Among WW Chan, Jantzen, Hemrajani,and Meinelt, who does good detail work re pattern matching, sleeve/front plackets, button quality, etc.? Also, I assume that WW Chan and Jantzen compare favourably to most decent RTW makers (Coles, H&K, Tyrwhitt) given the general mood of the forum. I'm interested as to how the latter two do... Cheers.
I can only speak about WW Chan and Hamarajani because I don't own any Jantzen or Meinelt shirts. Both Chan and Hamarajani do an excellent job in pattern matching. The yoke pattern matches the sleeve, the front and sleeve plackets match, all that good stuff. As for the button quality, if you request in the comment section that you want thick Mother of Pearl buttons then they will accomodate your requests. In fact, they'll accomodate just about anything you request. I currently have on order from Hamarajani a bunch of shirts with three button single cuffs, which was a special request that Joe was willing to accomodate. In fact, that's the one thing that I love about these guys, they'll do just about anything you request. Regarding to how they compare to the RTW makes, the following: to me (and most other forum members) the most important thing is fit, and that's what you get with the MTM shops, you get a perfect fit to your own peculiar specifications. I have a bunch of Tyrwhitts and I love the patterns, but what good are excellent patterns when the shoulder is hanging an inch over where it's supposed to be and the waist is blousy. I guess if you know you're going to be wearing a coat all day then it might not matter, but when the coat comes off and all you see is a shirt, a well fitting Chan, Jantzen or Hamarajani will look a lot better than an ill fitting H&K or Tyrwhitt.