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Brooks suits options - need advice

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Hello, I'm ordering some Brooks suits in the 1818 line, and need some help deciding which options to go with, namely 1) center vs. side vents and 2) pocket style. I think I'm most interested in opinions on the vent question. I am going with two-button coats, and pleated pants. Actually, I'm sort of wondering about the pleats, too. I did find a couple of posts in the archives related to this, so I got to read some opinions there. Opinions welcomed.
post #2 of 11
Quote:
Hello, I'm ordering some Brooks suits in the 1818 line, and need some help deciding which options to go with, namely 1) center vs. side vents and 2) pocket style. I think I'm most interested in opinions on the vent question. I am going with two-button coats, and pleated pants. Actually, I'm sort of wondering about the pleats, too. I did find a couple of posts in the archives related to this, so I got to read some opinions there. Opinions welcomed.
Is it possible for you to get forward pleats? If so, I'd advise them. For a long time, as I recall, that's all that Brooks was carrying (e.g., one of the few accounts from Southwick to do so), but now appear to be all reverse pleats. I don't think you can go wrong with either center vent or side vents. I have both in 2b and 3b styles.
post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Horace, Thanks for your response. I'm not sure about the pleats, but will try to find out. This is some sort of special order with a 120s wool (I think the 1818 is usually 110s). Edit: Just called the rep there, who thinks they're reverse pleats. He said we might be able to do forward, but it could delay the order.
post #4 of 11
I'd go with double vents--they just finish the jacket nicely.
post #5 of 11
deciding on all these things is the fun of ordering your suit to be made - it's how you get to express your style, etc. All of the options you're talking about pleats/flat, 1 vent/2vents, pocket style, are matters of personal preference, and as such, they should reflect *your* taste. I'd spend an hour or two looking around brooks, trying on examples of the different styles, look a lot at yourself in the mirror, and from that decide what you like best.
post #6 of 11
A lot of people here like the side vents because when you put your hands in your pockets your rear is not exposed. I self perfer center vents then side vents and last no vent at all. As for pleats i would go with pleats. I think they make the suit look nicer and dresser as flat front are somewhat associated with trendier clothiers, but if that what your going for by all means go with flat front (i'm guessing not by chosing brooks). There was a post about pleats awhile back that i started will try to find and post link later.
post #7 of 11
Quote:
A lot of people here like the side vents because when you put your hands in your pockets your rear is not exposed.  I self perfer center vents then side vents and last no vent at all.  As for pleats i would go with pleats.  I think they make the suit look nicer and dresser as flat front are somewhat associated with trendier clothiers, but if that what your going for by all means go with flat front (i'm guessing not by chosing brooks).  There was a post about pleats awhile back that i started will try to find and post link later.
plain front trousers may have a current connotation as trendy, but they've been sold by Brooks & JPress & indy haberdashers for ages.
post #8 of 11
flat front and center vent is more "traditional american" reverse pleats and double vent is more "english" forward pleats and no vent is more "continental" pick whichever one matches the style of the jacket best. Sack is trad american, hourglass is english, "boxy V" is continental. -boston
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
So after spending probably way too much time thinking about this, I ended up with pleats and double-vented. This is BB, but the 1818 is supposed to be "slightly shaped through the chest" so hopefully that's semi-congruous. I dunno.
post #10 of 11
Quote:
reverse pleats and double vent is more "english" forward pleats and no vent is more "continental" -boston
Backwards, I think. Typical SR will have forward pleats. Don't know what top-drawer Milanese or Neapolitan tailors do, but Italian-made RTW tends to have reverse pleats.
post #11 of 11
Though the issue of forward or reverse pleats comes down to stylistic preferences for most, there actually is a practical reason for going with reverse pleats: They stay nice and flat, with their sharp creases intact, for a far longer time than forward pleats. Reason is with forward pleats, each time you sit, the inside of the pleats naturally are forced open and ultimately becomes wrinkled, crumpled, and crinkled. After a few times, this action will cause the pleat to lose its, well, pleat, requiring pressing. With reverse pleats, since the opening is facing the opposite direction, there is much less abuse and stress applied to the actual pleat while seated, preserving its shape and integrity for a much longer time. I used to have forward pleats, but have since "reversed" my preference. Grayson
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