I need (want) a new SB suit this summer, one of medium-weight wool for year-round wear, in a dark blue or navy. I love textured fabrics (natural fabrics) and would like something with a textured weave, but that might not be possible on my budget. I've budgeted $1000-$1500 and I've investigated several options. Now I'd like to hear opinions from forum participants about what you think is best. First, my measurements: I'm 6'3" and 160 lbs. I was just measured at 38L, with a 30" waist and 35.5" inseam. I have a 14.5" neck, and a 35.5" sleeve. I have slightly rounded shoulders. My measurements haven't changed appreciably in 15-20 years (Except I somehow lost 2" off my chest. Different workouts, perhaps). Most of what I know about different suit styles and silhouettes I've learned from reading Flusser's "Dressing the Man" and Roetzel's book, as well as posts here and on AskAndy and it seems that I have conflicting preferences: I don't like a lot of excess fabric, but I want to create the illusion of breadth to complement my height. Although I should probably wear full, pleated pants since I'm thin, I hate pleats and would prefer to minimize their number (if I could find them, I'd prefer narrow suit trousers with no pleats and a low rise). Now, for the possibilities: Locally, I have available Samuelsohn MTM, Zegna MTM, Oxxford MTM, and Brioni MTM. I'll be in Washington DC three times between May and September, including a one week business trip in August (and in Rio de Janeiro for 2 weeks in June, but I know nothing about options there). The Brioni, Oxxford, and Zegna MTM are outside my stated budget, though I could suck it up, double the amount I'm willing to spend, and hit the Zegna price range (Oxxford and Brioni ar 3-4 times the $1000-$1500 budget). Since I wear odd jackets much more often than suits, I'd prefer to spend less on a suit and more on sports jackets. I'm also driving distance from Dallas and could make multiple trips there for fittings. My options in the $1000-$1500 range seem to be: (1)\tSamuelsohn MTM for good fit (depending on the local tailor), OK fabric, OK construction. (2)\tSearching Filene's basement in DC three times and searching ebay continuously in hopes of picking up a quality make in my size and having it altered to fit locally. Potentially great fabric, great quality, but only an OK fit (ebay hasn't been very productive for the last several months, though so far I've looked mainly for high-end makers). (3)\tFinding a great tailor in Dallas (or maybe DC? Would three fittings be enough?). I don't know if this is possible in my price range of $1000-$1500, or if I decide to spend more, in the range of, say $2000-$2500. Please share your opinions of my best option(s), what sort of style/silhouette would look best on someone relatively tall and thin, and, if I go the OTR route, what makers provide the best style/silhouette. In other words, what would you do?
post #1 of 40
5/16/05 at 9:42pm