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post #4321 of 4333
Do you guys also taper the thigh or just the knee down
post #4322 of 4333
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Do you guys also taper the thigh or just the knee down
I'm pretty slim, so in most cases the tapering ends somewhere between my knee & thigh. This is with "slim-fitting" trousers … EP Walts, HY Italy & USA. I aim for a tailored, but comfortable fit … I start at the hem and have my tailor pin the excess to the point where I wouldn't want them any slimmer.
post #4323 of 4333
Quote:
Originally Posted by inimitable View Post

As a tall bloke I've been trying to love the USA fit ( they are the Only cut with enough inseam to get the all important 2" cuff that SF dictates and I'm 6"2 tall)

However... Am I the ONLY one to think that they are not a particularly flattering fit off the bat? The leg opening flaps all over the shop. Trying to get used to it, but I think group think does not win here. I'm not particularly slim but I think a tapering to the leg would benefit...

Interested in SF thoughts....

I taper (thighs down to cuff to render a proportional look) all my pants no matter the maker, simply because I want them personalized to my specifics. Cuffs + tapering (+ waist + take out seat) is pretty much standard procedure. Ergo, my Italian fit HY pants and my soon-to-arrive USA fit HY pants will have the same look.

post #4324 of 4333
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

I taper (thighs down to cuff to render a proportional look) all my pants no matter the maker, simply because I want them personalized to my specifics. Cuffs + tapering (+ waist + take out seat) is pretty much standard procedure. Ergo, my Italian fit HY pants and my soon-to-arrive USA fit HY pants will have the same look.

Is that an easy procedure for pretty much any tailor? (Tapering the thigh all the way down) I've only done waist adjustment and hemming
post #4325 of 4333
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post


Is that an easy procedure for pretty much any tailor? (Tapering the thigh all the way down) I've only done waist adjustment and hemming

It's pretty much the same procedure as tapering the pants from knees down. Just starting the procedure higher up the pants. Any decent tailor should be able to do it, but it may take a more experienced tailor to not mess up the balance. Then again, I'm not a tailor. Just tell them to taper the pants equally at the inseam as the outseam. Some tailors have a tendency to just taper from one seam, which usually ruins the looks of the pants.

post #4326 of 4333
If I can be the sole voice of caution here against tapering everything, make sure this is really a good idea for you before sending your nice new trousers under the knife. A few things to consider:

  • Is it going to flatter your shape? Severe tapering in the lower leg will make your abdomen and core look relatively larger.
  • Is it going to make you look like you're wearing clown shoes? A small ankle opening and not-small shoes will have that effect.
  • Are you comfortable with the longevity of this trend? Leg opening size is of course a cyclical thing. They went wide in the 70s, narrower in the 80s, and so on. Maybe SW&D-sized ankles will be around another year, maybe 10 years, but it is a fashion and it will run its course.
  • Can you achieve the desired result another way? I find that if I have a relatively straight leg trouser that feels or looks a little loose at the ankle, pressing a nice crease into it usually does the trick, making the pants visually narrower from the front without messing up my no-break steez.

Not saying you shouldn't do it if you want to, but SF groupthink tends to result in generalizations that overlook parameters that might not apply to you.
post #4327 of 4333
I have my pants tapered to 7.25 inches
I wear a UK6/US7D in most shoes so I don't think leg opening is too small compared to shoe

Bought my first two trousers from HY and if say quality is on par with my mtm pants

Would definitely buy more if more pants with side adjusters are stocked in the future
post #4328 of 4333

Interesting discussion re tapering trousers.  I just picked up my new HY trousers in the USA cut from being hemmed (linen and fresco), and my first impression is that these are not as slim/tapered in the lower leg as I want.  I thought that by sizing down I would get the same taper as the size up in the Italian fit and similar to the Epaulet Walt, but these are definitely slightly fuller in the leg.  I may get these tapered just a bit since I really like the look of the Walt and the Italian fit, but that adds to the cost of course.  I'm a size 8 (true size) shoe fwiw.

post #4329 of 4333

Lambswool Flannel and the Super 120s D-Ring Fall Flannel are the only flannels regularly stocked in USA fit, correct? If so, looks like I need to jump on those lambswool flannels now while they're in stock.

post #4330 of 4333
If anyone wants to sell me one of these puppies in sz 42, let me know.

post #4331 of 4333
Quote:
Originally Posted by unjung View Post

If anyone wants to sell me one of these puppies in sz 42, let me know.


I just got one in a 40 and I'm keeping it!

Good luck!
post #4332 of 4333

Can anyone comment on the quality of the sweaters. The look alot like certain Scott and Charters models I've seen. Do they make HY's sweaters?

post #4333 of 4333

The cashmere sweaters are excellent.  I've commented before on how some of the Made-in-Scotland cashmere sweaters have two tags, including all of the new ones from last fall; I am pretty sure those are made by William Lockie.  There used to be some cashmere from Scotland with a single tag and I traced a code on one of the tags to Lyle and Scott.  I think that is all sold out now.  I don't know who makes the lambswool but the size chart for those has always been different so it may be a third maker.

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