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Help me spend my suit $$ - Page 2

post #16 of 40
How about Corneliani MTM? That should be available for around 1500 dollars. Or Caruso MTM.
post #17 of 40
Where can you do a Caruso MTM? B
post #18 of 40
Quote:
BTW, where can I find the schedule of Martin Greenfield visits. Someone directed me to it on the Brooks Brothers website, I think, but now I can't find the list.
Go to the website and click on the "Men" link. Under the list of items (e.g. suits, shirts, shoes, etc.), the last item is "Special Order." Click on this, and you get a page for the MTM event which has a link to the schedule. Looks like it's pretty much over for now.
post #19 of 40
Quote:
Where can you do a Caruso MTM? B
http://www.raffaelecaruso.it/
post #20 of 40
Quote:
Thanks for your input so far. The sense I'm getting from everyone is that fit should indeed be my first priority, so I should go MTM. Unfortunately, I'm nowhere near NYC, so options are somewhat limited. It occurred to me after my last post re: Chan, that one visit with Chan for measurements is no worse than MTM and would allow me at least to begin building a relationship with them. I'd have a base for suggesting future alterations. What is the turnaround time on their suits? Does anyone know where I can find Jil Sander suits? I recall reading a thread within the past several months where it was also stated that they fit tall slim guys well, so I've been looking around Dallas (Northpark Mall, Galleria), without success. It also seems to me that Ralph Lauren is a little pricey for what you get. Is that true of their blue label suits? Does anyone know entry level price to have a suit tailored in the Oklahoma City or Dallas areas? I could forgo an overcoat for a year, add about $1000 to my budget, and spend $2000-$2500 on the suit.
Turnaround time for Chan is now about three months. I would characterize what you get from Chan (on the road trips) as "custom MTM," as Chan will make the suit to your specifications, unlike true MTM, in which a stock pattern and design simply has its measurements altered to accommodate yours. If you visited one of Chan's shops in Kowloon or Shanghai for multiple fittings, then you would be getting true bespoke. However, at least for suits ordered on tour, I get the sense that the closer you adhere to the "house style" as prescribed by Mr. Chu, the more likely you are to be satisfied to judge from the experiences of other forumites. Of the other options, I am sure there must be a Polo store in Dallas where you could order RLBL MTM. I am also sure that there must be a fair number of other high-end men's shops in the "Big D" that have MTM services and trunk shows.
post #21 of 40
Can anyone give us some more info on raffaelecaruso suits. Im not familar with the brand The website is in itailain. What do they offer? MTM? Who retails that line. What is the cut and house style. Cost?
post #22 of 40
Yoox consistently offers Jil Sander suits at under $1000. Decent return policy as well.
post #23 of 40
I have a Caruso suit that I bought in the SOHO (new york) for $800. SB, Fully Canvassed, double vented. Caruso was praised in AA by Andy as a good bang-for-the-buck. B
post #24 of 40
Caruso is very good value for money. They also produce for Baldessarini. They're full canvas suits, very naepolitan. They do a very nice shoulder construction. Like a handmade shirt, it's called manica a camicie. There is also quite a lot of handwork in a Caruso suit. But it's not Borrelli or Kiton. But very good value for money. I just ordered a S120 MTM suit for 1100 euros.
post #25 of 40
Thread Starter 
Thanks again for the advice. spatten, I'll check out the NM Last Call in Grapevine Mills, just in case they have a deal I can't refuse. I'll also ask next time I'm in a NM whether or not they have Isaia MTM. johnapril, if I'm willing to spend $2500, I could just hit the bottom Zegna MTM range, but would end up spending more, maybe much more, to get fabric I like. LAGuy, I'll cruise the yoox site to see what Jil Sander has to offer. Jlibourel, I expect you're right that I'd get a better suit from Chan if I go with their "house style", but I'm not sure what that is. I guess one of the issues I'm struggling with is the silhouette of suit that I want. I want something relatively trim-fitting, but giving the illusion of some bulk. From manton's HOF post on suit silhouettes, it seems the neopolitan silhouette might work well. Isaia falls into this category, but what about Zegna and Caruso? Are there tailors in the OKC or Dallas areas that could do the neopolitan cut well?
post #26 of 40
Caruso also features the naepolitan silhouette. Zegna is more Milanese. Btw, Yoox is excellent. Very good return policy and pretty much the best webshop I know. A wide range of products. They have some Canali, Caruso, Armani Collezioni (this is the Canvassed line of Armani I think).
post #27 of 40
Caruso will be sold on Yoox usually under the brand name Ma.Co, but I am not sure what ( and if) there are any differences between a R. Caruso suit and a Ma.Co. one. B
post #28 of 40
Quote:
Caruso will be sold on Yoox usually under the brand name Ma.Co, but I am not sure what ( and if) there are any differences between a R. Caruso suit and a Ma.Co. one. B
As far as I know, Caruso is the Brand under which Ma.Co operates. Ma.Co doesn't sound quite as nice as Borrelli, Brioni etc. But they also make quite a few suits for other labels.
post #29 of 40
Quote:
Jlibourel, I expect you're right that I'd get a better suit from Chan if I go with their "house style", but I'm not sure what that is.  
Chan's house style coat has a moderate amount of waist suppression, and they use quite a bit of shoulder padding by default. If you want extreme (or zero) suppression, or very little padding in the shoulders, this would increase the chance of something not working perfectly. On the first suit they made for me, the button stance was a little lower than I like, and the gorge placed a little low as well. Nothing out of the range of wearability IMHO, but not precisely to my liking. Otherwise, the suit fit pretty much dead-on and we have not done any pattern modifications other than changing the gorge and button point. N.B. my original measurements were done by Raymond Kiang, not Patrick Chu who has replaced Raymond. I think the biggest benefit of multiple fittings in their production system is the ability to get a baste fitting to control the construction of the shoulders and lapels, and to get the button placement exactly right. A friend of mine ordered his first WW Chan suit in HK, with three fittings, and I don't think his fits any better than my first suit that was done with no interim fittings. However, he got to determine the shoulders, lapels, button placement, etc., before those items were set, and I did not.
post #30 of 40
I have a Caruso suit that I bought in the SOHO (new york) for $800. SB, Fully Canvassed, double vented. Caruso was praised in AA by Andy as a good bang-for-the-buck. Where in New York did you buy the suit? Are you saying that there is a Caruso store in Soho? If so, do you know the address?
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