual woven shirting. Should start coming in the next few weeks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post

Will the ribbed wool cuff be removable, then? These sound like great casual chinos, but I don't think I could do the ribbed wool cuff. Or are these in addition to the other new washed chinos you were discussing?

Not on this item - the wool cuff is part of the deal.

But I'm playing with the idea of more slim trousers. You'll see a lot more shapes this season for bottoms. Right now we're planning:

Walt & Rudy Trousers
Driggs Trousers (washed, slimmer than the Walt, lower rise)
Rivet Chino
Ribbed Cuff Chino
Wilshire Jean
Fairfax (Rudy-fit) Jean

But I'll surely come up with more stuff. We'll work to keep the sizing largely consistent so the same size will roughly work across all of the new shapes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

About the SC button/elbow patch request above, are we allowed to request what buttons/etc on any jackets we order, or only done? And is there an MTO cost for this?

MTO's for Southwick cost $100 over the stock price. With that upcharge, you can specify the buttons and choose either suede or self fabric patches. Unfortunately, we can't add patches to OTR items (although you can remove patches easily)
post #26912 of 31854
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiemczee View Post

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Regarding the first one, I remember Mike once saying that there is a possibility that there will be a variance in color between the navy hopsack fabric if you order your jacket and suit at different times, but that the difference should be so small that it would be hard to notice.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beav View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Re: matching - I asked the exact same thing about the navy hopsack, and Adele said it match up fine.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abecedarian View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I ordered the hopsack trousers many months after purchasing the jacket.  The colors were indistinguishable.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyc wid it View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
It's always best to check. I had to wait for another batch of trousers to match my jacket. YMMV.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Very cool!

1) Typically the natural color variance of fabric is a concern when you're trying to make a suit. But in the case of very dark fabrics like this hopsack, it's not really an issue. Yes, there is some tone variance from batch to batch, but that color is so dark that it's really not noticeable at all. We've been running the same hopsack for years, and I've had guys buy the matching pant or jacket 12 months after the first piece. As long as your first piece isn't heavily dry cleaned then you shouldn't see a difference. And even if you've dry-cleaned the hell out if it, it's still pretty minimal and works fine IMO.

But shade variations are something to be conscious of with lighter colored fabric. We'll do OTR Grey Hopsack suit separates this season and those all have to come from the same exact dye lot.

2) It's non-traditional as a suit jacket, but works very well. And nothing's wrong with non-traditional. We've had many guys wear the open-patch, MOP button Napoli as the top half of a suit. It looks very cool and should suffice as formal enough in nearly any setting.

3) We stock Rudy size runs up to 38 in both shops. If you're in NYC you can also schedule a time to meet with Matt (just confirm what store he's at on a given day) and bring in a pair of your own pants that fit you well. He'll measure them out, and we can figure out your closest Rudy size. We'll either nail it completely, or it will be close enough for minor tailoring to dial it in.
Very cool! Thanks for stopping by, and that sweatshirt looks great on you!
It's an exciting time for menswear. We're seeing a move away from rigid Americana/Workwear/#Menswear styles and more openness towards new designs. We're not going to go all Rick Owens on you guys and make a Hellraiser-ish leather apron, but we're jazzed to introduce some new styles and shapes - primarily though the EPLA line. Back in my Saks days, I bought a lot of black clothing and footwear, and it's cool. The trend was against it over the past few years, but I think that it's coming back and we're going to roll it out in a lot of our items this year.

We'll still be rolling with our usual grey/navy/brown/tan/olive color schemes, but black will just be an option available in more items from us.
Sure, and thanks for asking!

I like to say that both Southwick and Samuelsohn are great values at their respective price points. Kind of like Alden and VASS.

Southwick makes a half-canvassed jacket for a solid price (and a crazy good price in the world of factory finds). Their constructed shoulder is respected as one of the best around, and it cuts a nice shape without looking too built up. Their jackets are very dependable, and we've had many first-time suiting customers pick up their pieces and wear the hell out of them. They look good on the first wear and hold up well. Their MTO program is affordable and has a lot of flexibility. IMO it's a better option than the similar imported competitive pieces out there.

Samuelsohn is a few steps above Southwick in both price and quality. Their jackets are fully canvassed and they make their shoulders by hand. And that soft shoulder is BRILLIANT. Personally, it's the best one that I've seen in North America. And Samuelsohn is not cheap, but is a really exceptional value for the price. Taxes are a part of this. Canadians do not pay tax on fabric when it's imported into a company that does production in Canada. This can be nearly a 25% cost in the States. When we get the finished garments from Canada, they come in tax free due to NAFTA. We'd pay duty and a lot of shipping on a finished garment from Italy.

