Originally Posted by polar-lemon
I found RL signature to have a VERY structured silhouette- the shoulder in particular was built up and roped, and the waist strong nipped. Almost British.
+1. My RL Signature Label suit and jacket are both heavily structured in the shoulder, even more so than my Black Label. Strong roping and the nipped waist make for a bold silhouette Great stuff though.
Originally Posted by threadbare
Yes, the roped shoulder gave it more of a British look, but the structure was not due to padding. I found the rest quite soft, but YMMV. No doubt a different product from the very soft shoulder of Sartorio, Borrelli, and Kiton.
I know what you mean though. Despite the heavy roping and strong shoulder, the construction through the chest and quarters is very soft. As far as my own opinion goes, I own Corneliani for Polo, Corneliani for RL Signature Label (fully canvassed), Caruso for RL Black Label, and St. Andrews for RL Purple Label. I really like my Black Label suits. I find the fit to work well for me. I agree with the Doc unfortunately that it will probably look dated down the road. I try to convince myself it won't but it probably will. I think however, my RL Signature stuff is more extreme so one could say that it might appear dated as well. But it does have wider lapels. The shoulders are more heavily roped. But other than that, they are very similar. Buttoning point is the same and the waists are both very nipped. They both present in what is my mind a strong shouldered "British" look. I like my Black Label suits for their sleekness and sharp tailored sihouette. I prefer Polo, Sig Label and my Purple Label for odd jackets though. I think Black Label tends too look good with other Black Label. I think Polo is the best choice for odd jackets (but do not like the pants on the suits as I find them large/baggy). I only wish that Polo was more consistent in its sizing. I have a few 38Rs and they all fit a little different. Black Label is consistent in this regard. My favorite would have to be my St. Andrews/Purple Label DB Blazer. Slightly structured shoulders, but so soft it feels like I am putting on an old tshirt. I am also looking towards getting some Sartorios down the road based upon the reviews in this thread and others.