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Help me spend my suit $$ - Page 3

post #31 of 40
No, there is no Caruso store in Soho. I don't have the name of the store, but it was on West B'way, just a few blocks after Ari and they carried Pal Zileri as well. B
post #32 of 40
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all of your advice. I decided to take the plunge and schedule an appointment with Chan when they visit Dallas in July. I think the A&S English silhouette is close to the Neapolitan and may suit my physique quite well. So if the A&S English silhouette is close to the Chan "house style", they should be able to do it well. As my appointment time approaches, I'll probably post a list of features I want in a suit and ask many more questions about styling details (This will be my first experience with anything other than RTW). Thanks again.
post #33 of 40
Quote:
Thanks for all of your advice.  I decided to take the plunge and schedule an appointment with Chan when they visit Dallas in July.  I think the A&S English silhouette is close to the Neapolitan and may suit my physique quite well.  So if the A&S English silhouette is close to the Chan "house style", they should be able to do it well. As my appointment time approaches, I'll probably post a list of features I want in a suit and ask many more questions about styling details (This will be my first experience with anything other than RTW). Thanks again.
Chan's house style is nothing like A&S, at least in my understanding of the A&S style. Chan normally uses a far more built-up shoulder than A&S, and does not cut their suits with the looseness and drape across the chest and shoulder blade that A&S does. Chan can make the shoulders differently with relative ease, but I don't know how successfully they can duplicate the drape cut.
post #34 of 40
Quote:
Chan's house style is nothing like A&S, at least in my understanding of the A&S style.  Chan normally uses a far more built-up shoulder than A&S, and does not cut their suits with the looseness and drape across the chest and shoulder blade that A&S does.  Chan can make the shoulders differently with relative ease, but I don't know how successfully they can duplicate the drape cut.
Can anyone characterize the Chan house style as emulating a particular English house?  I have a couple suits from them but insufficient knowledge of silhouettes to do anything more than distinguish between sack and "other". dan
post #35 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Thanks again.
Chan's house style is nothing like A&S, at least in my understanding of the A&S style. Chan normally uses a far more built-up shoulder than A&S, and does not cut their suits with the looseness and drape across the chest and shoulder blade that A&S does. Chan can make the shoulders differently with relative ease, but I don't know how successfully they can duplicate the drape cut.[/quote] Thanks for the warning. I've read posts describing Chan's shoulders as rather built up and advice from johnnynorman3 to specify "really light padding", but I honestly haven't figured out what "drape" means yet. Reading manton's HOF post on suit silhouettes helped, but pictures would be even more helpful (I think I'm still confused about differences between "swell" and "drape" and especially about how different styles differ. Does "swell" refer to how far the jacket is lifted or built up off the chest, whereas "drape" refers to how vertically it hangs?). I guess I'm where dah328 is, I can distinguish a sack suit or American cut, which I don't like, but I don't have enough experience to distinguish between the others (I did look at Attolini recently and noted the really, really high gorge).
post #36 of 40
Take a look at this thread from Ask Andy for some photos of Anderson & Sheppard work (among others). http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/F...?TOPIC_ID=4609
post #37 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Take a look at this thread from Ask Andy for some photos of Anderson & Sheppard work (among others). http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/F...?TOPIC_ID=4609
Thank you. What great examples of various English silhouettes. (I had forgotten about Darren's post) I do like some of those sports jackets of Darren's shown in the post. Interesting that he he says "My own personal style was once described as a classic Huntsman/Kilgour look, coupled with a softness approximating that of an Anderson" Do you think Chan could reproduce the look if I provided several pictures? P.S. I see that Darren has copyrighted the post, so I probably need to ask his permission to download pictures.
post #38 of 40
I haven't read thru the entire post linked below, but initially it left me skeptical of Chan. Seeing the number of times the name comes up on this group, I assume this is an anomaly? I would proceed carefully based on the pictures here: http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....60;st=0
post #39 of 40
Quote:
I haven't read thru the entire post linked below, but initially it left me skeptical of Chan.  Seeing the number of times the name comes up on this group, I assume this is an anomaly?  I would proceed carefully based on the pictures here: http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....60;st=0
I had very minor issues on my first order from WW Chan, and have subsequently ordered six suits and several shirts, all of which were completely as-ordered and to my liking.  If you search the archives for threads concerning WW Chan you will find many posts that mirror this experience with US orders--many people have minor issues on their first order, most of which are fixable, and which WW Chan generally fixes with no charge to the customer.  One cannot expect perfection on a suit prepared from a single measuring session, and indeed you can find past posts here or at Ask Andy about botched major-label MTM suits or even botched multi-fitting bespoke work. I do think Jester's experience was an anomaly and is clearly something the company needs to fix.  I do not recall seeing anyone else post with problems of that magnitude, or problems that WW Chan refused to fix.
post #40 of 40
Thread Starter 
I did search the forum for "Chan" before emailing them to make an appointment and had followed jester's thread as it unfolded. I agree that his experience seems to be an anomaly and I think it has not yet been resolved. Most forum members seem pleased, albeit to varying degrees, with Chan's work. My expectations for a first suit from Chan, based on one visit for measurements are not exceptionally high, but I'll do my best to arrive armed with as much information as possible about my preferences, including pictures if possible. There's also a slight chance that I'll intersect with Chan in Northern California in November, but that seems like a long time between fittings, July to November. Might be worth it, though.
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