The end result is a seriously good price on a great jacket, especially when you're using expensive, premium fabric. The 100% cashmere jacket that we carry is $1100. It's certainly an expensive item, but I don't think you could find an equivalent item for anywhere near that price - at least not on some kind of psycho markdown. I was really attracted to work with them for this reason, and we were privileged to design our own slim-fit model with them.
If you're looking for wools, then the Super 120s and Hopsacks are our best selling and most versatile trousers. Especially in navy and grey. If you want to start with one trouser and see how you like it, then Grey Super 120s is our best-selling workhorse.
Oh yes. We'll have our Epaulet in-house shirts by New England, our new in-house shirts made by Gitman, and a full line of EPLA casual woven shirting. Should start coming in the next few weeks.
Not on this item - the wool cuff is part of the deal.

But I'm playing with the idea of more slim trousers. You'll see a lot more shapes this season for bottoms. Right now we're planning:

Walt & Rudy Trousers
Driggs Trousers (washed, slimmer than the Walt, lower rise)
Rivet Chino
Ribbed Cuff Chino
Wilshire Jean
Fairfax (Rudy-fit) Jean

But I'll surely come up with more stuff. We'll work to keep the sizing largely consistent so the same size will roughly work across all of the new shapes.
MTO's for Southwick cost $100 over the stock price. With that upcharge, you can specify the buttons and choose either suede or self fabric patches. Unfortunately, we can't add patches to OTR items (although you can remove patches easily)

 

 

Thanks to all for your input!

post #26913 of 31854
I want that EPLA sweater! When will we be able to purchase those online?
post #26914 of 31854

I did a MTO grey hopsack jacket months after ordering the trousers (and after the grey hopsack was restocked) - they look look the same to me.  And I'm used to working graphic assets with super-high attention to detail.  YMMV, though.

post #26915 of 31854
Full EP rigout tooday. EPLA Western shirt over EPLA olive tee, Rust steep twill Walts, and burnished scotchgrain WWII Carmina boots.



And here's an awkward angle photo of the boots since they are hidden in the snow in the shot above.

post #26916 of 31854
Anyone have the Japanese Twill Aubergine Walts - thoughts on the fabric? Are they "too purple" for a conservative office environment?

Mirin' the fabric and considering an order before the new Rudy order system goes up next week. Considering two: the Aubergine and then UK Navy Sanded Canvas to kick off my summer-weight trousers in style.
post #26917 of 31854
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

Anyone have the Japanese Twill Aubergine Walts - thoughts on the fabric? Are they "too purple" for a conservative office environment?

Mirin' the fabric and considering an order before the new Rudy order system goes up next week. Considering two: the Aubergine and then UK Navy Sanded Canvas to kick off my summer-weight trousers in style.

I work in a conservative office and my thought was yes, far too purple for work. However, I'm in a charcoal suit mod days. I returned them because the size was wrong but might get them for spring.
post #26918 of 31854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abecedarian View Post

I ordered the hopsack trousers many months after purchasing the jacket.  The colors were indistinguishable.

Same experience.
post #26919 of 31854
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

Anyone have the Japanese Twill Aubergine Walts - thoughts on the fabric? Are they "too purple" for a conservative office environment?

Mirin' the fabric and considering an order before the new Rudy order system goes up next week. Considering two: the Aubergine and then UK Navy Sanded Canvas to kick off my summer-weight trousers in style.

Aubergine is pretty purple. I'd say that their wearability depends on how conservative you mean. If you were able to wear those wool rivets to work without an issue, then I think that these would be no problem. They're not any louder than that.

I absolutely love purple trousers. A nice way to wear them is not turn it up to 11, and make everything else very undersated. Navy jacket, white shirt, navy tie with subtle pattern. PURPLE TROUSERS, and snuff suede shoes. They're the one part of your fit that's really calling out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

Full EP rigout tooday. EPLA Western shirt over EPLA olive tee, Rust steep twill Walts, and burnished scotchgrain WWII Carmina boots.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


And here's an awkward angle photo of the boots since they are hidden in the snow in the shot above.


Good to see those boots being put to a proper test!
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrispy650 View Post

I want that EPLA sweater! When will we be able to purchase those online?

