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Quarter-lined Dinner Jacket: a Stroke of Stupidity or Genius? - Page 2

post #16 of 487
Quote:
Originally Posted by Will View Post
4. Is becoming difficult to source, at least according to Thomas Mahon.
5. Is not as nice as the regular silk your tailor normally uses. I have a blue mohair tuxedo from the Harrison's formalwear book. Fully lined it is not hot at all.
post #17 of 487
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post
Nothing to do with the original question (I can't tell you anything about that besides that it makes sense to me that the jacket should be cooler; it has been hot at the balls I attended), but do you think about a black or midnight blue one?

Midnight blue w/ black grosgrain trim.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
5. Is not as nice as the regular silk your tailor normally uses.

I have a blue mohair tuxedo from the Harrison's formalwear book. Fully lined it is not hot at all.

Good to know. The formalwear book is different from the Cape Kid book?
post #18 of 487
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Good to know. The formalwear book is different from the Cape Kid book?

I think so, though I am not sure. All you have to do is ask .
post #19 of 487
Mohair blend and midnight blue together have me nervous. You risk looking a little too rat pack. I would go with either traditional barathea in midnight blue or else the mohair blend in black.

But iammatt has one - if his experience with it is that it is not too shiny, you can ignore this post. On the other hand, he always reminded me of Dean-o.
post #20 of 487
I wouldn't mix formal and quarter lined. My experience with quarter or unlined jackets is that they tend to have a velcro effect with the pants waist and shirt back, often getting caught and not looking very neat. That seems incompatible with a formal event IMO.
post #21 of 487
The ones I am familiar with are not shiny, especially if you go 11 ounce and above. The lightweights seem to have more sheen. 10 /11 ounce wool /mohair is perfect for a DJ, IMO.

I think the Cape Kid book is no more and has been replaced with Cape Breeze. The new book is a bit heavier and I think a better cloth.

Tux shirts made from voile help keep you cool.
post #22 of 487
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
I wouldn't mix formal and quarter lined. My experience with quarter or unlined jackets is that they tend to have a velcro effect with the pants waist and shirt back, often getting caught and not looking very neat. That seems incompatible with a formal event IMO.
I don't have the velcro problem, but I agree that it is not appropriate for formal wear. It just isn't as neat in back, no matter how well it fits.
post #23 of 487
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Tux shirts made from voile help keep you cool.

I couldn't agree more. I had one made in a Sea Island voile and it is fantastic. It feels cooler than wearing nothing.

I like it so much, I've considered ordering some regular shirts from voile, but with the shirt front doubled for opacity. Not sure if this is done.
post #24 of 487
How often do you attend society galas? In this economy, it might make more sense to rent...
post #25 of 487
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I think so, though I am not sure. All you have to do is ask .

I just like having more-than-a-vague sense of what I want before I talk to Mariano--more so that I can understand what he suggests and less so that I can specify something specific.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post
Mohair blend and midnight blue together have me nervous. You risk looking a little too rat pack. I would go with either traditional barathea in midnight blue or else the mohair blend in black.

But iammatt has one - if his experience with it is that it is not too shiny, you can ignore this post. On the other hand, he always reminded me of Dean-o.

I hadn't thught of the shine issue. I guess I figured that mohair was naturally going to have some sheen no matter what. I don't want black cloth. I have an old Armani tux in black serge (awful, awful cloth), and want to get away from it. An irrational aversion, I know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
I think the Cape Kid book is no more and has been replaced with Cape Breeze. The new book is a bit heavier and I think a better cloth.

A ha. Harrison's needs to update their website.

Quote:
Originally Posted by romafan View Post
How often do you attend society galas? In this economy, it might make more sense to rent...

Not often. But every now and then there are weddings and charity events sponsored by my firm to go to. As infrequently as I need to wear a dinner suit, I still need to and there's no alternative.

Me rent? Can you imagine a place that would have anything remotely close to my size? I rented a 38 or 40 short tux to my high school prom; it was one of the worst sartorial experiences of my life.
post #26 of 487
Go with a full lining.

I never saw a dinner suit (or tails or morning coat or stroller) with a quarter or half lining. It looks unfinished.

Even Oxxford, whose "signature" is quarter lining, does a full lining.
post #27 of 487
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Me rent? Can you imagine a place that would have anything remotely close to my size?

Here you go
post #28 of 487
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
I wouldn't mix formal and quarter lined. My experience with quarter or unlined jackets is that they tend to have a velcro effect with the pants waist and shirt back, often getting caught and not looking very neat. That seems incompatible with a formal event IMO.

Helpful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Not so much.

The contrast is startling.
post #29 of 487
It's just for fun yo!

This one looks like it would achieve a high coolness factor...

post #30 of 487
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Tux shirts made from voile help keep you cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chorse123 View Post
I couldn't agree more. I had one made in a Sea Island voile and it is fantastic. It feels cooler than wearing nothing.

I like it so much, I've considered ordering some regular shirts from voile, but with the shirt front doubled for opacity. Not sure if this is done.

If you heat up, voile is the way to go.

I seem to recall something by FNB on double-front voile.


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