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Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread - Page 1342

post #20116 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkIslander View Post

This is always a tough one with sportcoats...as much as measurements and your stats help, nothing tells the tale like trying the jacket on. I've learned a ton through my bespoke experience, and befriending my tailor, and this is one of those things. If you can get into NYC to do this I would. If not, maybe you can find a cheap one on B&S ...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse View Post

macjedi - I've ordered long size jackets from Epaulet, and the whole pattern is changed to compensate for the extra length. So if you're worried about balance, you can rest assured that it won't be just a regular sized jacket with an extra inch lopped off the overall length of the body and arms. However, if you're worried about the rest of the fit, it would be best to try on one of the stock jackets and go from there.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by applky View Post

 

As Beatlegeuse said, if you order a short or long, the entire pattern is adjusted. Same if you special order an in-between size (I wear a 37 Napoli, for instance). One thing to bear in mind: HY's shoulders tend to be broader than Epaulet's. An HY 36 has a 17" shoulder, which is the shoulder measurement on an Epaulet 38. If you had a little room in the shoulders with the HY, an Epaulet 36R might be perfect for you anyway. Matt, Mike, and Adele are always happy to give really detailed sizing advice over e-mail or over the phone.

 

Thanks for the great comments fellas!  I'm much more confident.  I really want a lightly constructed hopsack, so I think I'll try a ready-made before I go for the MTO.  

 

Sorry if this is already been discussed in detail, but is the OTR Caine equivalent to the Southwick MTO half-canvassed 3/8 lined option?  And the Napoli equivalent to the Southwick MTO unconstructed 3/8 lined option?  Just trying to get my facts straight. :)

 

Thanks again!!!

post #20117 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by stmaier View Post

Were you guys going to offer all of the Rivet fabric options in the Rudy MTO program or just the duck canvas? Would love to get the Khaki, Gunmetal, Pumice, and Brushed Graphite in the Rudy fit.

 

That's something we'll do in the future. For now only the Leaf, Navy and Caramel duck is available for the Rudy. The UK sanded canvas is a nice option and pretty similar to the canvas we use for Rivet Chinos. We have a nice khaki, a grey (gunmetal), navy and olive. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Omar1223 View Post

mike or matt or anyone else on the thread, can you compare the navy label OCBDs with the custom ones? is the fabric the same? i bought a navy label white and blue and am wondering if i should get a special order OCBD as well hahah

 

The fabric is similar. They're both Japanese Oxford cloth. I'll say that the MTO options are a bit more stiff at first, but break in beautifully. At this point I think I personally own at least 6 different versions of the blue OCBD. It will feel similar to the Navy Label after a few wears and washes.

 

Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

I'd love to get in on the MTO sport coats, but I'm concerned about the fit. I recently had to return a couple jackets from Howard Yount because the arm holes and pockets were set too low for me. I'm 5'5", 130lbs. 36S drop 6.

The measurements look good, and the MTO options allow you to shorten the length, but I'm concerned that the "balance" will still be set lower. In other words, wouldn't I be ordering a shorter "regular-sized" jacket; opposed to an actual "short-sized" jacket? If this is true, would it make sense for me to order and return an OTR jacket to see how the unaltered length and fit is?

Anyhoo, I'd love to get some perspective on this. If anyone has any advice or experience that would help me … I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse View Post

macjedi - I've ordered long size jackets from Epaulet, and the whole pattern is changed to compensate for the extra length. So if you're worried about balance, you can rest assured that it won't be just a regular sized jacket with an extra inch lopped off the overall length of the body and arms. However, if you're worried about the rest of the fit, it would be best to try on one of the stock jackets and go from there.

 

Originally Posted by applky View Post

 

As Beatlegeuse said, if you order a short or long, the entire pattern is adjusted. Same if you special order an in-between size (I wear a 37 Napoli, for instance). One thing to bear in mind: HY's shoulders tend to be broader than Epaulet's. An HY 36 has a 17" shoulder, which is the shoulder measurement on an Epaulet 38. If you had a little room in the shoulders with the HY, an Epaulet 36R might be perfect for you anyway. Matt, Mike, and Adele are always happy to give really detailed sizing advice over e-mail or over the phone.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

 

 

 

Thanks for the great comments fellas!  I'm much more confident.  I really want a lightly constructed hopsack, so I think I'll try a ready-made before I go for the MTO.  

 

Sorry if this is already been discussed in detail, but is the OTR Caine equivalent to the Southwick MTO half-canvassed 3/8 lined option?  And the Napoli equivalent to the Southwick MTO unconstructed 3/8 lined option?  Just trying to get my facts straight. :)

 

Thanks again!!!

 

 

These guys are correct. Everything is done on a CAD machine, so it compensates for the proportions of a short, long or Xlong based on the regular pattern.

 

And you're correct, the OTR Caine is the 3/8 lined option and the Napoli is the unconstructed 3/8 lined option. Both jackets are half canvassed. The Caine, Weller and Daltrey shapes use Southwick's natural shoulder. The Napoli has no padding in the shoulder. It's slightly more structured than an LBM or Boglioli jacket, but that's an Italian specialty.

