Jlibourel, I expect you're right that I'd get a better suit from Chan if I go with their "house style", but I'm not sure what that is. Â
Chan's house style coat has a moderate amount of waist suppression, and they use quite a bit of shoulder padding by default. If you want extreme (or zero) suppression, or very little padding in the shoulders, this would increase the chance of something not working perfectly. On the first suit they made for me, the button stance was a little lower than I like, and the gorge placed a little low as well. Nothing out of the range of wearability IMHO, but not precisely to my liking. Otherwise, the suit fit pretty much dead-on and we have not done any pattern modifications other than changing the gorge and button point. N.B. my original measurements were done by Raymond Kiang, not Patrick Chu who has replaced Raymond. I think the biggest benefit of multiple fittings in their production system is the ability to get a baste fitting to control the construction of the shoulders and lapels, and to get the button placement exactly right. A friend of mine ordered his first WW Chan suit in HK, with three fittings, and I don't think his fits any better than my first suit that was done with no interim fittings. However, he got to determine the shoulders, lapels, button placement, etc., before those items were set, and I did not.