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Voxsartoria's Weekly WAYWRN Subjective and Totally Unfair Digest

A Y

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Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff
I wouldnt do a mohair blazer a duppioni silk one would be very stylish. Umm, err, I wonder if Scabal or Dormeuil dont carry something like this, give em a call. They may not sell toy uo directly but theyll check for you. Holland and Sherry do a very nice navy duppioni in their formal book, too dark for your needs but still very nice.

You might want to wait for Harrison's Sunbeam which wont look a thing like silk but will be a great summer blazer fabric.


Scabal sent me their dupioni samples, and the only blue was a navy. I'll keep an eye out for the Sunbeam. Thanks.

--Andre
 

eg1

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Originally Posted by james_timothy

By the way, eg1, I think the Brits get Morlocks, Americans get zombies:
tounge.gif


Could be -- I suppose we Canuckistanis, being neither fish nor fowl, must get our own nemesis -- giant, subterranean, undead beavers, perhaps?
eh.gif
 

Film Noir Buff

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Originally Posted by A Y
Scabal sent me their dupioni samples, and the only blue was a navy. I'll keep an eye out for the Sunbeam. Thanks. --Andre
Hmm, I like a challenge. Let me see if I can track down this make of silk for you. The colors were incredible. I might even get some for a bright blue jacket myself.
 

voxsartoria

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An abbreviated cross-post from WAYWRN today, just to muse over the last full-scale attempt to bring a bit of Apparel Arts into modern reality: Ralph Lauren's Purple Label line at its inception.

Faux Apparel Arts Tuesday:

At work one day this week for meetings.

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Ralph Lauren Purple Label (by Chester Barrie) wool and cashmere 3 roll 2 flannel chalk stripe suit (c.1995 from the first season of RLPL)

Closeup of the jacket:

475023210_NHhet-L.jpg


When RLPL was created, it was a big Ralph Lauren FU to the Italian RTW houses, particularly Armani. (Tom Ford is attempting to do the same now at a much lower level of impact.) The looks from the first few years, executed for him by the defunct Chester Barrie, borrowed heavily from 1930s Apparel Arts and, imho, Blades of Savile Row. Shoulders were often heavily padded and extended. There was often a slight bit of drape to the chest. Waists were nipped. Trousers were full. And in the first few years, RL seemed to spare no expense in the fabrics. RLPL reinvigorated RL as a RTW brand that could make some claims on a luxury product, an area in which RL had previously be faltering.

What we see today, of course, is heavily Italianized RLPL, with much of that unabashed Anglo-American design verve stunted. I sometimes read comments that Anglo-American style is sober and Italian more exuberant...but I think that the reverse was true for most of the past.


- B
 

voxsartoria

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Voxsartoria's Weekly WAYWRN Subjective and Totally Unfair Digest for the week ending 02/20/09.

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We end the week strongly with my favorite, another Agnelli inspiration look just like last week:

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Even though we should deduct for the plastic cup, we won't.


- B
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by yachtie
You should start a new thread.

What should I call it? Voxsartoria's Weekly WAYWRN Subjective and Totally Unfair Digest II?


- B
 

yachtie

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Sure- or just post "for the week of"
 

grimslade

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Vox, this thread has jumped the shark. Your attempt to return it to its roots will be unavailing.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by grimslade
Vox, this thread has jumped the shark. Your attempt to return it to its roots will be unavailing.

Next week will feature not only another update, but also the first edition of the monthly WAYWRN Looks Gone Wrong: Photographs Cropped to Protect the Guiltyâ„¢ post.

- B
 

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