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"Handmade Shoes for Men" by Vass & Molnar - Page 2

post #16 of 29
I have it as well, fun just to flip through
post #17 of 29
Originally Posted by stilmacher View Post
I think it isn't very good.

Which other books in the English language, do you consider a better introduction into shoes and shoemaking?
post #18 of 29
I like the book. If anything, it makes one appreciate the time and skill the goes into making a quality pair of shoes. My only quibble is the advice on shoe care, which I think is a bit thin. I refer to the "Ten Golden Rules of Shoe Care" in the chapter "˜Cleaning'. For example, he doesn't mention the risk of damaging shoe through force drying (over radiators and near fires, etc) and I'm in two minds about his recommendation to put shoe trees into shoes immediately after wearing if they are "saturated with rain or snow". Surely this would trap moisture in the shoe, between the shoe tree and the leather? Personally, I tend to use newspaper which absorbs the moisture, and shoe trees later. I also question his advice to "polish them up with cream after every wearing, even if they appear to have lost none of their original gleam". I assume he means in a neutral, not coloured cream because that would be overdoing it. I'm really not a fan of cream - it paints the shoe in its colour. The same applies to polish - polishing them after every wear would only lead to polish build up. Personally, I'd use a neutral cream once every few months if I'm wearing my shoes regularly. Vass also recommends the use of an applicator brush to put polish on (except in the case of shoes with thin leather). I tend to use a soft cloth wrapped around one finger and work the polish into the shoe leather in small circles with a medium-firm pressure. You put just the right amount of polish onto the shoes and in the right place. It is too easy to overload the applicator brush with polish. I've also found that the brush can scratch away at the surface of the leather and disrupt the nice layers of polish. I would, of course, buff off excess polish with a horsehair brush and finish with a soft cloth. I was also surprised to see pictures of KIWI polish. I hate the stuff. It gives an artificially bright finish that does nothing to enhance the delicate layers of colour in good quality shoes.

My technique is:

1.\tEnsure the shoes are clean and free from dirt
2.\tWork in polish into the leather with a soft cloth wrapped around a fingertip
3.\tLeave overnight, then buff off and polish with a soft cloth.
4.\tRepeat exercise every two weeks if wearing the shoe regularly

The only time I might use an applicator brush is on stout country boots in a heavy grain.

Here's an example of my Barker "Hamilton" - about a year and half old. Used above Tech.

Any thoughts SF members?
post #19 of 29
i am going to also say that it is a great book for learning the process of making shoes. the illustrations and photographs shown make it very, very clear as to what exactly is going on.
post #20 of 29
I have it and think it is great, I bought mine from Amazon a few years ago and as I recall it isn't expensive. Get it!
post #21 of 29
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post
^^ What do you find lacking about it?

I'm not really looking to know every detail about how to craft shoes, just some insights.

But I'm hoping to get some educated advice on shoe maintenance and learn a little about the various shoe types, their history and intended uses.

Would you say it delivers on those subjects?

I have this book,am very fond of it, and recommend it to anyone who's interested in how corwainers make handmade shoes.

But if you're looking for a primer on shoe style identification and suggestions on what shoes traditionally go with what other pieces of a man's wardrobe, this book is not it. as alternates, I suggest Gentleman by Roetzel or Dressing The Man by Flusser as an initial primer. Roetzel is reproached for Church's-o-phelia and it's legitimate that Churches are over-represented in his book. But he still gives a good basic introduction to shoe styles and what each is usually worn with.
post #22 of 29
Thread Starter 
^^ I have Roetzel's book and should propably get Flusser's.

As some have said, "Handmade Shoes for Men" is pretty cheap, so I think I'll just get it.

Thank you for the replies.
post #23 of 29
I found this book in a furniture store a month back for $2 even.

With all the discussion, I thought some users might like some pictures,

I recommend.
post #24 of 29
I am just reading this book and am finding it very informative.

Are there any other publications that are similar to this that are available if so could you let me know so I can look into purchasing them
post #25 of 29
That book is very pleasant, lots of informations and I have on my bed-table and pretty often have again a look at it.

Another good book, but I am not sure it exists in english is the following :

Petit traité de haute cordonnerie, par Alain Madec (1999)
post #26 of 29
Thanks for that I'll see if I can get a cheap copy as long as it has some good pictures as my French was last practised at school
post #27 of 29
You can probably find it on ebay for 5 bucks. recommended.
post #28 of 29
Yes, I recommend it.
post #29 of 29
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
I have it in English and in French (gift from brother). Great book - discussion of various makers could benefit from an update now

The linked to version is from 2008. Is your version the one from 2000?
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