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Cifonelli suits vs Kiton, Brioni and Borrelli?

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I occasionally see suits from Cifonelli here and there.They seem to have tons of handwork ala Kiton ,Brioni,and Borrelli.(Let's not forget Attolini and Isaia, too)The Cifonelli suits are not quite as high priced-in the high $2000 dollar range.However,I'm wondering where they stand in the heirarchy of fine Italian RTW suits? I know there's also lesser knowns which are pretty nice-Cantarelli,Caraceni,SaintAndrews-all excellent,but not as highly regarded as the big 3 or 4 aforementioned.Why is this? Are consumers too label sensitive and therefore paying more(too much?) for the big names?Or is it lack of availability of the lesser knowns, making them more obscure and therefore not as popular?
post #2 of 17
I'm not one of those fellows with an encyclopedic knowldge of suits, but based on my own Cifonelli... Cifonelli sold in the US is made by Nervesa (i.e., a large suit manufacturer, not the small bespoke houses in Rome or Paris). I think they have a decent amount of handwork, but nothing in the range of a Kiton or Attolini; I don't have any Borrellis to compare. The shoulder and collar work, for example, seems to be machine-made. The lapels are likely machine-padded (if not, horror of horrors, partly fused). Handwork in some of the flashy parts, like the lining, but not in others, such as the button holes. I think the most apt comparison is St. Andrews, both in terms of fit, price, and quality. Both have a more "English" fit than some of the Italian makers, such as Borrelli seems to have, and considerably less of that breezy, drapey feel like Isaia or Kiton. You should be able to find them less than the $2000 price if one looks, but I'm a skin flint.
post #3 of 17
Everything I've ever seen by Cifonelli (shirts, sweaters, slacks, suits) has been beautiful -- great fabrics and construction. The suits I've seen seem to have a large amount of visible pick stitching, both on the outside and even more so on the inside of the coat. If I saw one of these for the right price in my size, I'd buy one. Cifonelli seems to be pretty hard to come by in the US. Neimans used to carry it here in DC, and may still in a limited amount. It's a rarity on EBay. I've seen it at Filene's when they get a shipment from one of the NYC dept. stores (Barney's/Bergdorfs). Also, www.virtualclotheshorse.com always seems to have a decent stock of Cifonelli.
post #4 of 17
I have a navy cashmere peacoat by Cifonelli.  It has internal drawstrings about the waist.  I wore the coat to Jil Sander once, and the salespeople couldn't get over how beautiful the damned buttons are.  The materials Cifonelli uses are pretty hard to match.  No experience with suits.  Ask Manton.
post #5 of 17
I had a Super 180s DB Cifonelli suit a couple of years ago that I then sold on Ebay. I thought it was phenomenal.
post #6 of 17
Quote:
I had a Super 180s DB Cifonelli suit a couple of years ago that I then sold on Ebay. I thought it was phenomenal.
Why did you sell it? Do you mean the craftsmanship was phenomenal?
post #7 of 17
It wasn't my size. It was a 40R and I bought it for cheap at an outlet to resell. Yes, the construction was wonderful, everything you could hope for. Fully canvased, all sorts of handwork, pants had great curtained waistband, etc. It was a really nice suit.
post #8 of 17
i had 2 cifonelli suits in my inventory this last time, but both sold rather quickly. they were grey flannel w/ kiwi pinstripe. very cool looking. one was my size and i would have considered it but it sold.
post #9 of 17
Best comparisons in terms of quality are Belvest, Zegna Napoli (Napoli, NOT Couture,) and Cantarelli, as Cifonelli suits don't have handstitched buttonholes. The prices are a bit high IMO, but the cuts and fabrics are pretty distinctive so they could be a good choice for some. The pants are an excellent value, better quality than many brands that cost more.
post #10 of 17
Quote:
I occasionally see suits from Cifonelli here and there.They seem to have tons of handwork ala Kiton ,Brioni,and Borrelli.(Let's not forget Attolini and Isaia, too)The Cifonelli suits are not quite as high priced-in the high $2000 dollar range.However,I'm wondering where they stand in the heirarchy of fine Italian RTW suits? I know there's also lesser knowns which are pretty nice-Cantarelli,Caraceni,SaintAndrews-all excellent,but not as highly regarded as the big 3 or 4 aforementioned.Why is this? Are consumers too label sensitive and therefore paying more(too much?) for the big names?Or is it lack of availability of the lesser knowns, making them more obscure and therefore not as popular?  
There are quite a few of those brands. Like Rafaele Caruso, Sartoria Partenopea etc. Pretty good price/quality ratio.
post #11 of 17
I took a Super 180s Cifonelli I purchased to a custom tailor in NY to have modified, he looked in the pocket at the tag and pronounced it made by Kiton and showed me on the tag where it indicated it.
post #12 of 17
Show us a pic of that label. All the Cifonelli's I've seen were definitely Nervesa.
post #13 of 17
I expect to pick it up in a week or so... I'll show it then... it wasn't the label that says Cifonelli that he pointed to, rather the tag that is inside the inside breast pocket which contains the style number and other details.
post #14 of 17
Quote:
I took a Super 180s Cifonelli I purchased to a custom tailor in NY to have modified, he looked in the pocket at the tag and pronounced it made by Kiton and showed me on the tag where it indicated it.
Demo, Enter the RN number from the inner label into this website (at the Federal Trade Commission) -- it'll tell you who made the suit. https://rn.ftc.gov/pls/TextileRN/wrnquery$.startup Sometimes this site offers surprising results.
post #15 of 17
Quote:
I expect to pick it up in a week or so... I'll show it then... it wasn't the label that says Cifonelli that he pointed to, rather the tag that is inside the inside breast pocket which contains the style number and other details.
I can't find the RN number on my tag. But the big blue N suggests that it was made by Nervesa.
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