Manton: I did not say there was something wrong with contracting out, and yes, Savile Row has used sub-contractors from the year dot. Your measurements are taken and the cloth is cut on the premises, then it goes to a workshop in the Eastend (where rents are low), gets stitched together, then it goes back and forth in the various stages for fittings and adjustments. A top-class tailor would even used different workshops, specializing in jacket, trousers. waistcoat. Manufacturers have always produced under someone else's label. It used to be the label of the man's shop, like it is still the case at Paul Stuart. But the shirt "made in Italy for Paul Stuart" might well come from the same factory as "Designer X", X's shirt might have more flair and style but it is not better made. "Designers" have taken over the role of the wholesaler and merchandiser. What are Tommy Hilfiger or Ralph Lauren: merchandisers, maybe even merchandisers with genius, but merchandisers non the less. That was the point I was trying to make, style and production qualities do not necessarily go hand in hand. Brioni suits are beautifully made, but they produce some unbelievable stinkers (all white silk with golden embroidery) but then, those suits aim at a different market.