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Horizontal buttonholes

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
I was noticing on my Etro shirt that the bottom buttonhole is horizontal. Both of my Faconnable shirts also have this feature. Is there any particular reason for this detail? Do Paul Smith shirts also have bottom buttonholes that are horizontal as well? What other brands do this?
post #2 of 7
Quote:
I was noticing on my Etro shirt that the bottom buttonhole is horizontal.  Both of my Faconnable shirts also have this feature.  Is there any particular reason for this detail?  Do Paul Smith shirts also have bottom buttonholes that are horizontal as well?  What other brands do this?
I've noticed the same thing on my Armani shirts (collezioni and borgonuovo) as well. No clue on why its like that though.
post #3 of 7
If it is vertical, then when you sew the button on you can have it not quite dead center without a problem. Use a Horizontal buttonhole on the sleeve gusset and you better nail the vertical placement perfectly - tells you that someone paid attention.
post #4 of 7
I have my own theory which I haven't verified with any shirtmakers. Firstly, it is done to prevent the left and the right shirt-body shifting 1/4" up- or down-wards thereby ruining the pattern matching. Secondly, since the last button is usually tucked inside your pants, it is done horizontally so that the buttonhole will not be folded or squashed. You will noticed that Zegna Napoli Couture have the second-to-last buttonhole done horizontally for this reason, as that's the very buttonhole tucked under your waistband. Most buttonholes measures 5/8" plus-or-minus 1/16", except in Borrelli when the buttonholes measure only 1/2" even though the buttons are very stacked MOP. However, even though most of these buttonholes are 'wide', shifting of fabric is almost non-existent (I think). So maybe my theory is wrong altogether. Does Mr. Kabbaz's shirts have this feature?
post #5 of 7
I misread - which is to say I just had a long conversation with my seamstresses about why I wanted the sleeve gusset hole horizontal instead of vertical. Naturlaut makes a good point and more or less the same one - a vertical hole requires a rough approximation, horizontal demands that you get it dead solid perfect. My Kabbaz's shirts utilize this on the sleeve for sure and the patterns match like they were one piece of fabric (damn him. he makes my RTW stuff look terrible).
post #6 of 7
I rely upon the single horizontal buttonhole at the bottom of the placket to let me know that there are no further buttons to button.  Because I start the buttoning from the top and work down, I've always appreciated this signal that my work is complete.  Clearly there are more technical reasons for the different buttonhole placement.
post #7 of 7
What I've heard is that it's a legacy of the traditional tailoring; the inside button of trouser was buttoned to the horizontal, bottom hole of the shirt so the shirt would stay tucked in. The practice is no longer used but shirt makers still adhere to the tradition. Or maybe it's just another marketing gimmick
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