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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 1742

post #26116 of 31270
Maybe I'm missing something, but that coat looks relatively conservative to me.

Couple of questions:

- Does anyone know if removing the Epaulet tag on the inside of the waistband is going to cause any damage? My assumption is no, but I figured I could post first in case someone else has already done it and can speak to the effects.

- I think there was some mention of the tapered, lighter-weight, overdyed chinos that may be in the offing having felled seam construction rather than busted seam construction to help keep the cost down. What's the difference in cost between busted and felled seams?

I ask because I just got a couple of pairs of heavyweight brushed twill chinos back from the tailor - they were a little snug at first, possibly because of the heavier weight (I'm guessing that consistent external measurements + thicker fabric --> smaller internal measurements) - and the tailor was able to loosen them up to the point that I may bring them back to have them taken back in a hair.

It seems a shame to sacrifice one of the nicer construction elements in the interest of keeping prices down, but I don't know how the difference actually plays out in terms of manufacturing and retail costs.
post #26117 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by wj4 View Post

Question for the older vets in here: what's the oldest pair of shoes or boots you have?

I only started buying fine footwear several years ago so not too long on my end.

Well, I'm really pretty new to higher quality shoes myself, but I have a pair of Alden #8 PTBs that I bought at the start of 2008, and also a pair of the Alden Cape Cod collection that probably go back to 2005. The Cape Cod pair got worn regularly for a while and was refinished once by Alden.
post #26118 of 31270
Question:

Anyone who had a package ship from NY on Friday have it arrive saturated with cigarette smoke?

I've ordered enough times to know it's not typical, but when I opened my order I was blasted with the smell of stale cigarette smoke. Everything in the box smelled of it. The chinos, the Epaulet garment box (both inside one of those large ziplocks they use).

It's not a real big deal, I can wash or air out the chinos, but I'm curious to know if I'm the only one. There's a chance it could have happened somewhere in the USPS chain of distribution, but it seems like they would have had to bathe the box in the stuff for it to permeate the whole package.
post #26119 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post

Maybe I'm missing something, but that coat looks relatively conservative to me.
.

True. I guess I meant is it too much country and not enough city from a menswear perspective?
post #26120 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd V View Post

Gents -- is the Callenish tweed overcoat too funky for the Corporate office? I'm in a charcoal grey or navy suit four days a week.

 

Definitely good for office attire, even a fairly CBD office.

post #26121 of 31270
Agreed it's a dope coat. I'd buy it if I was certain a 40R would fit over 38R EP sportcoats.
post #26122 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by wj4 View Post

Question for the older vets in here: what's the oldest pair of shoes or boots you have?

I only started buying fine footwear several years ago so not too long on my end.

why do you want to know?

I have a pair of Bally loafer (corrected grain, Rapid-Blake construction) purchased in 1997. Still going strong. It's my rainy weather beater shoe now (has Topy)
post #26123 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by wj4 View Post

Question for the older vets in here: what's the oldest pair of shoes or boots you have?

I only started buying fine footwear several years ago so not too long on my end.

I bought my first pairs of Aldens - captoes bluchers in black and burgundy cordovan -- 22 years ago.  both have been reheeled numerous times and resoled 4-5 times.  I still wear them regularly with suits.  Because the world (even my work world, which is a conservative one) has gotten more casual and I wear suits less and less often, these shoes get worn less and less often.  But both pair are still in great shape and look fantastic.  With minimal care, cordovan is very durable.  

post #26124 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by wj4 View Post

Question for the older vets in here: what's the oldest pair of shoes or boots you have?

I only started buying fine footwear several years ago so not too long on my end.

Surprisingly, at least to me, it is a pair of black calf Tod's sneakers in their sleeker bowling shoe style. Bought them in 2001. I probably only wear them once a month these days, but for years they were my go-to weekend and casual shoe and they've been around the world. The soles are still in great shape and when shined up they look essentially brand new.
post #26125 of 31270
I am a little surprised to see so many great trousers lingering in the sale section. The windowpane flannels should move quickly. But there are also a number of good warm weather choices there. Lots of good linen. And I quite like my pale blue ticking stripe Rudys, in case anyone was considering those.
post #26126 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

Well, I'm really pretty new to higher quality shoes myself, but I have a pair of Alden #8 PTBs that I bought at the start of 2008, and also a pair of the Alden Cape Cod collection that probably go back to 2005. The Cape Cod pair got worn regularly for a while and was refinished once by Alden.
Hey Frank,

How did you know when it was time to resole your Alden Cape Cod? Holes started forming?

With me just wearing the shoes to the car, and the office...I think it will be quite a while before I need resoling. But good to know nonetheless.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee_44106 View Post

why do you want to know?

I have a pair of Bally loafer (corrected grain, Rapid-Blake construction) purchased in 1997. Still going strong. It's my rainy weather beater shoe now (has Topy)
Just curious is all. I know quality footwear can last for decades.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aldenwear View Post

I bought my first pairs of Aldens - captoes bluchers in black and burgundy cordovan -- 22 years ago.  both have been reheeled numerous times and resoled 4-5 times.  I still wear them regularly with suits.  Because the world (even my work world, which is a conservative one) has gotten more casual and I wear suits less and less often, these shoes get worn less and less often.  But both pair are still in great shape and look fantastic.  With minimal care, cordovan is very durable.  
Holy cow. This is what I'm talking about! 22 years ago...amazing. Surely you got your money's worth smile.gif

My first pair of quality shoes were Alden LWBs in 2009 or so. Here's hoping to 20 years more!

