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The BlazerSuit™ ... Part Deux! - Page 2

post #16 of 233
I like the Berkeley look the best. Are those shoulders considered roped shoulders? I am still learning about shoulders on suits.
post #17 of 233
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post
I was distracted by the striped trou being worn without matching coat.
I think they guy is wearing a suit but took it off too the jacket to play the round. When it's over, he will put it back on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnFacconable View Post
Got it, the search continues. Hopefully the football resurgence will help to create a market for a Cal stripe tie without a logo.
This is not an "official" licenced Cal tie; I think it is just a rep stripe they found and bought because it had the right colors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Connemara View Post
Braided belt?
With the CA Tux? You bet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post
The dark buttons don't work well when the coat is worn as a non-suit.
Switch to the planned brown, or try a lighter, mottled blue or tan horn.
I am on the fence. I think the blue buttons look fine with the gray flannels, not so good with the khaki.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Concordia View Post
More than Golden Bale? Or perhaps there is no equivalent in that book?
You know, I did not look. My default position on Golden Bale is that I never want to pay for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemagic View Post
Are those shoulders considered roped shoulders? I am still learning about shoulders on suits.

Anti rope. That is a shirt-sleeve shoulder.
post #18 of 233
The shirt-sleeve shoulder seems to be rather anti-i-Gent, no? (That is, dramatic rather than subtle.)
post #19 of 233
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemagic View Post
The shirt-sleeve shoulder seems to be rather anti-i-Gent, no? (That is, dramatic rather than subtle.)

I don't think so. I think it is the least noticable shoulder. Roping is very dramatic, but it is not iGent. That is, it is not iGent according to the FNB meaning, which is "Whatever Manton wears."
post #20 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

This is not an "official" licenced Cal tie; I think it is just a rep stripe they found and bought because it had the right colors.


I knew it wasn't an official licensed tie, and don't think the bookstore or similar will ever have a nice logo-less tie in the right colors, but I do think that (like you see with other regional fan bases) that with the resurgence (surgence?) of the football program I've seen more people sporting Cal gear in and around the bay area and hopefully that will lead to some of the better men's stores sourcing ties.

I do think the California tux is a great look for this Blazersuit, as are the others.
post #21 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I don't think so. I think it is the least noticable shoulder. Roping is very dramatic, but it is not iGent. That is, it is not iGent according to the FNB meaning, which is "Whatever Manton wears."
When I use the term iGent, I am trying to reclaim it from the pejorative sense in which it was coined. Is that shoulder really less noticeable than a soft shoulder without that point sticking up from the edge? It kind of bugs me. I meant that it might not be iGent because that point is dramatic, not subtle like the iGent style.
post #22 of 233
Thread Starter 
I think that little puff is there because the sleevhead wadding has not yet broken down. It will happen.
post #23 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemagic View Post
I meant that it might not be iGent because that point is dramatic, not subtle like the iGent style.

When is iGent style subtle?
post #24 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I think that little puff is there because the sleevhead wadding has not yet broken down. It will happen.
I have not purchased many a sportcoat or suit because it had that little puff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
When is iGent style subtle?
MantonStyle is quite subtle.
post #25 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemagic View Post
I have not purchased many a sportcoat or suit because it had that little puff.

It depends on how the jacket is made. My jackets all have shirt-set sleeves; sometimes they start out with a little 'puff', but it settles after a while.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemagic View Post
MantonStyle is quite subtle.

True. But for that to be determinative, you have to assume Manton is the iGent phenomenon himself. I view him more as one of it's priests.
post #26 of 233
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemagic View Post
I have not purchased many a sportcoat or suit because it had that little puff.

Any inset sleeve, padded or not, wadded or not, will puff because of the way the seam is sewn. The shirt sleevehead is the only way to achieve a truly puffless sleeve. Here is what one looks like after some wear:

post #27 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Copying an old AA illustration (nothing more iGent than that!). Light gray flannels, white button down, orange knit tie:

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Missing something. Hmm. Perhaps you could retake with an open SAB over your shoulder?

I agree with Dopey, blue buttons make it look too much like an orphaned suit coat when worn as a blazer.
post #28 of 233
Shouldn't a spalla camicia not puff, even when new, because of the way the sleeve allowance is forced into the sleeve head?
post #29 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
You know, I did not look. My default position on Golden Bale is that I never want to pay for it.



.

A reasonable stance, especially since we're talking about a bit of a workhorse.

Still, now that I've got most of my winter staples in order, I think I might take a dip into that book just to see if it is worth the trouble.
post #30 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
Shouldn't a spalla camicia not puff, even when new, because of the way the sleeve allowance is forced into the sleeve head?
They still puff a bit in my experience. The puff is just a different puff.
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