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My Balmoral Boots - Page 35

post #511 of 843
you can ask for a better grade of leather for an upcharge. horween is available, his standard leather looks pretty good tough as others have said
post #512 of 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
perhaps Cliff might decide to do this full time and leave his current full time job for greener pastures.

Make that a past tense and you're back to the future.
post #513 of 843
Hello Everyone,

New poster but long time lurker. I also want to thank everyone for this very interesting and timely thread.

I have been looking around a long time for someone who would be willing to work with my designs and lasts and Cliff is definitely that person.

I have been in contact with Cliff and he is willing to work with the last in the attached photo.
I just finished this particular version and will be sending it to him tomorrow.

Here is what I call a "Xenon bespoke last" somewhat inspired by a chisel toe but what I would describe as a spitzer toe and definitely armor piercing
I know these may not be everyones cup of tea but it just goes to show how versatile and accommodating Cliff is considering how extreme this appears.

I have requested an ankle boot using this last. The foot portion will be a whole cut design and allthough I requested a top laceup I think I will ask Cliff if he can do a side laceup. I any regards Cliff will make me a trial boot and we will finalize the design.
LL
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LL
post #514 of 843
^^^^^
interesting lasts, what experience have you had in last making?
post #515 of 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenon View Post
Hello Everyone, New poster but long time lurker. I also want to thank everyone for this very interesting and timely thread. I have been looking around a long time for someone who would be willing to work with my designs and lasts and Cliff is definitely that person. I have been in contact with Cliff and he is willing to work with the last in the attached photo. I just finished this particular version and will be sending it to him tomorrow. Here is what I call a "Xenon bespoke last" somewhat inspired by a chisel toe but what I would describe as a spitzer toe and definitely armor piercing I know these may not be everyones cup of tea but it just goes to show how versatile and accommodating Cliff is considering how extreme this appears. I have requested an ankle boot using this last. The foot portion will be a whole cut design and allthough I requested a top laceup I think I will ask Cliff if he can do a side laceup. I any regards Cliff will make me a trial boot and we will finalize the design.
Looking forward to the finished shoe with trepidation.
post #516 of 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrigglez View Post
^^^^^
interesting lasts, what experience have you had in last making?

None until about 6 months ago. This is my fourth set so far but none have really been tested. I do alot of serious cabinet making and wood carving (mostly busts) as a hobby though.

Also I don't presume to really know anything about last making or how to compensate for improper gait ect, but approched this as simply duplicating my feet in wood as closely and anatomically correct as possible (taking into account heel height ect) and incorporating a toe box design. The proof will really be in the trial boot even though I don't expect any surprises.
post #517 of 843
How do you know what the final product will look like?
post #518 of 843
Received my shoes this morning. Almost perfect fit.
post #519 of 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by banis View Post
Received my shoes this morning. Almost perfect fit.

shame about the colour though
post #520 of 843
That last looks strictly for the ladies. Have a stiletto put on!
post #521 of 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir James View Post
How do you know what the final product will look like?

Actually I worked backwards, as I suspect shoe designers do.

I knew exactly what I wanted the final shoe to look like and went from there. The shoe exists in complete 3 D form in my mind-all the info is there. It is just a matter of putting it on paper.

There are 3 parameters that affect the final shoe: 1)The form, 2) the color (including leather type ect), 3)ornamentation (broguing, decorative stitching. multiple pieces of leather for appearance ect)

I wanted my first shoes with cliff to be sleek and focus on shape and thus gone is all ornamentation and hence a whole cut approach.

for the form/shape: Form has several factors including heel height, toe box design and the shape of my feet. From the designs I drew I took the heel height and this set the geometry of my feet (with such heel my feet are my feet and nothing else will change). Normally only the height difference between ball and heel will affect geometry of static feet. I say this because I am not a last maker or knowledgeable in orthotics and will not attempt to alter anything else bio mechanic. As such a bespoke last should be an identical copy of the foot at a particular height differential. The internal cavity of the shoe is set by the last and will match the external surface of the feet and this also directly translates to the external surface of the shoe as well given the relative evenness of leather all around the upper. After this the only design I need to play with is the toe. Here the sky is the limit. In fact the toe area is the only place where the last is not a copy of the surface of the foot- it must only be at least big enough to provide room for the toes.

With the latitude in toe design I chose a very slim/ pointed chisel toe to achieve maximum sleekness with an element of square/sharpness i have and will always like (in all objects includings cars ect).

You can see where heel hieght and toe shape are the major elements of form given someones feet and assuming a true close bespoke fit elsewhere on the feet. Other secondary elements of form will involve actually heel shape, sole shape, how much welt is visible ect.

I obviously want a very tightly tucked welt and more so at the waist with beveling added.

Given all this I need to provide the last to Cliff as well as drawings showing profile, birds view, sole view, and back view and then discuss colors as a final step. In my case a dark gray, or black or midnight blue with a vibrant shocking color (think Duchamp like fuschia) for the lining.

I may try some ornamentation with subsequent pairs from Cliff since if all works out with the first pair he will be very busy with my future orders.


banis, nice shoes. I actually like the color!
post #522 of 843
Banis, thanks for posting

I retract and delete my previous comments...thanks for the clarification Baron
post #523 of 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
Banis, thanks for posting

Here is a guy courageous enough to post his shoes and all you clowns can do is throw out that they have a whiff of homosexuality to them

+1
post #524 of 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by banis View Post
Received my shoes this morning. Almost perfect fit.


I think they are great! I love the color.

I had a pair of red corthays I regret selling.

How is the fit off? Was this Cliff's version of the 888 last?
post #525 of 843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vox Populi View Post
That last looks strictly for the ladies. Have a stiletto put on!

In reality this last is quite close to that of a roach killer toed cowboy boot. The last is design for a 1 & 3/8 inch heel and the geometry would be totally wrong for a 4" heel

I am actually almost finished making a 3 inch stiletto heel boot last for my wife and one of my sisters. Those lasts are truly works of art in their own right. In fact in bronze (or solid silver ) they would by worthy for their own display room. Cliff doesn't know it yet but I will be asking him to make them some pairs with these if he is willing
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