• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The SwissArmySuit™: a sartorial strip tease

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Ahh...where to begin?

This is a two part strip tease...today, some photographs and comments, and on Thursday, I'll complete the details and provide more photographs illustrating how the suit operates.

Once upon a time, Manton was getting a casual odd jacket made up in navy fresco, and instead of putting metal blazer buttons on it, he settled on brown horn. The jacket had other features to make it more casual: patch hip out pockets and swelled edges. While the jacket was being made, he had the thought that trousers in matching material could made the combination pass for a versatile suit, particularly good for travel. The Amazing BlazerSuit was born...read all about it here.

Right around the same time that Manton posted that thread, I was thinking myself about a way to cut down on the number of things that I packed for trips. But, I wanted a wider gulf between formal and casual than what the ABS offered. An idea hatched in my mind, and I discussed it with my tailor, Edwin DeBoise of Steed. It just so happened that on that very trip, he, too, began thinking about this problem because of an experience that he had at the airport.

Unravelling all this has taken a lot of time, effort, and experimentation. It has also taken a cutter, a tailor, and finish tailors of unusual patience and good humor. I learned that I was not the first to take this approach, but Edwin, Steed's tailor Ron Hardy, and I had no direct knowledge of how the, uhm, engineering problems had been solved in the few mythological cases of the past. Every solution had to be invented.

I love the result. It is exactly all that I had hoped.

So, today, here are some opening photographs. On Thursday, there will be more and we'll go into how the specifics were handled.

The SwissArmySuit™:

502707929_SdyJm-X2.jpg


Steed (Edwin DeBoise) SB soft roll to 1 single-button bespoke three piece suit in navy Holland & Sherry 13/14oz fresco (for those of you who care, this is a model with the front cut). Double breasted shawl vest. Buggy ermazine lining. Single pleat trousers with English back.

Closeup of the jacket, shirt, tie and square:

501932114_44JxX-L.jpg


Jacket open:

502707921_fTwFR-X2.jpg


Jacket without vest:

502707912_deKXx-X2.jpg


Trouser detail...English back with no back pockets:

502707917_76ytJ-L.jpg


Some shots of the DB vest. I love a DB vest because of how they cut straight across the front, which to my eye looks more trim.

502708051_XEqFb-L.jpg


Just two vest pockets, with the signature DeBoise pleats going into the pockets:

502708059_iRqqZ-L.jpg


A flip of the vest lapel to show the hidden **** for a watchchain, should I decide to Sator it up:

502708067_6EURq-L.jpg


Can you guess what the secret is? Whether you can or cannot, stay tuned for the answers on Thursday with demonstration photographs.


- B
 

antirabbit

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
3,728
Reaction score
155
Wow, that looks great.
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff
Is Steed coming to give some commentary on how he catered to your mad scientist desires?

He's too sensible to do that. I think that they might have put my photograph on the dartboard at the local pub in Carlisle...


- B
 

Toiletduck

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
2,499
Reaction score
11
Thats one great suit. I think its one of ur best ones.
 

Closer

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
273
Reaction score
3
looks great on you - can't wait to see what makes it a "swiss army suit"
 

Parker

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 9, 2005
Messages
8,895
Reaction score
15,881
I hope you got the extra corkscrew pocket.
smile.gif
 

aragon765

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Messages
567
Reaction score
63
As usual with this high-level sartorial discussions, I don't really understand what I am seeing, but I like it. Interested to see what part II brings, I am think the pants double as a blazer, the coat for underwear, and the waistcoat for shorts, a la Thom Browne. Will be amazing to see....
 

Philosoph

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2007
Messages
1,127
Reaction score
3
I'm thinking the sleeves are detachable and can be transferred between the jacket and vest to go from SB to DB.
 

Sebastian

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2008
Messages
988
Reaction score
56
If this is the first reversible suit, Vox will be my new sartorial hero and he will remain it for a very long time...
bounce2.gif
 

srivats

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
3,907
Reaction score
52
Vox, I frickin' love this suit. As I have said before, I personally think that you look much better donning undarted jackets, your physique supports it. The houndstooth tie, cordovan shoes and the polka-dot pocket square are a PERFECT match. I want that tie! The suit look kinda stiff in the 'jacket only' photo, makes me think something else is on the other side. but my mind boggles at how the lapels/sleeves etc would have worked. I don't think this is a reversible jacket, too clichÃ
00a9.png
... I think the secret lies in the vest. Maybe it attaches to the front in a weird way to make this a DB? Naah, that would be a Transformer™ jacket. Oh wait! Maybe the vest becomes a jacket! The longer you make me wait, the crazier my imagination is going to be. You have been warned!
 

srivats

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
3,907
Reaction score
52
Originally Posted by Philosoph
I'm thinking the sleeves are detachable and can be transferred between the jacket and vest to go from SB to DB.

I thought about that ... even if the engineering is possible, there is the problem of length on the vest. So I dropped the idea. We have to think out of the box - rather out of the suit.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 91 37.9%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 89 37.1%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 25 10.4%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 39 16.3%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 37 15.4%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,795
Messages
10,591,869
Members
224,311
Latest member
akj_05_
Top