Originally Posted by Sir James
How do you know what the final product will look like?
Actually I worked backwards, as I suspect shoe designers do.
I knew exactly what I wanted the final shoe to look like and went from there. The shoe exists in complete 3 D form in my mind-all the info is there. It is just a matter of putting it on paper.
There are 3 parameters that affect the final shoe: 1)The form, 2) the color (including leather type ect), 3)ornamentation (broguing, decorative stitching. multiple pieces of leather for appearance ect)
I wanted my first shoes with cliff to be sleek and focus on shape and thus gone is all ornamentation and hence a whole cut approach.
for the form/shape: Form has several factors including heel height, toe box design and the shape of my feet. From the designs I drew I took the heel height and this set the geometry of my feet (with such heel my feet are my feet and nothing else will change). Normally only the height difference between ball and heel will affect geometry of static feet. I say this because I am not a last maker or knowledgeable in orthotics and will not attempt to alter anything else bio mechanic. As such a bespoke last should be an identical copy of the foot at a particular height differential. The internal cavity of the shoe is set by the last and will match the external surface of the feet and this also directly translates to the external surface of the shoe as well given the relative evenness of leather all around the upper. After this the only design I need to play with is the toe. Here the sky is the limit. In fact the toe area is the only place where the last is not a copy of the surface of the foot- it must only be at least big enough to provide room for the toes.
With the latitude in toe design I chose a very slim/ pointed chisel toe to achieve maximum sleekness with an element of square/sharpness i have and will always like (in all objects includings cars ect).
You can see where heel hieght and toe shape are the major elements of form given someones feet and assuming a true close bespoke fit elsewhere on the feet. Other secondary elements of form will involve actually heel shape, sole shape, how much welt is visible ect.
I obviously want a very tightly tucked welt and more so at the waist with beveling added.
Given all this I need to provide the last to Cliff as well as drawings showing profile, birds view, sole view, and back view and then discuss colors as a final step. In my case a dark gray, or black or midnight blue with a vibrant shocking color (think Duchamp like fuschia) for the lining.
I may try some ornamentation with subsequent pairs from Cliff since if all works out with the first pair he will be very busy with my future orders.
banis, nice shoes. I actually like the color!