to some degree the seat is affected, even if only very marginally. since it's a precut piece of cloth, if you only took in the waist without somewhat adjusting the seat it would just bunch at the waistband seam.
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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 1567post #23491 of 412729/10/13 at 4:52pm
Styleforum Top Pickspost #23492 of 412729/10/13 at 5:05pmpost #23493 of 412729/10/13 at 6:58pmQuote:
Late to this conversation but my experience also is that tweeds breathe slightly more easily than flannels. Mike's advice to start out with the Oxford Grey Flannels is excellent. Ultimately you may prefer the feel or look of one fabric over another. The one thing flannel has going for it is that you can pick it up in a variety of different weights very readily. A lightweight flannel trouser is really the bees knees for fall and early spring. That being said, tweed is probably my single favorite fabric, so I own several tweed trousers as well. They're both worth owning.Quote:
It really depends on your body type, but your tailor should take the seat in if you need to -- which s/he should be able to judge. If your tailor doesn't automatically mark the seat with his chalk, then ask him to do so if you want the seat tightened up. (It's tougher to let the seat out again, though, than it is to let out the waist.)post #23494 of 412729/10/13 at 8:28pmQuote:Originally Posted by Epaulet
I advise everyone to start with the Oxford Grey Flannels.
These are hands-down the most versatile Fall/Winter trousers that you can own. Comfortable, long-wearing, and they match nearly anything. Dress them up with a blazer or down with boots. They won't be too hot, and no worries about them looking like snow pants .
Oxford Grey or the Navy Flannel. I've narrowed my choices. What is your reasoning of the Oxford Grey over the Navy flannel?post #23495 of 412729/10/13 at 8:36pmpost #23496 of 412729/10/13 at 8:57pmpost #23497 of 412729/10/13 at 9:39pmpost #23498 of 412729/11/13 at 4:19amQuote:
i'd say because the oxford gray is a true gray. almost exactly what a flannel trouser should look like when you think of a flannel trouser. the navy is a marl, not a solid traditional navy, so a bit (like, extremely marginally) more difficult to match.post #23499 of 412729/11/13 at 5:39amI think the navy marl is actually easier to match than a standard solid navy pant, just because the solid color has a better chance of being mistaken for orphaned suit trousers. The navy marl has a really interesting texture that makes it a great odd trouser. Having said that, I agree the oxford grey flannel is probably the perfect first choice for a F/W dress trouser.post #23500 of 412729/11/13 at 6:47amQuote:Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse
I think the navy marl is actually easier to match than a standard solid navy pant, just because the solid color has a better chance of being mistaken for orphaned suit trousers. The navy marl has a really interesting texture that makes it a great odd trouser. Having said that, I agree the oxford grey flannel is probably the perfect first choice for a F/W dress trouser.
If I'm buying flannel, my first choice is gray because flannel looks best in gray. If I'm buying worsted wool or otherwise, navy is my first choice, then gray.post #23501 of 412729/11/13 at 8:11amQuote:Originally Posted by applky
It really depends on your body type, but your tailor should take the seat in if you need to -- which s/he should be able to judge. If your tailor doesn't automatically mark the seat with his chalk, then ask him to do so if you want the seat tightened up. (It's tougher to let the seat out again, though, than it is to let out the waist.)
Your tailor will or should mark the seat, or will automatically taper it in.
It disagree, though, that the seat is more difficult than the waist. You can let out a seat slightly without touching the waist, but cannot let the waist out without doing a bit of work to undo the waistband. I say this with experience as I do my own alterations.
That being said, if you take in the waist/seat, then let it out after wearing, you may see marks/fading/wear on the fabric that isn't there on the part that was just let out again.post #23502 of 412729/11/13 at 8:53amQuote:
Does that mean the oxford grey flannel trousers will pair nicely with my Red Wing Beckman Black Cherry boots?
Also can I special order the Rudy Trousers to pick up instore? I don't live in the US but I'll be coming down this Christmas. Epaulet is sure to be my first stop!post #23503 of 412729/11/13 at 11:21am
X-post from the Carmina MTO Thread
I wanted to show you guys the Hatchgrain belt sample we just received.
It came out BEAUTIFULLY and is a nice option we can offer those of you who ordered one of the makeups! If you didn't, don't worry, this is an open call. Read below for more info:
Here's the details
- We only have enough leather to cut about 12 units and it's going to be another 2-3 months before we can get more of the leather. Since we only have a small quantity, the belts will be cut to order.
- The belts will be made to our standard shape. 32MM or about 1.25" wide. They'll fit nicely in just about any pair of pants you own. You have the choice of a brass or silver buckle.- This is the same leather that was sent to Carmina, but they may be a bit lighter than the resulting boots. Carmina typically finishes every shoe with several coats polish, so they end up darker than the original skin. The belts will not be polished. So they may not be exact, but they'll be very close.- We can make any size from 30 to 44 (waist size 28 to 42).- Belts will be $95 and the lead time is 4 to 6 weeks.If this is interested to you guys, feel free to drop me a PM.
Edited by leftofthedial - 9/11/13 at 11:57ampost #23504 of 412729/11/13 at 11:30amI bought a pair of rivet chinos a couple weeks ago that are great. My only problem is that they're a little tight, and since they haven't stretched much, I'm wondering what my options are. Would a good tailor be able to make a little more room in the waist / hips, or am I stuck trying to stretch them out?
Photo attached, although it's not great! Thank you.
- Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread
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