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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 1359

post #20371 of 33973
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Hope that's not the jacket you're selling Rob. It's a keeper IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

All sorts of great, Rob.
post #20372 of 33973

Mike,

 

Question about the Southwick jackets: As you can see from my last photo, the one issue with the fit that I seem to be having is the "sleeve pitch" as I'm told over in MC it's called. In other words, the angle of the sleeve is causing it to wrinkle/drape oddly when my arms are at my side. To be frank, I've always had this problem and it's, in my view, kind of a minute detail that I ignored so long as everything otherwise was a good fit. But now that I'm actually investing in decent stuff, is this something I ought to have a tailor fix, and do you recommend having this done?
 

post #20373 of 33973
Sporting cherry red 7oz RCs and EpxAlden Natural Longwings today.

Feeling spiffy.

Unfortunately no mirror adequate for a shot.
post #20374 of 33973
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

Mike,

Question about the Southwick jackets: As you can see from my last photo, the one issue with the fit that I seem to be having is the "sleeve pitch" as I'm told over in MC it's called. In other words, the angle of the sleeve is causing it to wrinkle/drape oddly when my arms are at my side. To be frank, I've always had this problem and it's, in my view, kind of a minute detail that I ignored so long as everything otherwise was a good fit. But now that I'm actually investing in decent stuff, is this something I ought to have a tailor fix, and do you recommend having this done?
 


I have the same issue with my jackets due to my upright stance. The upper back of the sleeve wrinkles when standing still.

You'd need to have a tailor remove the sleeve and reattach it, rotated slightly backwards. PutThisOn had a great animated .gif of "sleeve pitch":

http://putthison.com/post/31733049740/sleeve-pitch-styleforum-member-tailorgod-has-a

It can be an intensive surgery that could cost a lot.
post #20375 of 33973
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Argentino View Post

Sporting cherry red 7oz RCs and EpxAlden Natural Longwings today.

Feeling spiffy.

Unfortunately no mirror adequate for a shot.

El,

 

What color/style shirt are you wearing? I have yet to pull out my new cherry RC's and am wondering how to wear them.

 

Thanks

post #20376 of 33973

Cramerton Walt's today

 

post #20377 of 33973
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterloo 360T View Post

El,

What color/style shirt are you wearing? I have yet to pull out my new cherry RC's and am wondering how to wear them.

Thanks

Basically a navy button down w/ micro print:

AppleMark
post #20378 of 33973
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

Mike,

Question about the Southwick jackets: As you can see from my last photo, the one issue with the fit that I seem to be having is the "sleeve pitch" as I'm told over in MC it's called. In other words, the angle of the sleeve is causing it to wrinkle/drape oddly when my arms are at my side. To be frank, I've always had this problem and it's, in my view, kind of a minute detail that I ignored so long as everything otherwise was a good fit. But now that I'm actually investing in decent stuff, is this something I ought to have a tailor fix, and do you recommend having this done?

 

SVB, I would not do this, even with a master tailor. Here's my take.

1. Through my experience with bespoke clothing, this is the single most difficult aspect of fit to perfect. In the chest, shoulders and waist, there's canvassing and/or padding to allow for some forgiveness which more easily allows a less than perfect fit, where as the sleeve is simply fabric and lining. Its also the most three dimensional part of the coat, and one wrong move could not only make it look worse, but make it less confortable and even unwearable.

2. Even with my bespoke garments, sometime the pitch can be slightly off, and thats with the man (or woman) who chose the fabric, cut the pattern, cut the cloth, did the fittings all keeping the work to him/herself. Its just a damned difficult part of the jacket to perfect and even with it in the same hands from start to finish it may not come out "perfect". Now you're gonna ask someone who doesn't know the construction of the jacket as intimately to try and work something very complex? You most likely won't be happy with the outcome Which leads to...

3. I think sleeve pitch issues, as we know them, have only become relevant with the rise of online fora like this one, and digital/instant photography. SInce most of us aren't in our natural state when we pose for these shots, it often is the case that the pitch is good, but we clam and stiffen up, making it look off in the picture and every Johnny come lately can comment of how you got ripped off, and the fit is "wrong". Its all bullshit. Especially when you look at in from the perspective of a stiff one time shot. We wear our clothes and the move with us as we do. We don't stand still all day with our arms at our sides, so a slight adjustment in stance, and BOOM, sleeve pitch issue is gone. Essentially its an issue for the anals over in MC to get over, and get through their heads that it may not be the fit, but the stance, and that in your natural daily movements isn't an issue at all.

I think that by combining these three issues it makes perfect sense NOT to play around...the results of a botched pitch invasion are often worse than the original, and it'll cost you a pretty penny.

Hope this makes sense.
post #20379 of 33973

Thankfully my sleeve pitch is easy. But looking at SVB pictures, you can see it's not the best. Maybe post a picture from the side in a natural state then where your arms have to be to show no sleeve issues?

 

NYI brings up good points. But I wonder where the threshold is between "not bad enough to pay for it" and "bad enough to pay for it" to get fixed. 

 

No offense SVB. Your fits are pretty amazing but I do see the issue.

post #20380 of 33973
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

But I wonder where the threshold is between "not bad enough to pay for it" and "bad enough to pay for it" to get fixed. 

This would apply IF there was someone good enough to do it...don't know the LA tailor scene too well.
post #20381 of 33973

NYI, that's hugely helpful, thanks for the very well informed and thought out response.

 

I do have a tailor here in LA that has accomplished quite a number of odd requests over the last 7 years (and I understand some other Epaulet customers go to him as well) but it sounds like this one is not worth attempting.
 

post #20382 of 33973
post #20383 of 33973
Don't think your creative use of "pitch invasion" went unnoticed, NYI. thumbs-up.gif
post #20384 of 33973
Well said, Rob. Some of the postures in the pictures are horrible which make the items appear ill fitting.
post #20385 of 33973
i miss kgmessier's posts/fits.
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