As a quick side bar, when I was picking out fabric for my suit w Raphael, he made a point to steer me away from Loro Piana. Â He said that he would use it if I wanted it, but the fabric is not up to the standard of say Lesser. Â In particular, he said that LP fabric has only one cross thread vs two, and therefore doesnt hold up as well to lateral stresses that you find at the knee and seat.
Not every knowledgeable person is so negative. I posed more or less that question to a SR tailor who was quick to show a few books that he liked. "Of course, sir, some of it is just rubbish. But these are rather nice." Just the same, I'll bet that there would have been no qualification on his opinion of Lesser.