A lot of it is about where you go. For example, if you go to the Row, there is a defined standard and expectation of what cloth is used. There are a small number of mills who are well known and the merits of various cloth can be discussed with a degree of confidence (see some of the discussions on H. Lesser or Holland & Sherry, etc). In Hong Kong and other parts of Asia, fabric is all over the map. You can get traditional western style fabric at some places, and others you're getting nylon made to look like wool. And there's a whole range in between. You either need to know your fabric, or you need to trust your tailor. Fabric also tends to run lighter because of the heat. Much of the talk is about people who ran into a tailor who wasn't as honest and/or the individual had the expectation that they were getting something they weren't (you're not going to get the same wool used on Saville Row on a $400-$600 MTM suit). I like MTM, and I've had a good experience so far. My initial set of clothes is coming up on 1-year and doing well. I've just received two new suits that look pretty good. We'll see how they wear. For my money, the single best value in Asian tailoring is MTM shirts. I can't afford the really nice stuff, but here (hong Kong) I can pick up some stunning shirts custom fit for me. As I'm difficult to size, and someone on whom OTR clothes never fit correctly, this is like heaven. Because of my size, I also face a limited shirt fabric selection in the states. Here I can pick any fabric style and know that on the finished shirt any stripes or patterns will match up. I am enthralled by any shirt where the line continues unbroken from shoulder to sleeve and shoulder to back. I'm getting emotional just writing about it. Best of all, these shirts are what I would pay for OTR in the states. On the other hand, if you can wear OTR with no fit problems, you will probably find better deals in the states by keeping a sharp eye on sales. Those Carlo Franco RTW shirts are gorgeous and look like a steal at the closeout price of $80 some dollars. Love that nailhead pattern.