 

And just to note, Southwick's "natural shoulder" has gotten increasingly better. Any of you guys that ordered FF jackets can chime in, but it's a lot softer and more, well, natural than it was this time last year. They've really outdone themselves.

 


Quote:
Originally Posted by jimney View Post

Do the Napoli and Caine navy hopsack sportcoats use the same fabric?  They look different in the pictures, but I'm not sure if that is a color-balance issue.  And is the fabric for the MTO navy hopsack sportcoats the same as one of them?

 

Yep. They're both the same Italian Hopsack. The photos are different mainly because of the lighting. If you can't tell, they're taken two completely different places. And the light near the Brooklyn store (where the Caine pics were taken) is pretty awful for fit photos. I would say that the Napoli photo is an accurate depiction of how it looks in natural light.

post #20118 of 37450
How does the current Southwick version of the Napoli compare to the old made-in-Italy jackets?
post #20119 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by prozach1576 View Post

How does the current Southwick version of the Napoli compare to the old made-in-Italy jackets?

 

It's a better fit, overall. The Italian jackets had higher armholes and was, possibly, the slimmest fitting product we've ever made. The Napoli has the same ease about it, but generally works for more dudes.

 

That said, if anyone has a Marcello in 46 they'd like to get rid of, particularly the guncheck, shoot me a PM. biggrin.gif

post #20120 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by prozach1576 View Post

How does the current Southwick version of the Napoli compare to the old made-in-Italy jackets?
 

I have two of each, and I prefer the Napoli. It's lighter in the whole shoulder area. I still do like the old Marcellos very much, but the Napoli is superior. Also I think the bemberg lining that Southwick uses for the Napoli is more breathable, which is great for summery fabrics.

post #20121 of 37450

I wish Epaulet did a slimmer line on trouser cuts - any possibility of this?

 

I'd love to buy more/recommend more to my friends because the fabric and quality is great but the cuts are too full!

post #20122 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftofthedial View Post


That said, if anyone has a Marcello in 46 they'd like to get rid of, particularly the guncheck, shoot me a PM. biggrin.gif

PM'ed you, Matt.
post #20123 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rincon View Post

I wish Epaulet did a slimmer line on trouser cuts - any possibility of this?

I'd love to buy more/recommend more to my friends because the fabric and quality is great but the cuts are too full!
The Walt is already slim for most.

You can have a tailor slim down whatever you want FYI. I've done this on certain Walts, from taking in the rear, crotch, taper, etc.
post #20124 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rincon View Post

I wish Epaulet did a slimmer line on trouser cuts - any possibility of this?

I'd love to buy more/recommend more to my friends because the fabric and quality is great but the cuts are too full!

I think if they did it may not work so well for them...most guys can't wear that super skinny stuff, and I think its a nice balance of a conservatively slim cut that makes their gear so appealing. At least thats the case for me, its slim, but not skinny. A lot of the guys that work there ARE that skinny, and they simply get the stuff tailored for relatively small expense. See some of Matt's stuff for what I mean.
post #20125 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkIslander View Post


I think if they did it may not work so well for them...most guys can't wear that super skinny stuff, and I think its a nice balance of a conservatively slim cut that makes their gear so appealing. At least thats the case for me, its slim, but not skinny. A lot of the guys that work there ARE that skinny, and they simply get the stuff tailored for relatively small expense. See some of Matt's stuff for what I mean.

 

I feel when I slim legs it throws off balance of the pants... I had some success sizing down (32 instead of 34) and expanding the waist but unfortunately need an extra half inch of fabric which isn't there to make them comfortable.  

post #20126 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkIslander View Post

I think if they did it may not work so well for them...most guys can't wear that super skinny stuff, and I think its a nice balance of a conservatively slim cut that makes their gear so appealing. At least thats the case for me, its slim, but not skinny. A lot of the guys that work there ARE that skinny, and they simply get the stuff tailored for relatively small expense. See some of Matt's stuff for what I mean.
I think that's their goal, to make slim fitting clothes that's not skinny.

I've done what you've said on some, and have no problems. I'm a size 31 so on a lot of the Walts, I get a 32 and recut.
post #20127 of 37450
I couldn't imagine going with a slimmer leg on them. They're a very nice slim modern fit as is.
post #20128 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rincon View Post

I wish Epaulet did a slimmer line on trouser cuts - any possibility of this?

I'd love to buy more/recommend more to my friends because the fabric and quality is great but the cuts are too full!

i don't know about slimmer overall, but the lower half of the leg on the walt is a bit flarey. i wouldn't mind the top half staying the same with a slight taper below the knee.
post #20129 of 37450
Quote:
Originally Posted by imolazhp_ci View Post

i don't know about slimmer overall, but the lower half of the leg on the walt is a bit flarey. i wouldn't mind the top half staying the same with a slight taper below the knee.

+1 but this is an easy fix. I take a 34 waist and the just taper to 7.5 inches below the knee. Fairly straightforward tailoring task.
post #20130 of 37450

In this operation would the tailor normally adjust both seams and leave the crease alone, or would they adjust one seam and move the crease?  Or perhaps there is some other method that I haven't considered.

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