Quote:
Originally Posted by budapest12 View Post

Surprisingly, at least to me, it is a pair of black calf Tod's sneakers in their sleeker bowling shoe style. Bought them in 2001. I probably only wear them once a month these days, but for years they were my go-to weekend and casual shoe and they've been around the world. The soles are still in great shape and when shined up they look essentially brand new.
Wow, amazing. I don't think I can drop serious moolah on sneakers. The most I paid was around $400 or so for on sale Lanvins.
post #26127 of 31270
Secret Santa / Mr. Clemson:

Thank you. And well done sir, well done.

post #26128 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reveille View Post

Alright guys, I wanted to get some feedback from you before I order my next pair of MTO pants.  Keeping in mind that I'm in SoCal, which one of the following would you choose?



Grey Wool Corduroy Rivets



Walts



Chestnut Corduroy Walts

I'd recommend Chestnut Cord out of those three. Wool Cord Rivets would be very wearable here too. Chessboard tweed is really heavy - probably too thick for SoCal.

And if the price is doable then consider those cotton-cashmere cords. I promise that you will love those trousers like none other. It's absolutely unreal how nicely they make up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wj4 View Post

Question for the older vets in here: what's the oldest pair of shoes or boots you have?

I only started buying fine footwear several years ago so not too long on my end.

Great question! I tend to wear and sell my shoes pretty frequently, so my oldest current pair is an Alden Longwing in Whiskey Shell. Got that when we ran them in Spring '10 or so.

But I did have a pair of Alden Color #8 longwings that I had from about 2000 to 2007. I wore them a lot but never wore them out. Ended up selling them at a consignment store and still getting 50 bucks for them despite all of the use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd V View Post

Gents -- is the Callenish tweed overcoat too funky for the Corporate office? I'm in a charcoal grey or navy suit four days a week.

Absolutely not. That coat is slim but otherwise quite conservative and it would be great for a corporate office. I think that you could wear it in any dressy setting. Harris Tweed is very much "in the cannon."
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post


- Does anyone know if removing the Epaulet tag on the inside of the waistband is going to cause any damage? My assumption is no, but I figured I could post first in case someone else has already done it and can speak to the effects.

- I think there was some mention of the tapered, lighter-weight, overdyed chinos that may be in the offing having felled seam construction rather than busted seam construction to help keep the cost down. What's the difference in cost between busted and felled seams?

I ask because I just got a couple of pairs of heavyweight brushed twill chinos back from the tailor - they were a little snug at first, possibly because of the heavier weight (I'm guessing that consistent external measurements + thicker fabric --> smaller internal measurements) - and the tailor was able to loosen them up to the point that I may bring them back to have them taken back in a hair.

It seems a shame to sacrifice one of the nicer construction elements in the interest of keeping prices down, but I don't know how the difference actually plays out in terms of manufacturing and retail costs.

I've never removed the tag, but I don't see why not. Use a seam ripper to do it cleanly. And if anything becomes unanchored (I don't think that it will), then it's nothing that a tailor or dry cleaner couldn't fix.

Felled seams vs. split seams is a fair difference in price. We'd be able to shave maybe $10 off the retail. Not a huge amount. I was cruising for feedback more for durability's sake. There's no question that felled seams are stronger than split ones - that's why they're used on tougher garments like jeans. Seam failures are pretty rare with our chinos, but they can happen. Even though they're easily fixed, using a felled seam would pretty much eliminate even that remote possibility. I'd be open to changing, but most of the feedback that we received was like yours - guys really liked the option to easily tailor the chinos. So we're sticking with things as is.

That said, I'm running through a sample of a new VERY casual chino which would have that detail. It would also be garment dyed, enzyme washed to a crazy softness, and have a ribbed cuff at the bottom. A fairly directional streetwear-ish piece to rock with sneakers or boots. A bit of a departure from our normal style, but we're brainstorming on a lot of fun and fresh concepts for EPLA.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wsumarine View Post

Question:

Anyone who had a package ship from NY on Friday have it arrive saturated with cigarette smoke?

I've ordered enough times to know it's not typical, but when I opened my order I was blasted with the smell of stale cigarette smoke. Everything in the box smelled of it. The chinos, the Epaulet garment box (both inside one of those large ziplocks they use).

It's not a real big deal, I can wash or air out the chinos, but I'm curious to know if I'm the only one. There's a chance it could have happened somewhere in the USPS chain of distribution, but it seems like they would have had to bathe the box in the stuff for it to permeate the whole package.

I got your email about this, and I'm really sorry that this happened. I honestly have idea how it occurred. We've shipped thousands and thousands of boxes, and I've never before heard of this.

We pack the boxes in the back and the basment of our shops - neither of which allow any smoking. And the guy who does the majority of our packing is a very staunch non-smoker and kind of a health fanatic. There's no way that any kind of cigarette smoke got in our end. It must have somehow happened with USPS, although getting inside the plastic poly bag is pretty hardcore. Apologies for that!

Is it possible that your mail carrier is this guy smile.gif


Quote:
Originally Posted by oisin View Post

Secret Santa / Mr. Clemson:

Thank you. And well done sir, well done.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Oh man, that's awesome! Remind me to make Mr. Clemson's my secret santa next year. We need moonshine too!
post #26129 of 31270

Can't go wrong with moonshine for xmas

post #26130 of 31270
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaulet View Post


That said, I'm running through a sample of a new VERY casual chino which would have that detail. It would also be garment dyed, enzyme washed to a crazy softness, and have a ribbed cuff at the bottom. A fairly directional streetwear-ish piece to rock with sneakers or boots. A bit of a departure from our normal style, but we're brainstorming on a lot of fun and fresh concepts for EPLA.

Make it baggy/drop crotch, sounds awesome!
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