We should have them online for next week. They came out great - they're available in grey and navy, and go for $95
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanl View Post

I did a MTO grey hopsack jacket months after ordering the trousers (and after the grey hopsack was restocked) - they look look the same to me.  And I'm used to working graphic assets with super-high attention to detail.  YMMV, though.

We purchased a lot of that fabric last season - all from the same dye lot - so we were able to do concurrent production runs of jackets and trousers.

We'll do the same this year - so if you buy a grey trouser next month then you can buy a matching jacket for it anywhere up to June or so. But if you bought a trouser/jacket last year, then chances are you'll see some shade variation if you try to buy the matching piece from this year's fabric. Not a huge amount, mind you - and probably subtle enough that most guys wouldn't care. But it will be there.
post #26920 of 31854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

Not on this item - the wool cuff is part of the deal.

But I'm playing with the idea of more slim trousers. You'll see a lot more shapes this season for bottoms. Right now we're planning:

Walt & Rudy Trousers
Driggs Trousers (washed, slimmer than the Walt, lower rise)
Rivet Chino
Ribbed Cuff Chino
Wilshire Jean
Fairfax (Rudy-fit) Jean

But I'll surely come up with more stuff. We'll work to keep the sizing largely consistent so the same size will roughly work across all of the new shapes.

 

Had thought the wool cuff was part of the Driggs Trouser, but I see now that they're separate items. Looking forward to seeing how the Driggs comes out!

post #26921 of 31854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post

We purchased a lot of that fabric last season - all from the same dye lot - so we were able to do concurrent production runs of jackets and trousers.

Is there any of this grey left to special order another matching pair of Walts?
post #26922 of 31854
Sample Show!

This past week was huge for new samples and fabrics. Lots of good stuff to show. Everything here is from the EPLA line. We'll have some new EPNY merchandise coming shortly as well.

First up is our Western shirt with a hand-distressed finish. It's amazing to see how these are finished. They're made in denim, put through both an enzyme wash and a stone wash, and then sanded by hand while they're still wet. One more rinse and it's all done. Our distressing guy is phenomenal at this...







Next is our EPLA overdyed oxford. We'll launch the full EPLA shirting collection within 6-8 weeks. This is made in the same factory as the denim shirts and has reinforced double-needle seams. These will be a nice casual compliment to the EPNY shirts and the upcoming Gitman pieces. I don't have final pricing yet, but it's going to be very good. Oxford is still Japanese pima cotton, and we're using an organic overdye. The hand on these is amazing - easily the best feeling OD shirt that I've touched.





Got some shots of the Wilshire in Overdyed Black. This is the same 14oz Kaihara denim with a natural black dye wash on top of it. As you wear the jeans, the black will slowly wash out and reveal the blue underneath. It's also gives a more uniform black finish than black denim as both the warp and weft are dyed black. Should be here in about two months. We'll do a dark navy OD model too.





And I've gotten a bunch of PM's about the upcoming Grey Selvedge Wilshire Jeans. They'll arrive in about 3 weeks, along with a restock of indigo and the new White Selvedge. Here's a pic of the grey laid alongside the indigo. It's an awesome color, and pretty rare to get from a good Japanese mill. We'll have enough to make about 75 jeans.

post #26923 of 31854

Damn, Epaulet is going to make me broke.

 

Is that same Black OD Kaihara denim going to be used for the Denim Jacket as well?

post #26924 of 31854
Quote:
Originally Posted by JilSlander View Post

Damn, Epaulet is going to make me broke.

Is that same Black OD Kaihara denim going to be used for the Denim Jacket as well?

Haha, that's what we're here for. The Denim Jacket is actually made out of 14oz Cone Mills White Oak Selvedge. Same denim that we used for the Selvedge Chino. We'll OD it black too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanl View Post

Is there any of this grey left to special order another matching pair of Walts?

Not of the original run, we sold out of that months ago. It's worth ordering a pant from the new fabric though. Chances are that it will look just fine worn together with the jacket (although I can't guarantee that). Worst case, you end up with a new pair of staple grey trousers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post

Had thought the wool cuff was part of the Driggs Trouser, but I see now that they're separate items. Looking forward to seeing how the Driggs comes out!

You know it! I think that the Driggs is going to be your jam. Planning delivery on that around 2/15
post #26925 of 31854
That grey looks killer! I cannot wait
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